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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:01 PM
  #55486  
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If you're asking me, I'd buy 235/75R15 Cooper Discoverer AT3s or 245s if you've got the room. The 245s are about 3/8" wider than what you've got already. The Coopers are All-Terrain tires you can run all year and are great in the snow. They wear very well and are cheaper then the "Big Three." They are also quiet in the road.

JMHO however. The problem we've got is now most tire shops won't mount any tire that's not recommended for your car. I'm assuming the 235s are what they allow because 225s are the stock tire. You can buy anything you want, they just won't mount it. Insurance regulations dictate they have to pay for any damages to your vehicle caused by improper tires.

BTW, the Coopers were recommended by the guys on this forum and I love them. I'm running 245/70R16s on my 2000 WJ. I tend to wear out tires quickly delivering newspapers because of all the low speed maneuvering I do, it's like I really need a "suicide ****" on my steering wheel. This set has been thru 1 winter and this summer and I think they'll go another winter before I need to replace them.

Last edited by dave1123; 07-31-2016 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:02 PM
  #55487  
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Originally Posted by dave1123
No, just compress the pistons and the fluid will return to the master cylinder.
What I do is crack the bleeder open when compressing the piston so any crud in there doesn't get pushed back up into the master cylinder.
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:17 PM
  #55488  
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AH, good point! That also gets rid of the stagnant fluid in the caliper that's been heated. Why didn't I think of that? Must be I'm getting senile.
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:33 PM
  #55489  
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Angry 1991 Jeep Cherokee XJ Rear Bumper Assemble

Does anyone know where I can get 2 rear bumper offset brackets and 2 rear energy absorption braces?
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:34 PM
  #55490  
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'92 XJ, blower/fan not working intermittently. fuse good, connection to blower good, is all or nothing, works one day & then not the next. It's HOT my lady not happy with out A/C. Any sage wisdom?
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:43 PM
  #55491  
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1996 Cherokee country.
Will run in normal temp for awhile then runs dangerously hot. 1.5 hour drive normal temps for an hour then sky rockets. Running heat cools it down, but not me. New thermo, water pump, fan clutch. What else should I replace to keep temps down? Recently started leaking coolant from passenger side top under hose running to water pump. Hose is good, could it be radiator seal?
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:52 PM
  #55492  
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im gonna say radiator is bad
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:37 PM
  #55493  
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I have an 88 Cherokee Ltd.
One of the leaves on the passenger side leaf pack is broken an it sages on that side.
What is the cheapest fix, if any, without buying new ones ?
I don't live too far from a pick and pull with cheep prices. No Cherokee's there at the moment though. I heard of some people making bastard packs from other vehicles, but I never found instructions.

Last edited by Danny74; 07-31-2016 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:18 PM
  #55494  
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Originally Posted by Danny74
I have an 88 Cherokee Ltd.
One of the leaves on the passenger side leaf pack is broken an it sages on that side.
What is the cheapest fix, if any, without buying new ones ?
I don't live too far from a pick and pull with cheep prices. No Cherokee's there at the moment though. I heard of some people making bastard packs from other vehicles, but I never found instructions.
You can't bastard pack one side of your vehicle and expect it to ride predictably. Also, a bastard pack nets 3-6" depending on the donor leafs.

Cough up the $90 for a new pack, or replace both packs at the same time and get another 28 years of use out of them
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:12 PM
  #55495  
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Default New Spark Plugs

I just recently put new ngk spark plugs in my 4.0 cherokee sport. When attempting to start it up it ran really rough for a while and then died. Now it cranks over but won't start up. I checked to make sure the boots were seated over the plugs and everything was lined up nicely. I also just recently replaced the fuel injectors. Not sure if that's also adding to the problem. Anyone have this problem before?
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:44 PM
  #55496  
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Originally Posted by 00MudJeep
I just recently put new ngk spark plugs in my 4.0 cherokee sport. When attempting to start it up it ran really rough for a while and then died. Now it cranks over but won't start up. I checked to make sure the boots were seated over the plugs and everything was lined up nicely. I also just recently replaced the fuel injectors. Not sure if that's also adding to the problem. Anyone have this problem before?
Haven't had an NGK fail on me in 46 years.
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:25 PM
  #55497  
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Originally Posted by dave1123
No, just compress the pistons and the fluid will return to the master cylinder. If both are off, support the other one just in case so you don't pop the piston out of it. They are supposedly separate systems, but I wouldn't trust them not to bleed across. If using a c-clamp, don't press on the bottom of the piston, but use an old pad to press on. I had a piston set up one time and pressed too hard on the bottom of the piston and blew it out! Cracked!
Thanks man, I got it back on I felt weird not taking the time to put on new pads as well, but I don't know anything about brakes anyways lol
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:08 AM
  #55498  
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Originally Posted by 00MudJeep
I just recently put new ngk spark plugs in my 4.0 cherokee sport. When attempting to start it up it ran really rough for a while and then died. Now it cranks over but won't start up. I checked to make sure the boots were seated over the plugs and everything was lined up nicely. I also just recently replaced the fuel injectors. Not sure if that's also adding to the problem. Anyone have this problem before?
Most likely, spark plug wires are connected incorrectly. The Hanes manual has the firing order listed wrong.
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Old 08-01-2016, 07:18 AM
  #55499  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Most likely, spark plug wires are connected incorrectly. The Hanes manual has the firing order listed wrong.
probably. And for reference, the proper firing sequence is 1 5 3 6 2 4. Name:  image-2491625004.jpg
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Last edited by XJwonders; 08-01-2016 at 07:20 AM.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:21 AM
  #55500  
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Originally Posted by NewbJeep
Hey, guys hopefully someone knows whats up. I got my manifold all put back together and it runs like a champ... when it starts. Right now it happens only when cold starting (sitting for a few hours). I can sometimes get it to start on the first try but it runs terrible for a few seconds and definitely can get it running by the second try. I put a dealer CPS and dealer CPS bolts on while I had easy access to it but I'm not sure I torqued it right. Did I mess up something with the CPS or is my Jeep finally feeling what it's like to run the way it's supposed to.

Fuel at prime: 40psi and didn't leak down beyond 36psi after five minutes. Should I perform a longer leak down?

Thanks for any help

EDIT: Upon doing a little research, it looks like I may have a leaky injector or the fuel is leaking back into the tank (check valve?) I'll start investigating that unless someone has a different idea
So I'm trying to find this leaky injector. Not sure on fuel theory though. To test whether or not it's just an o-ring, do I pull the rail and set the injector tips in some plastic bottles, turn key on engine off and see which one is leaking? If none of them are, is it an o-ring issue? Hate to replace those expensive buggers if it's just a cracked o-ring.
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