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XJ Ask the Question Thread
No, I don't lick fish.
http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/242Jeepap...n27spline.html
Anyone have the link to the write up about how to modify your front turn signal so the entire thing lights up instead of just the top?
On a related note, the search feature here really SUCKS. If you search ...........for instance, "turn signal mod", every thread with any of those words comes up, I don't have the time to search dozens of threads, some with up to 750,000 posts in them. Using the "advanced" feature to narrow search only narrows the search by a little.
On a related note, the search feature here really SUCKS. If you search ...........for instance, "turn signal mod", every thread with any of those words comes up, I don't have the time to search dozens of threads, some with up to 750,000 posts in them. Using the "advanced" feature to narrow search only narrows the search by a little.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i have a rust hole directly under the front seats crossmember. i heard they're a pain to remove. what's the best thing to do here? clean and cut out the rust from under the jeep and weld there? the crossmember itself is solid and has 0 rust, only the floor under it seems affected. if i want to try and remove it, is it spot welded?
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
i have a rust hole directly under the front seats crossmember. i heard they're a pain to remove. what's the best thing to do here? clean and cut out the rust from under the jeep and weld there? the crossmember itself is solid and has 0 rust, only the floor under it seems affected. if i want to try and remove it, is it spot welded?
Hello, newbie here, even though I'm old, lol. Great forum, and I like the idea of this Ask the Question thread.
The problem: 1990 Cherokee 4.0 2-door, 4x4, Sport (I think) with 4" RE lift. It had been mostly parked for a couple years. Installed a SYE last spring and soon after started experiencing a loud clunk while under acceleration or climbing a hill, that shakes the whole rig. It happened in 2wd on the rear axle, and to further test, pulled the rear drive shaft and it occurred even more frequently on the front axle. Checked and replaced u-joints, control arm bushings and did a front alignment. The clunk only became more frequent. Over Thanksgiving weekend we put in a t-case rebuild kit and new chain. Hallelujah! The clunk disappeared! But this week while climbing some steep terrain the clunk returned, but only when climbing steep grades. We think it is coming from the t-case, as that seemed to fix the problem for a while. Any ideas?
The problem: 1990 Cherokee 4.0 2-door, 4x4, Sport (I think) with 4" RE lift. It had been mostly parked for a couple years. Installed a SYE last spring and soon after started experiencing a loud clunk while under acceleration or climbing a hill, that shakes the whole rig. It happened in 2wd on the rear axle, and to further test, pulled the rear drive shaft and it occurred even more frequently on the front axle. Checked and replaced u-joints, control arm bushings and did a front alignment. The clunk only became more frequent. Over Thanksgiving weekend we put in a t-case rebuild kit and new chain. Hallelujah! The clunk disappeared! But this week while climbing some steep terrain the clunk returned, but only when climbing steep grades. We think it is coming from the t-case, as that seemed to fix the problem for a while. Any ideas?
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Basslicks
If you're looking for better options than a HnT, have you checked out Tom Woods? They have a kit that includes a new output shaft, seals, rear bearing, and a driveshaft...
http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/242Jeepap...n27spline.html
http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/242Jeepap...n27spline.html
Thank you.
However I'd still like to avoid an SYE if possible. Will the axle shims work without an SYE?
CF Veteran
With the amount of coolant I lose, roughly about 10-16 ounce every 100 miles, my engine would have been toast long ago if the coolant were getting into the oil.
Any many oil changes, never saw the slightest bit of coolant in the oil, my coolant just vanishes into thin air.
Any many oil changes, never saw the slightest bit of coolant in the oil, my coolant just vanishes into thin air.
I thought that there were only H/T available for the 242, that changes things a bit especially since I didn't grab the driveshaft out of the jeep i pulled the D44 from which I was planning on swapping in at the same time as the lift.
Thank you.
However I'd still like to avoid an SYE if possible. Will the axle shims work without an SYE?
Thank you.
However I'd still like to avoid an SYE if possible. Will the axle shims work without an SYE?
Last edited by rcguymike; 01-22-2017 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Can't spell...
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Location: Florida
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l HO
4X4 Conversion
Hell Fellow Jeep Heads!
I have a 97 Cherokee Sport and I would like to upgrade to 4wd. As of now, it has a dead axle up front.
Does a bolt on axle/ conversion kit/ combination exist, or does it required welding and fabrication in all cases?
Thanks in advance for all of your advise!
I have a 97 Cherokee Sport and I would like to upgrade to 4wd. As of now, it has a dead axle up front.
Does a bolt on axle/ conversion kit/ combination exist, or does it required welding and fabrication in all cases?
Thanks in advance for all of your advise!
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I thought that there were only H/T available for the 242, that changes things a bit especially since I didn't grab the driveshaft out of the jeep i pulled the D44 from which I was planning on swapping in at the same time as the lift.
Thank you.
However I'd still like to avoid an SYE if possible. Will the axle shims work without an SYE?
Thank you.
However I'd still like to avoid an SYE if possible. Will the axle shims work without an SYE?
As for shims, they're used to correct pinion angle to deal with U joint alignment. With a double cardan yoke you typically need to point the pinion UP, so the pinion and DS are basically straight (operating angle of nil on the single cardan). With two single cardans at either end of the DS you will need to point the pinion DOWN so that each U joint is at the same angle and in phase.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmV4qwLfOMY
Hell Fellow Jeep Heads!
I have a 97 Cherokee Sport and I would like to upgrade to 4wd. As of now, it has a dead axle up front.
Does a bolt on axle/ conversion kit/ combination exist, or does it required welding and fabrication in all cases?
