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10-30-2016, 04:22 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
10-30-2016, 04:33 PM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Replacing wiring with upgraded 4 AWG. What am I seeing here? Black box mounted to the bottom of the alt and going somewhere near the engine block. Sorry if app rotates the photo! (On mobile)
10-31-2016, 04:30 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Grab the battery off your cordless drill, make yourself some "jumpers" with some alligator clips and insulated wire, attach the clips to the positive and negative terminals on the battery pack and the other end to the leads on the motor's harness and see what happens. Also try reversing polarity.
If nothing happens, then you know it's the motor. If it works one way, but not the other, it's still the motor. If works both ways, well you've got a problem somewhere else either in the switch or the wiring itself.
If nothing happens, then you know it's the motor. If it works one way, but not the other, it's still the motor. If works both ways, well you've got a problem somewhere else either in the switch or the wiring itself.
10-31-2016, 01:50 PM
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Replaced my trans mount over the weekend (rubber mount), and now it sounds like my exhaust is in my back seat, and I have a little bit more vibes than before. Smooth while coasting but kinda loud and "aggressive" feeling under acceleration. Should I be replacing motor mounts at the same time, or is there something else I should be looking for?
10-31-2016, 02:48 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replaced my trans mount over the weekend (rubber mount), and now it sounds like my exhaust is in my back seat, and I have a little bit more vibes than before. Smooth while coasting but kinda loud and "aggressive" feeling under acceleration. Should I be replacing motor mounts at the same time, or is there something else I should be looking for?
10-31-2016, 03:11 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thought I remember Brown Dog instructions stating you can replace motor mounts without replacing trans mount at the same time but not transmission mount without replacing motor mounts. Not saying you need Brown Dog but it might be something with the angles and new positions of the trans/motor
10-31-2016, 05:52 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anyone have any techniques for diagnosing a stuck belt? Upon start up, One of the worst sounds I've ever heard and the I look under the hood, the belt isn't moving at all.
After removing the belt, the power steering, idler pulley, water pump and a/c all spin freely. Made sure a/c is off when trying to start. Alternator pulley doesn't move but I'm not supposed to be able to spin that by hand, right?
After removing the belt, the power steering, idler pulley, water pump and a/c all spin freely. Made sure a/c is off when trying to start. Alternator pulley doesn't move but I'm not supposed to be able to spin that by hand, right?
10-31-2016, 06:52 PM
CF Veteran
Thought I remember Brown Dog instructions stating you can replace motor mounts without replacing trans mount at the same time but not transmission mount without replacing motor mounts. Not saying you need Brown Dog but it might be something with the angles and new positions of the trans/motor
10-31-2016, 06:55 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yep. Leave the trans mount loose while you install BD mounts. Follow his directions carefully and you should have no problems. I still have a bit of a rumble at idle but I don't mind it.
10-31-2016, 07:05 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Just to reinforce this, it's important to follow the torque instructions on their website. Don't brush it off, or you'll hate the new mounts.
10-31-2016, 07:38 PM
CF Veteran
Speaking of which, are the brackets necessary? I just have the mounts themselves. Sounds like he recommends the brackets, but not sure if I necessarily need them on a DD. Thoughts? Again, probably thinking too far into it, but I don't want the brackets or the bracket to engine block bolts to break.
10-31-2016, 07:50 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anyway, so i have a putco headlight harness and my high beams don't work. Today I figured out why. The red in the plug pulled out. Both relays are fine and tested with the low beam.
I have these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017V...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And am curious to see if they could wired into the putco harness. Or can someone lead me onto the proper relay/plug harness.
I originally thought it was a bad relay since they're notorious for failing and ordered this set of relays. Apparently whatever thread i was reading was wrong. My fault, but I would really like to have high beams again.
11-03-2016, 08:34 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
I'll drink to that! 
That is Chrysler's wonderful answer to not trusting their technicians to properly connect an alternator.
Excellent! 
See? Good Advice Saught + Finding Good Advice + Following Good Advice = Positive Results
I honestly can't remember the prong count on the relays. I wanna say that's correct, but I can't swear by it.
Replacing wiring with upgraded 4 AWG. What am I seeing here? Black box mounted to the bottom of the alt and going somewhere near the engine block. Sorry if app rotates the photo! (On mobile)
Attachment 295837
Attachment 295837
X2 on both of these.
Anyway, so i have a putco headlight harness and my high beams don't work. Today I figured out why. The red in the plug pulled out. Both relays are fine and tested with the low beam.
I have these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017V...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And am curious to see if they could wired into the putco harness. Or can someone lead me onto the proper relay/plug harness.
I originally thought it was a bad relay since they're notorious for failing and ordered this set of relays. Apparently whatever thread i was reading was wrong. My fault, but I would really like to have high beams again.
Anyway, so i have a putco headlight harness and my high beams don't work. Today I figured out why. The red in the plug pulled out. Both relays are fine and tested with the low beam.
I have these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017V...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And am curious to see if they could wired into the putco harness. Or can someone lead me onto the proper relay/plug harness.
I originally thought it was a bad relay since they're notorious for failing and ordered this set of relays. Apparently whatever thread i was reading was wrong. My fault, but I would really like to have high beams again.
11-03-2016, 10:32 AM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Brake Bleeding
Pop's Jeep sat too long and now the caliper is stuck. What a smell. At least I was able to get it home.
If I replace the front calipers, do I have to bleed RR, RL, FR, FL or can I just bleed the fronts? I don't want to risk ringing off the rear bleeder valves and increasing my job time.
If I replace the front calipers, do I have to bleed RR, RL, FR, FL or can I just bleed the fronts? I don't want to risk ringing off the rear bleeder valves and increasing my job time.
11-03-2016, 10:38 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright guys so I flushed my radiator and heater core about a week ago and filled it back up with good antifreeze. Sadly I still don't consistently have good heat. Both of the heater core hoses are hot when at running temperature and when I try to run the heat the belts start squeaking like a stuck hog. I'm running out of ideas here somebody help me lol