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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:49 PM
  #55096  
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Thanks for the input fellas. Emailed Stanley and he said he would send me a new one to replace my busted one. I emailed him just to get another torx screw sicne I can fix it myself.

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Old 07-05-2016, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Snap On and Mac are definitely higher quality than Craftsman, HF, etc. For example, their ratchets have more teeth, which means they work in tighter areas.

But the tools still break, and they aren't nearly as ready to get replaced as Craftsman. That's where I stand on the issue. I buy Snap On at garage sales. I go to Sears if I'm paying full price.
Well I worked in a shop so every week snap on mat co Mac and Cornwell came to my shop so it was easy to replace broken items and even now I'm friends with my snap on guy and he will meet me anyware to replace a broken tool tho I've only ever broken the 2 but too each their own buddy
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Old 07-05-2016, 10:12 PM
  #55098  
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Originally Posted by Nasty4.0
I'm friends with my snap on guy and he will meet me anyware to replace a broken tool
And that's exactly why I bring it up. Most people don't have that kind of access.

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Old 07-06-2016, 12:15 AM
  #55099  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Anything but smooth rotors will also capture mud/sand etc and trap it between the pad and the rotor. That will wear the brakes faster. Metal is quite soft compared to sand and small rocks.
Yes. But the original statement was in reference to wet-weather performance. I just don't see any scientific fact to back those statements up. I whole-heartedly agree though that mud/rocks/dirt can get caked in there and wear them down. But that's why I avoid mud when possible except on rare occasion and when I do, I wash it off when I'm done with the trails. I find the ones who don't practice this, usually end up with bushings, bearings, and seals that wear faster.

Originally Posted by cruiser54
No left or right. Both are designed for right hand driving and not blinding oncoming traffic.
lol... I wondered about that when I saw the diffuser. Too bad... 'cause those are great looking lenses.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Craftsman. You can go to Sears any time
Stanley. WalMart is open 24/7



Originally Posted by Joecam18
Thanks for the input fellas. Emailed Stanley and he said he would send me a new one to replace my busted one. I emailed him just to get another torx screw sicne I can fix it myself.


lol... or not.
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:07 PM
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i get a ticking sound from the distributor (pretty sure it's the distributor, when I put my hand on it I can feel a slight pulse at the same rate it clicks)

is it faulty or is that normal/can be tolerated? i am not the one who replaced it last time, it was done by the shop at the same as wires,cap,plugs and never noticed if it was always this way or if it just started.
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Cane
i get a ticking sound from the distributor (pretty sure it's the distributor, when I put my hand on it I can feel a slight pulse at the same rate it clicks)

is it faulty or is that normal/can be tolerated? i am not the one who replaced it last time, it was done by the shop at the same as wires,cap,plugs and never noticed if it was always this way or if it just started.
Is there a gasket under it?

Does the housing wobble?

What's it look like inside?
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Old 07-06-2016, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Is there a gasket under it?

Does the housing wobble?

What's it look like inside?
i honestly have no idea. i know my way around many things on my XJ but i've never touched the distributor/cap/wire/plugs. it was done by a shop when i first got the jeep and didn't know how a car worked. only removing the wires scares me as I venture into the unknown and have no idea about the right/wrong order.

all i can say is the housing doesn't wobble and seems tight. when i put my hand on it everything is tight, it seemed to come from the inside, or at least from something in contact with it.
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Old 07-06-2016, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cane
i honestly have no idea. i know my way around many things on my XJ but i've never touched the distributor/cap/wire/plugs. it was done by a shop when i first got the jeep and didn't know how a car worked. only removing the wires scares me as I venture into the unknown and have no idea about the right/wrong order.

all i can say is the housing doesn't wobble and seems tight. when i put my hand on it everything is tight, it seemed to come from the inside, or at least from something in contact with it.
Leave the wires connected. Remove the cap and look inside.
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Old 07-06-2016, 03:32 PM
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alright i'll look into that tonight, didn't cross my mind this way could work. thanks! i'll snap a quick video if I can think of it. at first I thought it was the ticking from my cracked manifold, but it does indeed come from the distributor side of the engine
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:13 PM
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Sorry, you might have put me on a question rationing plan... but so far you guys have been a great wealth of info and I'm learning a lot. Just recently I've started getting a short, quick jerking while driving. It occurs most noticeably between 40-60mph under light acceleration. As soon as I let off or apply more than what it takes to simply maintain speed the jerking/hesitating stops. It's not constant and it fluctuates in intensity. I've tried downshifting to 3rd and the same phenomenon. The RPMS seem to stay steady and it only happens when the torque converter locks. Moderate to heavy acceleration no problems and the shifting between gears feels just as solid as before. If my fluid is a bit over max on the dipstick could that cause it? I've been reading maybe TPS or ignition. I haven't gotten around to a full ignition tune up but spark plugs are new as of a month or so ago. Leaving for work trips starting next Tuesday so I won't have time to order and receive parts and do that until I get back on one of my breaks. Thanks in advance!

