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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Short answer:
The perches aren't just SUA. They're also spaced differently than XJ spring perches. You'd still have to weld on new ones either way.
. . . . . .
Yup, that's what I needed to know. Thank you for that.
Yeah, I can't get around the spacings issue without cutting and welding.
I'll just replace the springs and leave the old 35 axel where it is. Maybe wire brush it to knock all the rust chunks off and spray it.
There is a guy about 50 minutes away with used late model XJ Cherokee springs. He's Askin one hundred. I can pick up thos in my lill car for sure.
A '97-01 C8.25 will be just as strong and will bolt right in
Yes, I know. That is why I mentioned it and wished I was able to get one.
Hi All I just order a new Clear Water head, after removing my Cherokee head I discover the cam bearings shot, lifters shot.
I want to replace the short block,
I live in Las Vegas and I want to know who to order a short block from, any recommendation. Nation wide, what members are using and from who.
Thanks all
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4D 4.0 I6 Crak 0331 Head 4X4 Automatic
Ive got a '99 XJ 4.0L with heater issues. Last winter the heater worked great, got nice and hot in 10 minutes or so. This year it barely gets luke warm. It works okay when its not too cold (in the 40's or so) but anything lower than that it has little effect, just enough to take the edge off but still pretty chilly in the cab. All of the hoses to the heater core are hot. I checked the blend door actuator and it moves how it is supposed to. Im thinking maybe the blend door itself is broken and doesnt move. there is also a thin green film on the blend door actuator which suggests coolant leak, but I havnt had to add any coolant, there's no moisture on the passenger floor and im not getting foggy windows so if there is a leak it must be very small and I dont think that's what's causing my heater issues. Any ideas fixes. I'd rather not have to take the dash out. Could it be something other than a blend door?
I just started tearing into my 87' today. Is it just me or does this caliper just look wrong? Like there should be more bracket? Or do they just ride on the bolts? Sorry if this is dumb but the look is just buggin me .
So I really want to do some H4 led light bulbs with the headlight housings I got from a friend of mine. My problem is I have used eBay once about 6 + years ago and had a typical experience with it I suppose. I'm not sure how to find some good quality bulbs on such a site (amazon included) and don't want to buy something with a high price tag and it end up being some crappy junky thing. I've also tried just using google but I've heard and seen sooooo many people getting ripped off it makes me overly cautious buying from somewhere I've never heard of.
Does anyone have suggestions on where I should look? Or does anyone have experience on shopping for H4 leds that they could share?
Thank you.
Never mind after researching best H4 leds I found this and it really shed some light (hahaha I know it's cheesy) on the current tech. While the H4 bulbs may be brighter then halogen they don't spread the same way causing farther distance to be dimmer if not worse. Looks like I need some good ol fashion halogens.
. . . I'd be real leery about leaving who knows how ancient gear oil in there!
Yea, I was thinking that too. That's why I was hoping to get the diff cover off, but the nuts are rusted and rounded and the plug won't budge.
Jeep was last on the road 5 years ago. The P.O. bought it in 1990 an doesn't ever remember having the gear oil changed, but said it was serviced regularly at the dealer, as recomended till 1993 when the warranty expired (7 70). After that, just had things fixed as needed. After 97 it became spair vehicle and a foul whether driver only.
Guess I will try using a MAPP gas torch on the nut, I don't have an Oxy/Act setup.
Hello, newbie here, even though I'm old, lol. Great forum, and I like the idea of this Ask the Question thread.
The problem: 1990 Cherokee 4.0 2-door, 4x4, Sport (I think) with 4" RE lift. It had been mostly parked for a couple years. Installed a SYE last spring and soon after started experiencing a loud clunk while under acceleration or climbing a hill, that shakes the whole rig. It happened in 2wd on the rear axle, and to further test, pulled the rear drive shaft and it occurred even more frequently on the front axle. Checked and replaced u-joints, control arm bushings and did a front alignment. The clunk only became more frequent. Over Thanksgiving weekend we put in a t-case rebuild kit and new chain. Hallelujah! The clunk disappeared! But this week while climbing some steep terrain the clunk returned, but only when climbing steep grades. We think it is coming from the t-case, as that seemed to fix the problem for a while. Any ideas?
I just started tearing into my 87' today. Is it just me or does this caliper just look wrong? Like there should be more bracket? Or do they just ride on the bolts? Sorry if this is dumb but the look is just buggin me .
Hiya Scross22,
Looks the same as my '86. Remember that the caliper only does the squeezing, the pads do the whoaing. The pad look cleanly seated on the bracket.
Tim
Tim,
thanks, It just looked a little goofy to me because the caliper has those feet on both sides and no bracket to meet to, and the pad doesnt cover the cylinder. just different from what im used to and i tied looking at a few brake job write ups on here and it was a different caliper than the ones on later years. Thanks again
Yea, I was thinking that too. That's why I was hoping to get the diff cover off, but the nuts are rusted and rounded and the plug won't budge. Jeep was last on the road 5 years ago. The P.O. bought it in 1990 an doesn't ever remember having the gear oil changed, but said it was serviced regularly at the dealer, as recomended till 1993 when the warranty expired (7 70). After that, just had things fixed as needed. After 97 it became spair vehicle and a foul whether driver only. Guess I will try using a MAPP gas torch on the nut, I don't have an Oxy/Act setup.
Yuck! That puts it at maybe 23 years old, then.
There are these little sockets made for removing rounded nuts and bolt heads. They have a spiral cut inside, they're quite handy.
09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
