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Old 08-15-2016, 06:03 PM
  #55711  
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I had my engine rebuilt a few thousand miles ago... New water pump and almost everything else replaced... For so reason the coolant in the overflow has brown smudge in it... I am not losing or gaining coolant... Do you know what cause this smudge...
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:09 PM
  #55712  
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Maybe from the heater core?
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:16 PM
  #55713  
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I'm looking for opinions on this problem.
I'm changing out my rear shackles and on the passenger side the sleeve froze to the bolt and came out with it, expanding the hole in the shackle hanger to its diameter... (Included picture)

The shackle hangers are in good shape. I'm looking for opinions on how to deal with this enlarged hole....

Can I slip a washer on both the inside and outside face of the hanger at the smaller correct diameter in hopes of sandwiching that as the proper diameter. I'd think I'd have all sorts of problems with play and alignment?

Should I weld a plate on the outside of the shackle hanger that has the correct size diameter hole, aligning it by just using the shackle bolt?


Most of what I've seen in posts here are about rusted or replacing shackle hangers. Have not seen any recommendations on this problem.... I'd imagine I'm not the first to experience it....


Thanks
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:42 PM
  #55714  
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Originally Posted by orlowand
I'm looking for opinions on this problem. I'm changing out my rear shackles and on the passenger side the sleeve froze to the bolt and came out with it, expanding the hole in the shackle hanger to its diameter... (Included picture) The shackle hangers are in good shape. I'm looking for opinions on how to deal with this enlarged hole.... Can I slip a washer on both the inside and outside face of the hanger at the smaller correct diameter in hopes of sandwiching that as the proper diameter. I'd think I'd have all sorts of problems with play and alignment? Should I weld a plate on the outside of the shackle hanger that has the correct size diameter hole, aligning it by just using the shackle bolt? Most of what I've seen in posts here are about rusted or replacing shackle hangers. Have not seen any recommendations on this problem.... I'd imagine I'm not the first to experience it.... Thanks
I would weld a washer with the correct diameter hole on the outside of the hangar and be done wth it.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:02 PM
  #55715  
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Anyone have any recommendations/advice for replacing D30 axle seals? I had my u-joints changed and the drivers side is leaking terribly now.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:53 PM
  #55716  
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Originally Posted by exFJGuy
Installed a ARES Evolution front bumper today. Now the piece the vacuum ball mounted to is gone.


Anyone with the same or similar bumpers have any thoughts on where I should mount, zip tie, or put the thing?


THX
I actually relocated mine to behind the front cross brace... just make sure you keep it as close to the passenger side frame rail as possible to avoid possibility of contact with the fan (which is minimal - especially if you have the shroud in place).


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Old 08-15-2016, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by exFJGuy


I went out to move it, looked up under the fender and this spot looked to temping to ignore. The left hole was already in the brace, so drilled one hole and used the original screws and there it is. I'll monitor it and if I think its in danger I'll move it up to where your is. Its definitely not going to get hit from the front.
It's fun to see where guys put them. As long as it's protected from debris, you're golden. Looks good!

Originally Posted by jackace
If my AC is on and after a few minutes switches to a different setting I.E. From the upper vents to the defrost vent. Then when I change the setting from low to high and another setting it will come back on at the setting I set it at then about 5-10 minutes later it will go back to the Defrost vent.
Only issues is with AC on not with heat. is that a blend door issue, resistor or blower motor? Do I even have it in the right ballpark in the system or is there something else I need to trouble shoot in addition to diagnose?
Since it keeps wanting to switch up to the defrost vents, check the tiny vacuum line that controls it. Passenger side engine bay behind the emissions purge solenoid. Comes off the main vacuum line for the cruise and resevoir. Almost looks like a little wire but it's a tiny, PITA vacuum line. I guess the designers needed to save all the room they could? Mine had a hole in it and practically disintegrated in my hand when I touched it.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:48 PM
  #55718  
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Here:
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:09 PM
  #55719  
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Originally Posted by NewbJeep
It's fun to see where guys put them. As long as it's protected from debris, you're golden. Looks good! Since it keeps wanting to switch up to the defrost vents, check the tiny vacuum line that controls it. Passenger side engine bay behind the emissions purge solenoid. Comes off the main vacuum line for the cruise and resevoir. Almost looks like a little wire but it's a tiny, PITA vacuum line. I guess the designers needed to save all the room they could? Mine had a hole in it and practically disintegrated in my hand when I touched it.
Thanks I'll take a look at that didn't think to check that
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Old 08-16-2016, 11:42 AM
  #55720  
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I have a huge freon leak, it won't hold a charge for more than a day or two. I think it may be the evaporator but I want to rule anything else out before I tear my dash apart, what can I do to test the rest of the system?
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:15 PM
  #55721  
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Originally Posted by cbs_24
Anyone have any recommendations/advice for replacing D30 axle seals? I had my u-joints changed and the drivers side is leaking terribly now.
They probably nicked the seals when putting the shafts back in.

These two guides will prepare you completely:

http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoD30AxlesSeals.htm
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30seals/seal-1.htm

You'll want to get the axle high enough up for the pry bar to fit. Might need new stands.

For installing the seals I actually used a massive socket, a couple of adapters, and 3/8" ratchet driver extensions. Similar idea to that tool with the threaded rod.

Originally Posted by nardey11
I have a huge freon leak, it won't hold a charge for more than a day or two. I think it may be the evaporator but I want to rule anything else out before I tear my dash apart, what can I do to test the rest of the system?
Take it to a professional with actual leak detection tools and stop pissing refrigerant into the atmosphere.
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:27 PM
  #55722  
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Originally Posted by salad
Take it to a professional with actual leak detection tools and stop pissing refrigerant into the atmosphere.
I haven't even put any freon in, the previous owner did a few times, so any damage from the 2 cans wasn't me. I also don't have 500 bucks to take it to an ac shop.
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Old 08-16-2016, 03:21 PM
  #55723  
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Originally Posted by nardey11
I haven't even put any freon in, the previous owner did a few times, so any damage from the 2 cans wasn't me. I also don't have 500 bucks to take it to an ac shop.
i don't think a leak down test would cost 500 bucks.. people online seem to say they had it done for about 100-200, sometimes 300 but that was pushing it.

maybe you can try with dye? if you don't find any in the engine bay it's safe to assume it leaks at the evap core.
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:02 PM
  #55724  
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Originally Posted by jackace
Thanks I'll take a look at that didn't think to check that
Post an update if you find/fix it. I was pretty psyched when I had vent air again
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:53 PM
  #55725  
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Originally Posted by nardey11
I haven't even put any freon in, the previous owner did a few times, so any damage from the 2 cans wasn't me. I also don't have 500 bucks to take it to an ac shop.
Time to go doorless
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