Thanks in advance for all of your advise!
I have a 97 Cherokee Sport and I would like to upgrade to 4wd. As of now, it has a dead axle up front.
Does a bolt on axle/ conversion kit/ combination exist, or does it required welding and fabrication in all cases?
Thanks in advance for all of your advise!
You'll need almost an entire donor Jeep.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by rcguymike
What's wrong with a H&T? Plenty of people run them and they're not that week?
Don't get me wrong I'm not trying to cut corners on this I mean I'm going to be spending roughly $2200 on the lift itself. I want to make sure I know as much as possible before diving in and realizing I ****ed up somewhere. My overall plan is to keep this thing going for as long as possible while being able to do and go where I want when I want with it.
So once aging I ask, will the shims work if I don't have an SYE? I for one cannot see a reason why they wouldn't but that's why I'm here asking people who know more then me.
Last edited by PNWjeeper; 01-20-2017 at 01:55 PM.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l HO
Thanks @Salad!
I thought this was the case, but wasn't sure. Thanks for your knowledge!
What would be the recommended axle to bolt in?
Thanks again!
I thought this was the case, but wasn't sure. Thanks for your knowledge!
What would be the recommended axle to bolt in?
Thanks again!
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
All 4WD XJs, MJ, ZJs, and TJs share a D30 (Dana 30) front axle, but some are stronger than others.
You'll want a '94-99 front axle from a Cherokee if you'll be taking it offroad. If it's staying on the street, a '92-01 axle will be just fine from an XJ, ZJ, or TJ.
The driveshaft will need to be from a 4WD XJ with the same transmission as yours (manual or auto).
You'll want a '94-99 front axle from a Cherokee if you'll be taking it offroad. If it's staying on the street, a '92-01 axle will be just fine from an XJ, ZJ, or TJ.
The driveshaft will need to be from a 4WD XJ with the same transmission as yours (manual or auto).
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
So I bought a little oil lubed Craftsmen Compresor.
http://www.sears.com/3-gallon-1.0-hp...3&blockType=G3
$65 out the door and they gave me $20 bucks on the back end. Member of that shopyourway rewards program. Came with the accessories so I am all set to just blow stuff off like all this is really good for. My question is if I were to buy a 3/8" hose would it not work well with it. My thinking is that with the increased size of the hose it will empty the compressor quicker and might have less air volume coming out. Does that make any sense at all?
Thinking of one of these;
http://www.kmart.com/campbell-hausfe...W007794968002P
Now I know that the PVC will be a pain to handle but figure I will get this for free.
Or this one which will cost me about $6:
http://www.kmart.com/tekton-50-ft-x-...p-00910953000P
While I am thinking about this someday I would like to buy a big boy compressor. Any thoughts on this one?
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...l?cm_vc=-10005
http://www.sears.com/3-gallon-1.0-hp...3&blockType=G3
$65 out the door and they gave me $20 bucks on the back end. Member of that shopyourway rewards program. Came with the accessories so I am all set to just blow stuff off like all this is really good for. My question is if I were to buy a 3/8" hose would it not work well with it. My thinking is that with the increased size of the hose it will empty the compressor quicker and might have less air volume coming out. Does that make any sense at all?
Thinking of one of these;
http://www.kmart.com/campbell-hausfe...W007794968002P
Now I know that the PVC will be a pain to handle but figure I will get this for free.
Or this one which will cost me about $6:
http://www.kmart.com/tekton-50-ft-x-...p-00910953000P
While I am thinking about this someday I would like to buy a big boy compressor. Any thoughts on this one?
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...l?cm_vc=-10005
Last edited by Ralph77; 01-21-2017 at 03:53 AM.
No, I don't lick fish.
No, I don't lick fish.
Sorry bud. I wouldn't say it's extremely rare, as I've heard people have this problem before, but I guess the people that HAVE had this problem just haven't seen it yet. Hang in there, man.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I bought a little oil lubed Craftsmen Compresor.
http://www.sears.com/3-gallon-1.0-hp...3&blockType=G3
$65 out the door and they gave me $20 bucks on the back end. Member of that shopyourway rewards program. Came with the accessories so I am all set to just blow stuff off like all this is really good for. My question is if I were to buy a 3/8" hose would it not work well with it. My thinking is that with the increased size of the hose it will empty the compressor quicker and might have less air volume coming out. Does that make any sense at all?
Thinking of one of these;
http://www.kmart.com/campbell-hausfe...W007794968002P
Now I know that the PVC will be a pain to handle but figure I will get this for free.
Or this one which will cost me about $6:
http://www.kmart.com/tekton-50-ft-x-...p-00910953000P
While I am thinking about this someday I would like to buy a big boy compressor. Any thoughts on this one?
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...l?cm_vc=-10005
http://www.sears.com/3-gallon-1.0-hp...3&blockType=G3
$65 out the door and they gave me $20 bucks on the back end. Member of that shopyourway rewards program. Came with the accessories so I am all set to just blow stuff off like all this is really good for. My question is if I were to buy a 3/8" hose would it not work well with it. My thinking is that with the increased size of the hose it will empty the compressor quicker and might have less air volume coming out. Does that make any sense at all?
Thinking of one of these;
http://www.kmart.com/campbell-hausfe...W007794968002P
Now I know that the PVC will be a pain to handle but figure I will get this for free.
Or this one which will cost me about $6:
http://www.kmart.com/tekton-50-ft-x-...p-00910953000P
While I am thinking about this someday I would like to buy a big boy compressor. Any thoughts on this one?
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...l?cm_vc=-10005