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CF Veteran
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for the input fellas. Emailed Stanley and he said he would send me a new one to replace my busted one. I emailed him just to get another torx screw sicne I can fix it myself.
Junior Member
Snap On and Mac are definitely higher quality than Craftsman, HF, etc. For example, their ratchets have more teeth, which means they work in tighter areas.
But the tools still break, and they aren't nearly as ready to get replaced as Craftsman. That's where I stand on the issue. I buy Snap On at garage sales. I go to Sears if I'm paying full price.
But the tools still break, and they aren't nearly as ready to get replaced as Craftsman. That's where I stand on the issue. I buy Snap On at garage sales. I go to Sears if I'm paying full price.
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
No, I don't lick fish.
Stanley. WalMart is open 24/7
lol... or not.
CF Veteran
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Location: Quebec
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i get a ticking sound from the distributor (pretty sure it's the distributor, when I put my hand on it I can feel a slight pulse at the same rate it clicks)
is it faulty or is that normal/can be tolerated? i am not the one who replaced it last time, it was done by the shop at the same as wires,cap,plugs and never noticed if it was always this way or if it just started.
is it faulty or is that normal/can be tolerated? i am not the one who replaced it last time, it was done by the shop at the same as wires,cap,plugs and never noticed if it was always this way or if it just started.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
i get a ticking sound from the distributor (pretty sure it's the distributor, when I put my hand on it I can feel a slight pulse at the same rate it clicks)
is it faulty or is that normal/can be tolerated? i am not the one who replaced it last time, it was done by the shop at the same as wires,cap,plugs and never noticed if it was always this way or if it just started.
is it faulty or is that normal/can be tolerated? i am not the one who replaced it last time, it was done by the shop at the same as wires,cap,plugs and never noticed if it was always this way or if it just started.
Does the housing wobble?
What's it look like inside?
CF Veteran
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
all i can say is the housing doesn't wobble and seems tight. when i put my hand on it everything is tight, it seemed to come from the inside, or at least from something in contact with it.
::CF Moderator::
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
i honestly have no idea. i know my way around many things on my XJ but i've never touched the distributor/cap/wire/plugs. it was done by a shop when i first got the jeep and didn't know how a car worked. only removing the wires scares me as I venture into the unknown and have no idea about the right/wrong order.
all i can say is the housing doesn't wobble and seems tight. when i put my hand on it everything is tight, it seemed to come from the inside, or at least from something in contact with it.
all i can say is the housing doesn't wobble and seems tight. when i put my hand on it everything is tight, it seemed to come from the inside, or at least from something in contact with it.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
alright i'll look into that tonight, didn't cross my mind this way could work. thanks! i'll snap a quick video if I can think of it. at first I thought it was the ticking from my cracked manifold, but it does indeed come from the distributor side of the engine
CF Veteran
Sorry, you might have put me on a question rationing plan... but so far you guys have been a great wealth of info and I'm learning a lot. Just recently I've started getting a short, quick jerking while driving. It occurs most noticeably between 40-60mph under light acceleration. As soon as I let off or apply more than what it takes to simply maintain speed the jerking/hesitating stops. It's not constant and it fluctuates in intensity. I've tried downshifting to 3rd and the same phenomenon. The RPMS seem to stay steady and it only happens when the torque converter locks. Moderate to heavy acceleration no problems and the shifting between gears feels just as solid as before. If my fluid is a bit over max on the dipstick could that cause it? I've been reading maybe TPS or ignition. I haven't gotten around to a full ignition tune up but spark plugs are new as of a month or so ago. Leaving for work trips starting next Tuesday so I won't have time to order and receive parts and do that until I get back on one of my breaks. Thanks in advance!
Edit: '99 216kmi keep forgetting.
Edit: '99 216kmi keep forgetting.
Last edited by rcguymike; 07-06-2016 at 08:15 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Sorry, you might have put me on a question rationing plan... but so far you guys have been a great wealth of info and I'm learning a lot. Just recently I've started getting a short, quick jerking while driving. It occurs most noticeably between 40-60mph under light acceleration. As soon as I let off or apply more than what it takes to simply maintain speed the jerking/hesitating stops. It's not constant and it fluctuates in intensity. I've tried downshifting to 3rd and the same phenomenon. The RPMS seem to stay steady and it only happens when the torque converter locks. Moderate to heavy acceleration no problems and the shifting between gears feels just as solid as before. If my fluid is a bit over max on the dipstick could that cause it? I've been reading maybe TPS or ignition. I haven't gotten around to a full ignition tune up but spark plugs are new as of a month or so ago. Leaving for work trips starting next Tuesday so I won't have time to order and receive parts and do that until I get back on one of my breaks. Thanks in advance!
Edit: '99 216kmi keep forgetting.
Edit: '99 216kmi keep forgetting.
Ever had a stereo with a sketchy volume ****? How in that sweet spot you always turn it up to, it's really crackly and you've gotta mess with it to get it to stop, or just turn it up more?
The TPS is identical to a volume ****. But instead of attenuating a sound into an amplifier, the PCM reads it as throttle position.
You can test this with an analog multimeter. Hook it up an start working the throttle. You should see the needle increasing (or decreasing, depending on which pins you connect), and then it will suddenly spaz out at a certain spot. Same thing will show up with an OBD-II scanner, but be throttle percent instead of a voltage or resistance.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Throttle position sensor. Ever had a stereo with a sketchy volume ****? How in that sweet spot you always turn it up to, it's really crackly and you've gotta mess with it to get it to stop, or just turn it up more? The TPS is identical to a volume ****. But instead of attenuating a sound into an amplifier, the PCM reads it as throttle position. You can test this with an analog multimeter. Hook it up an start working the throttle. You should see the needle increasing (or decreasing, depending on which pins you connect), and then it will suddenly spaz out at a certain spot. Same thing will show up with an OBD-II scanner, but be throttle percent instead of a voltage or resistance.
CF Veteran
Throttle position sensor.
Ever had a stereo with a sketchy volume ****? How in that sweet spot you always turn it up to, it's really crackly and you've gotta mess with it to get it to stop, or just turn it up more?
The TPS is identical to a volume ****. But instead of attenuating a sound into an amplifier, the PCM reads it as throttle position.
You can test this with an analog multimeter. Hook it up an start working the throttle. You should see the needle increasing (or decreasing, depending on which pins you connect), and then it will suddenly spaz out at a certain spot. Same thing will show up with an OBD-II scanner, but be throttle percent instead of a voltage or resistance.
Ever had a stereo with a sketchy volume ****? How in that sweet spot you always turn it up to, it's really crackly and you've gotta mess with it to get it to stop, or just turn it up more?
The TPS is identical to a volume ****. But instead of attenuating a sound into an amplifier, the PCM reads it as throttle position.
You can test this with an analog multimeter. Hook it up an start working the throttle. You should see the needle increasing (or decreasing, depending on which pins you connect), and then it will suddenly spaz out at a certain spot. Same thing will show up with an OBD-II scanner, but be throttle percent instead of a voltage or resistance.
CF Veteran
That's what I was hoping/figuring. You guys had me test it a few pages ago and the readings seemed a bit odd but still within FSM specs...Now Mopar only right? No autozone lifetime warranty kind? Nice thing is they have it in stock, the dealer might but I'll have to check.
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II