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Old 08-23-2016, 07:09 PM
  #55786  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Did you lube everything up when you replaced the parts? You could've burned out the motor if there's too much resistance
Yes, used electrical grease religiously on everything
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:05 PM
  #55787  
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Originally Posted by ksrummel
So I have a dilemma. I replaced the passenger side window regulator and assembly maybe 1.5years ago. It worked great and then about a month ago it started acting up and didn't always want to work. It finally stopped working once I got it up. It started working this past weekend when i had my door panels apart fixing it so the back windows would work from the back doors. Now my passenger side window is down 4-5" and I don't know how to get it back up. I fixed soders on both switches to no effect. I also checked the wires in the door crease and the only two that were broken were for the speaker and door lock so they both were fixed. If anybody knows how to get the window back up manually or something I'd greatly appreciate it. It's suppose to rain this Thursday. It's a 98 with the 4.0 and power everything.
could be an issue with the driver side master window switch.. I always recommend trying this, but using a soldered in jumper wire instead of paperclip once verified. The panel its behind is driver side foot well, just in front of the door.
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Old 08-24-2016, 06:21 AM
  #55788  
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Originally Posted by VTJeep
could be an issue with the driver side master window switch.. I always recommend trying this, but using a soldered in jumper wire instead of paperclip once verified. The panel its behind is driver side foot well, just in front of the door.
So test it first with the paper clip to see if that is the issue?
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:14 AM
  #55789  
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Originally Posted by VTJeep
could be an issue with the driver side master window switch.. I always recommend trying this, but using a soldered in jumper wire instead of paperclip once verified. The panel its behind is driver side foot well, just in front of the door.
I think I've seen someone do this but use one of these instead.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:38 PM
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Default Front drive shaft question

I have a 99 XJ 4door with NP231 I need to retire and was wondering if the drive shaft will work on the wife's 99 XJ 2door with a NP242? I have long removed hers due to bad u joints. Is it the same for both? Thank you in advance for your responses.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ksrummel
I think I've seen someone do this but use one of these instead.
I just stripped an inch section of the two wires, twisted them together, then soldered them
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Devodale
I have a 99 XJ 4door with NP231 I need to retire and was wondering if the drive shaft will work on the wife's 99 XJ 2door with a NP242? I have long removed hers due to bad u joints. Is it the same for both? Thank you in advance for your responses.
D.
Door configuration and transfer case don't matter to the front driveshafts in the XJ, just the transmission and engine. Are they the same engine and transmission?

Last edited by salad; 08-26-2016 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Door configuration and transfer case don't matter to the driveshafts in the XJ, transmission does. Are they the same engine and transmission?
And axle?
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Door configuration and transfer case don't matter to the driveshafts in the XJ, transmission does. Are they the same engine and transmission?
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
And axle?
the 242 is a longer case? And there are internal vs external slip yokes between years.

Edit: fronts may still be the same?
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:39 PM
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Same motor, same tranny ( pretty sure) but rear axle....4 door has ABS, the 2 door, not. Again not sure if that makes a difference. Was hoping to swap rear ends eventually since the 2 door has been banging ever since I've owned it. The ABS is all in the master cylinder, correct?
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Devodale
Same motor, same tranny ( pretty sure) but rear axle....4 door has ABS, the 2 door, not. Again not sure if that makes a difference. Was hoping to swap rear ends eventually since the 2 door has been banging ever since I've owned it. The ABS is all in the master cylinder, correct?
Incorrect. I'm not an expert on ABS, but I know there's more to it
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:07 PM
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abs means D35 rear. No abs means it was deleted or 8.25.
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ksrummel
I think I've seen someone do this but use one of these instead.
scotchloks are worthless, just an electrical nightmare in the making.
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:14 PM
  #55799  
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I have a clunk when I put my jeep into drive and reverse, when I let off the gas or give it gas when cruising down the road there is clunking... Would this be my transfer case? I am thinking about rebuilding it next summer when I do my sye... Are they hard to rebuild... About how much for parts
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DirtyKurty
I have a clunk when I put my jeep into drive and reverse, when I let off the gas or give it gas when cruising down the road there is clunking... Would this be my transfer case? I am thinking about rebuilding it next summer when I do my sye... Are they hard to rebuild... About how much for parts
Likely it's driveshaft u-joints
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