19kiloxj

awesome thx dukie

freshpow

well thx for offering your knowledge...
can you suggest an alternate part to the 50 dollars that jeep dealers want for a tem-sending-unit for a 2.8 Liter XJ from 1986 ?
the typical Zone Napa etc suggest a dozen of them, but which one will match my OEM gauge is a complete guess .
the oem jeep part is # 3001543
thx a bunch !

dukie564

"Coolant Temperature Sending Unit"

BWD Part# WT7236 or Echlin Part# ECH TS7236 (if you have the dummy light)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...650070933____#
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50038+2038004

Echlin Part# ECH TS6666 (if you have the actual temperature gauge)
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50038+2038004

TrollHammer

Has anyone had any experience with 4.10 or 4.56 gears and an AW4 transmission when running 34" tires?

I currently have stock gears (3.90 or something?) and have no problem with rather steep hills when using 4Lo. I have seen lots of comments on gearing and manual transmissions but not autos. My big concern is gaining better control. I will be putting an 8.8 that's already geared for 4.10 later this year, and trying to figure out if I should leave it there or go to 4.56. Going from 3.90 to 4.56 seems like quite a jump to me when I can already climb just fine, and I could save a bit of money if I only have to regear the front axle. Will the 1-2 lurch be worse or better with higher gears?

Skyline

How can I tell which hub assembly is the one that is bad? if it has no play in it is there a way a can look at my bearings and see if it is the front ones or just the right ones etc.

Also how do you stop a differential fluid leak?

Thanks,
Jon

LoveMy89Anya

how come no one is answering my question?


also, when wiring an xj with a rear windshield wiper, is it possible to wire the squirter as well as the wiper motor itself into the controls for the front ones? id rather not have a seperate switch as every time iv ever used my normal windshield wipers, iv missed having a rear one as well.

cwabney

Stopping the diff fluid leak is "easy." Drain the diff & replace the gasket. You should be able to get a new one online, otherwise you can make your own gasket w/ RTV. Then refill the diff with new fluid. Go heavy on the RTV and be sure to get plenty on both sides of the bolt holes, all the way around the diff. I'd avoid ordering the gasket online, since you can't check that it fits your particular axel w/o removing it from the packaging, by which time you can't return it.

As for the bearing, my experience has been they have a grinding noise when turned if they have worn out. You can prob find a YouTube video showing this with audio.

Jeep sages welcome to elaborate or correct on this posting.

FMXFreak

The bad wheel bearings will cause heat and slow the turning as well as noise (mentioned above). I figured out which of mine were bad by jacking it up and turning them by hand. If bad enough they will grind loudly and won't spin without a good amount of force.

Sent from my iPod touch using CherokeeFM

Jeep95

You can also grab top and bottom of wheel and push the bottom and pull the top making sure that nothing else is moving also.

Jeep95

Do you mean pushing the button for the aquifers in the front and having the rear come on too?

LoveMy89Anya

yes, basically having the fluid dispenser as well as the wiper arm itself wired into the front controls so that they all come on at once. and also, could u take a look at my previous question a few pages back?

Jeep95

Ok I'd honestly wouldn't like that but that's me. Anyhow you can run powerwires from the front wipers to the rear. And do the same for the washer motor. And just make sure the power hooks up to the rear after the switch.

Jeep95

One thing I wouldn't ever give full out pressure on the electrical components. Or on the engine I've done it before and it took forever to diagnose but that was on a different and it was already not running great. Even tho that info don't matter.

Anyways I'd start at the plug wires take em off make sure they are dry both ends at the cap and plug. If you get water in there it'll run like a pig. After you do that I'd start checking sensors such as the tps and cps etc etc... Making sure all the connectors are dry water in the connectors is bad. The electrical current will go thru the water straight into the block tb whatever it's hooked up to. And that is also called a short if you wanna know terms. Also make sure you didn't knock off any vacuum lines. Just take a good look at everything making sure everything is hooked up and dry.

I hope this all helps. Always gotta look at what you did before the problem occurs. Let me know if you figure it out. Just really make sure your plugs and wires are dry.

Kuro89

Saw something crazy at the JY today it was an 84 XJ with the 2.8 v6 AT and the t-case on it was funky as hell, it had the regular lever to shift but it only had HI and LO and right behind the shifter it had another toggle that said 2wd 4wd and a **** that said "pull to engage" also took a look underneath and it didn't have a slipyoke it was really weird anyone know what t-case it was?
it was bone stock by the way

dukie564

Yea the early XJs were a totally different animal mechanically. The have vacuum disconnect front axles (the "pull to engage" handle) and the NP207 transfer case with the HI-LO range selector selector switch.