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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Old fart with a wrench
If you're asking me, I'd buy 235/75R15 Cooper Discoverer AT3s or 245s if you've got the room. The 245s are about 3/8" wider than what you've got already. The Coopers are All-Terrain tires you can run all year and are great in the snow. They wear very well and are cheaper then the "Big Three." They are also quiet in the road.
JMHO however. The problem we've got is now most tire shops won't mount any tire that's not recommended for your car. I'm assuming the 235s are what they allow because 225s are the stock tire. You can buy anything you want, they just won't mount it. Insurance regulations dictate they have to pay for any damages to your vehicle caused by improper tires.
BTW, the Coopers were recommended by the guys on this forum and I love them. I'm running 245/70R16s on my 2000 WJ. I tend to wear out tires quickly delivering newspapers because of all the low speed maneuvering I do, it's like I really need a "suicide ****" on my steering wheel. This set has been thru 1 winter and this summer and I think they'll go another winter before I need to replace them.
JMHO however. The problem we've got is now most tire shops won't mount any tire that's not recommended for your car. I'm assuming the 235s are what they allow because 225s are the stock tire. You can buy anything you want, they just won't mount it. Insurance regulations dictate they have to pay for any damages to your vehicle caused by improper tires.
BTW, the Coopers were recommended by the guys on this forum and I love them. I'm running 245/70R16s on my 2000 WJ. I tend to wear out tires quickly delivering newspapers because of all the low speed maneuvering I do, it's like I really need a "suicide ****" on my steering wheel. This set has been thru 1 winter and this summer and I think they'll go another winter before I need to replace them.
Last edited by dave1123; 07-31-2016 at 05:13 PM.
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Old fart with a wrench
AH, good point! That also gets rid of the stagnant fluid in the caliper that's been heated. Why didn't I think of that? Must be I'm getting senile.
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Year: 1992 2dr Sport 2wd & 1992 4dr Laredo 4x4
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter H.O.
'92 XJ, blower/fan not working intermittently. fuse good, connection to blower good, is all or nothing, works one day & then not the next. It's HOT my lady not happy with out A/C. Any sage wisdom?
1996 Cherokee country.
Will run in normal temp for awhile then runs dangerously hot. 1.5 hour drive normal temps for an hour then sky rockets. Running heat cools it down, but not me. New thermo, water pump, fan clutch. What else should I replace to keep temps down? Recently started leaking coolant from passenger side top under hose running to water pump. Hose is good, could it be radiator seal?
Will run in normal temp for awhile then runs dangerously hot. 1.5 hour drive normal temps for an hour then sky rockets. Running heat cools it down, but not me. New thermo, water pump, fan clutch. What else should I replace to keep temps down? Recently started leaking coolant from passenger side top under hose running to water pump. Hose is good, could it be radiator seal?
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: upstate, New York
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1991 I6 4.0 HO
I have an 88 Cherokee Ltd.
One of the leaves on the passenger side leaf pack is broken an it sages on that side.
What is the cheapest fix, if any, without buying new ones ?
I don't live too far from a pick and pull with cheep prices. No Cherokee's there at the moment though. I heard of some people making bastard packs from other vehicles, but I never found instructions.
One of the leaves on the passenger side leaf pack is broken an it sages on that side.
What is the cheapest fix, if any, without buying new ones ?
I don't live too far from a pick and pull with cheep prices. No Cherokee's there at the moment though. I heard of some people making bastard packs from other vehicles, but I never found instructions.
Last edited by Danny74; 07-31-2016 at 06:40 PM.
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I have an 88 Cherokee Ltd.
One of the leaves on the passenger side leaf pack is broken an it sages on that side.
What is the cheapest fix, if any, without buying new ones ?
I don't live too far from a pick and pull with cheep prices. No Cherokee's there at the moment though. I heard of some people making bastard packs from other vehicles, but I never found instructions.
One of the leaves on the passenger side leaf pack is broken an it sages on that side.
What is the cheapest fix, if any, without buying new ones ?
I don't live too far from a pick and pull with cheep prices. No Cherokee's there at the moment though. I heard of some people making bastard packs from other vehicles, but I never found instructions.
Cough up the $90 for a new pack, or replace both packs at the same time and get another 28 years of use out of them
New Spark Plugs
I just recently put new ngk spark plugs in my 4.0 cherokee sport. When attempting to start it up it ran really rough for a while and then died. Now it cranks over but won't start up. I checked to make sure the boots were seated over the plugs and everything was lined up nicely. I also just recently replaced the fuel injectors. Not sure if that's also adding to the problem. Anyone have this problem before?
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I just recently put new ngk spark plugs in my 4.0 cherokee sport. When attempting to start it up it ran really rough for a while and then died. Now it cranks over but won't start up. I checked to make sure the boots were seated over the plugs and everything was lined up nicely. I also just recently replaced the fuel injectors. Not sure if that's also adding to the problem. Anyone have this problem before?
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Location: Longview, TX
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre
No, just compress the pistons and the fluid will return to the master cylinder. If both are off, support the other one just in case so you don't pop the piston out of it. They are supposedly separate systems, but I wouldn't trust them not to bleed across. If using a c-clamp, don't press on the bottom of the piston, but use an old pad to press on. I had a piston set up one time and pressed too hard on the bottom of the piston and blew it out! Cracked!
Beach Bum
I just recently put new ngk spark plugs in my 4.0 cherokee sport. When attempting to start it up it ran really rough for a while and then died. Now it cranks over but won't start up. I checked to make sure the boots were seated over the plugs and everything was lined up nicely. I also just recently replaced the fuel injectors. Not sure if that's also adding to the problem. Anyone have this problem before?
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Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hey, guys hopefully someone knows whats up. I got my manifold all put back together and it runs like a champ... when it starts. Right now it happens only when cold starting (sitting for a few hours). I can sometimes get it to start on the first try but it runs terrible for a few seconds and definitely can get it running by the second try. I put a dealer CPS and dealer CPS bolts on while I had easy access to it but I'm not sure I torqued it right. Did I mess up something with the CPS or is my Jeep finally feeling what it's like to run the way it's supposed to.
Fuel at prime: 40psi and didn't leak down beyond 36psi after five minutes. Should I perform a longer leak down?
Thanks for any help
EDIT: Upon doing a little research, it looks like I may have a leaky injector or the fuel is leaking back into the tank (check valve?) I'll start investigating that unless someone has a different idea
Fuel at prime: 40psi and didn't leak down beyond 36psi after five minutes. Should I perform a longer leak down?
Thanks for any help
EDIT: Upon doing a little research, it looks like I may have a leaky injector or the fuel is leaking back into the tank (check valve?) I'll start investigating that unless someone has a different idea