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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I will check the coil, thats something that i have been tossing around.. if it could be a coil issue that is. The u joints are all brand new, both axles and drive shafts.....and the jeep only vibrates/hums/resonates at a dead stop in gear. any bump of the skinny pedal smooths it right out until it hits that 700 rpm world again.
I chased a hesitation issue for a long time, wasted lots of time and money on unnecessary parts. Even after having a couple mechanics look at it no one noticed the cracked housing on the coil.. such a headache! idk man, good luck..
I will check the coil, thats something that i have been tossing around.. if it could be a coil issue that is. The u joints are all brand new, both axles and drive shafts.....and the jeep only vibrates/hums/resonates at a dead stop in gear. any bump of the skinny pedal smooths it right out until it hits that 700 rpm world again.
I have soft water were I live. Would it be a bad idea to use tap water for a few flushes? I'm going to run a chemical flush and you need to flush a few times after that too.. Would be a ton of deionized water (supposed to use that over distilled actually).
Last edited by indeepwithajeep; 08-17-2016 at 07:28 PM.
I have soft water were I live. Would it be a bad idea to use tap water for a few flushes? I'm going to run a chemical flush and you need to flush a few times after that too.. Would be a ton of deionized water (supposed to use that over distilled actually).
Nope, not at all. Fine for flushes. If you had hard water I'd suggest doing a final push with distilled to make sure the minerals are out.
how can i tell a rear wheel bearing is bad just by looking at it? i have the whole axle apart and was considering changing them but they look good and when i roll my finger on them it's all smooth. i'd rather save the 30-40 bucks the bearings and seal would cost me if possible
how can i tell a rear wheel bearing is bad just by looking at it? i have the whole axle apart and was considering changing them but they look good and when i roll my finger on them it's all smooth. i'd rather save the 30-40 bucks the bearings and seal would cost me if possible
As long as it rolls smooth with no restrictions. But honestly I would just replace it if it's already out. 30 bucks isn't much and I'm sure those are original bearings. Why do you have the axle apart?
how can i tell a rear wheel bearing is bad just by looking at it? i have the whole axle apart and was considering changing them but they look good and when i roll my finger on them it's all smooth. i'd rather save the 30-40 bucks the bearings and seal would cost me if possible
Does it click when you drive?
If I personally had it apart and could afford to do it I would do it.
Reason being is its just a good time to do the seals and bearings and saves headaches from doing it later.
Last time I did mine I was doing my rear brakes and they were clicking pretty bad when I was driving.
As long as it rolls smooth with no restrictions. But honestly I would just replace it if it's already out. 30 bucks isn't much and I'm sure those are original bearings. Why do you have the axle apart?
i got it from a junkyard and am currently rebuilding it to swap under the jeep. my current 8.25 has a pinion bearing on its way out and instead of having a shop do the job I put the money towards a new 8.25 with an lsd (was only 60 bucks) and disc brake conversion.
30 bucks doesn't sound like much but when doing my shopping around the lowest I could get was 50 bucks shipped from rockauto. canadian dollar is still weak so simple parts like this end up costing a lot.. that's why i'm wondering if there's a certain way to make sure. I'd replace the seals at the very least, but if I could save the price of the bearings, that's more gas money in my pockets!
Originally Posted by jackace
Does it click when you drive?
If I personally had it apart and could afford to do it I would do it.
Reason being is its just a good time to do the seals and bearings and saves headaches from doing it later.
Last time I did mine I was doing my rear brakes and they were clicking pretty bad when I was driving.
like i said above I can't test this way because it's standing on cement blocks right now. i didn't think to check when the wheels were on before removing everything, that's my bad. it's all stripped except for the carrier and seals/bearings, and while I see why it's worth it to do it now rather than when everything is reinstalled, i could really save the money. on top of that my local parts store doesn't have the bearing puller needed for this, so I'm a little scared I'll end up messing the axle housing without the proper tools.
Couple posts above gave me another idea about my MAP sensor low input issues. Occasionally I've seen O2 sensor heater on my OBD2 reader as "incomplete". Is there anywhere where those 2 circuits could interact?
i got it from a junkyard and am currently rebuilding it to swap under the jeep. my current 8.25 has a pinion bearing on its way out and instead of having a shop do the job I put the money towards a new 8.25 with an lsd (was only 60 bucks) and disc brake conversion.
30 bucks doesn't sound like much but when doing my shopping around the lowest I could get was 50 bucks shipped from rockauto. canadian dollar is still weak so simple parts like this end up costing a lot.. that's why i'm wondering if there's a certain way to make sure. I'd replace the seals at the very least, but if I could save the price of the bearings, that's more gas money in my pockets!
like i said above I can't test this way because it's standing on cement blocks right now. i didn't think to check when the wheels were on before removing everything, that's my bad. it's all stripped except for the carrier and seals/bearings, and while I see why it's worth it to do it now rather than when everything is reinstalled, i could really save the money. on top of that my local parts store doesn't have the bearing puller needed for this, so I'm a little scared I'll end up messing the axle housing without the proper tools.
Could slide an axle shaft back in and give it a wiggle. Any movement = dead
I 'borrowed' a slide hammer puller from Partsource
Could slide an axle shaft back in and give it a wiggle. Any movement = dead I 'borrowed' a slide hammer puller from Partsource
Both of those things are super easy to do. Not sure why they are that expensive for ya, they don't weigh much for shipping might try a couple of other online parts stores to see if you can get a better price. Or see if one of the chains in your area can ship to the store for free from an online order.
So my question is i own a 97 grand cherokee and im not sure but i crank runs then cuts off.gas tank is on full and i put transmission fluid and some cleaner stuff in. Ive replaced spark wires distributor cap but it seems more like mabey fuel pump or fuel filter? Not sure battery is good so any suggestions on the problem? Mechanics here suck lol help!
Was just doing an oil change and found a vacuum line that comes out of the firewall on the passenger side that is not connected. Never noticed it before. Anyone know where this should connect and what it's for?
Was just doing an oil change and found a vacuum line that comes out of the firewall on the passenger side that is not connected. Never noticed it before. Anyone know where this should connect and what it's for?
Connects to HCV, heater control valve. Located in heater hoses in front of firewall. Looks like yours was deleted. Just plug the line and secure it.
09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