Edit: '99 216kmi keep forgetting.

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Old 07-06-2016, 11:05 PM
  #55106  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Sorry, you might have put me on a question rationing plan... but so far you guys have been a great wealth of info and I'm learning a lot. Just recently I've started getting a short, quick jerking while driving. It occurs most noticeably between 40-60mph under light acceleration. As soon as I let off or apply more than what it takes to simply maintain speed the jerking/hesitating stops. It's not constant and it fluctuates in intensity. I've tried downshifting to 3rd and the same phenomenon. The RPMS seem to stay steady and it only happens when the torque converter locks. Moderate to heavy acceleration no problems and the shifting between gears feels just as solid as before. If my fluid is a bit over max on the dipstick could that cause it? I've been reading maybe TPS or ignition. I haven't gotten around to a full ignition tune up but spark plugs are new as of a month or so ago. Leaving for work trips starting next Tuesday so I won't have time to order and receive parts and do that until I get back on one of my breaks. Thanks in advance!

Edit: '99 216kmi keep forgetting.
Throttle position sensor.

Ever had a stereo with a sketchy volume ****? How in that sweet spot you always turn it up to, it's really crackly and you've gotta mess with it to get it to stop, or just turn it up more?

The TPS is identical to a volume ****. But instead of attenuating a sound into an amplifier, the PCM reads it as throttle position.

You can test this with an analog multimeter. Hook it up an start working the throttle. You should see the needle increasing (or decreasing, depending on which pins you connect), and then it will suddenly spaz out at a certain spot. Same thing will show up with an OBD-II scanner, but be throttle percent instead of a voltage or resistance.
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Old 07-07-2016, 05:59 AM
  #55107  
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Originally Posted by salad
Throttle position sensor. Ever had a stereo with a sketchy volume ****? How in that sweet spot you always turn it up to, it's really crackly and you've gotta mess with it to get it to stop, or just turn it up more? The TPS is identical to a volume ****. But instead of attenuating a sound into an amplifier, the PCM reads it as throttle position. You can test this with an analog multimeter. Hook it up an start working the throttle. You should see the needle increasing (or decreasing, depending on which pins you connect), and then it will suddenly spaz out at a certain spot. Same thing will show up with an OBD-II scanner, but be throttle percent instead of a voltage or resistance.
excellent comparison.
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:10 AM
  #55108  
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Originally Posted by salad
Throttle position sensor.

Ever had a stereo with a sketchy volume ****? How in that sweet spot you always turn it up to, it's really crackly and you've gotta mess with it to get it to stop, or just turn it up more?

The TPS is identical to a volume ****. But instead of attenuating a sound into an amplifier, the PCM reads it as throttle position.

You can test this with an analog multimeter. Hook it up an start working the throttle. You should see the needle increasing (or decreasing, depending on which pins you connect), and then it will suddenly spaz out at a certain spot. Same thing will show up with an OBD-II scanner, but be throttle percent instead of a voltage or resistance.
Originally Posted by XJwonders
excellent comparison.
That's what I was hoping/figuring. You guys had me test it a few pages ago and the readings seemed a bit odd but still within FSM specs...Now Mopar only right? No autozone lifetime warranty kind? Nice thing is they have it in stock, the dealer might but I'll have to check.
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Old 07-07-2016, 10:56 AM
  #55109  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
That's what I was hoping/figuring. You guys had me test it a few pages ago and the readings seemed a bit odd but still within FSM specs...Now Mopar only right? No autozone lifetime warranty kind? Nice thing is they have it in stock, the dealer might but I'll have to check.
Would a ZJ have the same TPS? I got one of those laying around...lol
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:17 AM
  #55110  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Would a ZJ have the same TPS? I got one of those laying around...lol
Rock Auto shows the same part numbers for '97+ XJs and ZJs.
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