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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Sorry for the double post. I posted initially in the what did you do to your Cherokee thread. Thought it might belong better here.
Last night was supposed to be turn the headlights on night. I got the relay box all wired in, loomed up, looking real good and for some reason my low beams weren't coming on. After poking around with the meter and finally having to cut off the shrink tube, I figured out that..
I have no power at the stock, driver side, low beam wire. It's the black wire with white tracer. Just to be sure i didn't get anything backwards, I checked the purple ground wire. No voltage at either. Red high beam wire has 12.6 volts like the rest of the jeep. I had cut the old connector off and soldered new wire on that runs to the relay. Pretty simple stuff here. I plugged my old sealed beam into the passenger side socket and it works just fine! Wtf??
Is there some reason that one side would not be getting power??? I tried leaving the sealed beam in on passenger side, thinking that dumb *** Chrysler might have wired them in series, but no avail. I'm stumped. Pretty bummed cause all my loom work to a lot of time, and to have to pull it out to run a wire to the passenger side socket is annoying. Plus, it freaks me out thinking there's a break in the wiring somewhere that I can't find.
Sorry for the double post. I posted initially in the what did you do to your Cherokee thread. Thought it might belong better here.
Last night was supposed to be turn the headlights on night. I got the relay box all wired in, loomed up, looking real good and for some reason my low beams weren't coming on. After poking around with the meter and finally having to cut off the shrink tube, I figured out that..
I have no power at the stock, driver side, low beam wire. It's the black wire with white tracer. Just to be sure i didn't get anything backwards, I checked the purple ground wire. No voltage at either. Red high beam wire has 12.6 volts like the rest of the jeep. I had cut the old connector off and soldered new wire on that runs to the relay. Pretty simple stuff here. I plugged my old sealed beam into the passenger side socket and it works just fine! Wtf??
Is there some reason that one side would not be getting power??? I tried leaving the sealed beam in on passenger side, thinking that dumb *** Chrysler might have wired them in series, but no avail. I'm stumped. Pretty bummed cause all my loom work to a lot of time, and to have to pull it out to run a wire to the passenger side socket is annoying. Plus, it freaks me out thinking there's a break in the wiring somewhere that I can't find.
Each filament has separate fuses. Driver's side low beam should be Fuse #4 in the junction block in the passenger footwell.
Has anyone ever changed out the internal slave cylinder on a 91 or later XJ? If so what is the best way to bleed this *****?
Really making me angry there is nothing online about it. I know all about external slave cylinders now. Also is the rear main seal a two piece or one piece? If its a two piece what does it take to install it?
Last edited by 91CherokeeX; 07-02-2016 at 11:05 AM.
Oh, don't overreact. Just replace them. Field experience trumps factory recommendations in the real world. Be sure you read the FSM correctly. IIRC, they recommended all but wires every 30K and wires at 60K......
Sometimes I drive 30k in a year. If I can find it cheap wouldn't coil packs be worth swapping along with the slight efficiency boost and high rpm gains?
Sometimes I drive 30k in a year. If I can find it cheap wouldn't coil packs be worth swapping along with the slight efficiency boost and high rpm gains?
Whatever. Geez, coil packs never have issues.........easy to diagnose also.......
Sometimes I drive 30k in a year. If I can find it cheap wouldn't coil packs be worth swapping along with the slight efficiency boost and high rpm gains?
I don't think it's worth it. You'd have to do so much work in order to change it over to coil. Just do a tune up and leave it be. It's an easy and cheap thing to do. I don't really see you gaining much if anything from coil pack
Sometimes I drive 30k in a year. If I can find it cheap wouldn't coil packs be worth swapping along with the slight efficiency boost and high rpm gains?
An old man is trying to sell his Comanche Metric Ton. Its a 1991, HO 4.0 6 cylinder auto with the no slip Dana 44 rear and dana 30 front. It has 90k miles and is in show room, mint condition. He has upgraded to a heavy duty radiator and water pump, larger air intake and a high flow catalytic converter. My question is this. Whats it worth
An old man is trying to sell his Comanche Metric Ton. Its a 1991, HO 4.0 6 cylinder auto with the no slip Dana 44 rear and dana 30 front. It has 90k miles and is in show room, mint condition. He has upgraded to a heavy duty radiator and water pump, larger air intake and a high flow catalytic converter. My question is this. Whats it worth
1) Metric Tonne
2) How much are you willing to pay? That's what it's worth.
The Comanche market is extremely volatile. They go up and down in value every few months in this area, from $1k to $6k for a decent one. If that one is as nice as it looks, and if I wanted another Comanche, I'd pay up to $6k if I really wanted it. But that doesn't mean other people will value it the same way, and it doesn't mean he won't take less.
An old man is trying to sell his Comanche Metric Ton. Its a 1991, HO 4.0 6 cylinder auto with the no slip Dana 44 rear and dana 30 front. It has 90k miles and is in show room, mint condition. He has upgraded to a heavy duty radiator and water pump, larger air intake and a high flow catalytic converter. My question is this. Whats it worth
A fair bit. Wouldn't be surprised to see it move at $8000-10000 depending on where you are.
09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
