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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
darn...ok. What would the brake switch effect? I get tail lights properly. It should still stay in 0 fuel mode even if you had to ride the brakes down the hill? Tested that this morning and no change when I apply or remove the brake, no codes either. It's never an easy fix...lol
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
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12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
darn...ok. What would the brake switch effect? I get tail lights properly. It should still stay in 0 fuel mode even if you had to ride the brakes down the hill? Tested that this morning and no change when I apply or remove the brake, no codes either. It's never an easy fix...lol
CF Veteran
The brake switch assembly has several contacts in it. One is for the lights (duh) but one is for the PCM. When you hit the brakes it will cancel cruise (if it's on) and unlock the torque converter. If the torque converter's unlocked the engine COULD drop to idle, at which point it'll leave decel mode and use fuel. But you should notice a giant drop in RPM
Edit: That reminds me, is the TC clutch supposed to unlock every time you let off the gas completely? Mine does but locks pretty much as soon as you press the gas pedal in any amount.
Last edited by rcguymike; 12-09-2016 at 12:16 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Interesting!. I think it's in 4th when it does this so it could be about that much of a swing I'd say. At this point I think I'm willing to just throw the $20 at it and replace it(no idea if it's been replaced before and I like new hopefully reliable parts) unless you have a better idea. Looks like the FSM has troubleshooting steps otherwise as well.
Edit: That reminds me, is the TC clutch supposed to unlock every time you let off the gas completely? Mine does but locks pretty much as soon as you press the gas pedal in any amount.
Edit: That reminds me, is the TC clutch supposed to unlock every time you let off the gas completely? Mine does but locks pretty much as soon as you press the gas pedal in any amount.
CF Veteran
CF Veteran
The brake switch assembly has several contacts in it. One is for the lights (duh) but one is for the PCM. When you hit the brakes it will cancel cruise (if it's on) and unlock the torque converter. If the torque converter's unlocked the engine COULD drop to idle, at which point it'll leave decel mode and use fuel. But you should notice a giant drop in RPM
Interesting!. I think it's in 4th when it does this so it could be about that much of a swing I'd say. At this point I think I'm willing to just throw the $20 at it and replace it(no idea if it's been replaced before and I like new hopefully reliable parts) unless you have a better idea. Looks like the FSM has troubleshooting steps otherwise as well.
Edit: That reminds me, is the TC clutch supposed to unlock every time you let off the gas completely? Mine does but locks pretty much as soon as you press the gas pedal in any amount.
Edit: That reminds me, is the TC clutch supposed to unlock every time you let off the gas completely? Mine does but locks pretty much as soon as you press the gas pedal in any amount.
I think this might be the same problem I have on my ZJ!!!!! I love you salad!
Last edited by rcguymike; 12-09-2016 at 02:19 PM.
CF Veteran
huh...won't let me edit: ^ you fending me off while I try to hug you! lol
Would the one in my '99 be the one you just pull out to readjust the ratcheting mechanism?
http://www.xjtalk.com/showpost.php?p=83023&postcount=1
Edit: I think there's a bug with the fight emoticon...anyways I need to get back to work!!! lol
Would the one in my '99 be the one you just pull out to readjust the ratcheting mechanism?
http://www.xjtalk.com/showpost.php?p=83023&postcount=1
Edit: I think there's a bug with the fight emoticon...anyways I need to get back to work!!! lol
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
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12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Yeah. Adjustment is described on page 5-26 to page 5-27. You can get it here http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365
CF Veteran
Yeah. Adjustment is described on page 5-26 to page 5-27. You can get it here http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365
from '99 FSM
STOP LAMP SWITCH
(1) Press and hold brake pedal in applied position.
(2) Pull switch plunger all the way out to fully
extended position.
(3) Release brake pedal. Then pull pedal fully rearward.
Pedal will set plunger to correct position as
pedal pushes plunger into switch body. Switch will
make ratcheting sound as it self adjusts.
(1) Press and hold brake pedal in applied position.
(2) Pull switch plunger all the way out to fully
extended position.
(3) Release brake pedal. Then pull pedal fully rearward.
Pedal will set plunger to correct position as
pedal pushes plunger into switch body. Switch will
make ratcheting sound as it self adjusts.
Low oil pressure
I was driving home from work, and about a half mile down the road my oil pressure gauge dropped to zero. I pulled over and stopped my car for a minute and waited to start it back up, once I did the engine sounded fine. No clunking or anything, yet the gauge was still at zero. I went home and figured I'd deal with it tomorrow. The next day comes along and I start the ole XJ up and my gauge starts to read 10 at idle, lower than before at idle of 30-40. I took it for a small drive to see what the gauge would do and when I would accelerate at about 3000 rpm it would jump up to about 30, then when I would continue at the same speed it would drop down to between 20 and 30. But since it being at zero the first night I haven't seen it below 10. I have no idea what could be causing it to be at zero one day then to low pressure the next. Any suggestions on what to do???
No, I don't lick fish.
I was driving home from work, and about a half mile down the road my oil pressure gauge dropped to zero. I pulled over and stopped my car for a minute and waited to start it back up, once I did the engine sounded fine. No clunking or anything, yet the gauge was still at zero. I went home and figured I'd deal with it tomorrow. The next day comes along and I start the ole XJ up and my gauge starts to read 10 at idle, lower than before at idle of 30-40. I took it for a small drive to see what the gauge would do and when I would accelerate at about 3000 rpm it would jump up to about 30, then when I would continue at the same speed it would drop down to between 20 and 30. But since it being at zero the first night I haven't seen it below 10. I have no idea what could be causing it to be at zero one day then to low pressure the next. Any suggestions on what to do???
Last edited by Basslicks; 12-10-2016 at 06:44 AM. Reason: I haz the dumb.
No, I don't lick fish.
Dadgummit!!!!!
lol... hey, you asked for suggestions. Based on what you described, it's either the sender or a loose connection.
After you replace your sender, go through and pull off all the grounds, make 'em shiney with some sand paper or wire brush, put some dielectric grease on them and fasten them again. Then, pull apart all of your electrical connectors, spray them with some electronics cleaner, dielectric grease and reconnect them all.
This is what I do with almost any used vehicle I buy... when and where I can.
After you replace your sender, go through and pull off all the grounds, make 'em shiney with some sand paper or wire brush, put some dielectric grease on them and fasten them again. Then, pull apart all of your electrical connectors, spray them with some electronics cleaner, dielectric grease and reconnect them all.
This is what I do with almost any used vehicle I buy... when and where I can.