sycoglitch

there are non powered GC seats that work. Use the search feature someone on the forum did his front and rear seats with modifictaion of the brackets

ragged1

I'm about to replace my u-joints in my front axle. It's a 2000 sport. Do I need to remove vacuum disconnect motor and shift fork to remove passenger's side axle shaft?

98 brutus

I need some help, so I've been told I need a map sensor and im not sure what tht is and also my main seal went its leakin oil where my engine and tranny meet.. I could use some help with this idk where to start

westok

I'm replying to my own question. I FIXED the cluster problem!! After trying everything, including the TSB on the gauge cluster, nothing had helped. I noticed that every time I would lean over to open the passenger door, the gauges would work. I FINALLY realized it wasn't opening the door that did it but leaning against the center console. So I took the center console out and, you guessed it, a sharp metal edge had cut into two wires. Fixed! I'm embarrassed that it took me so long. Hope this might help someone else.

sycoglitch

Good job fixin the problem

96xjclassic

Very nice! Sometimes simple is the hardest to fix.

vernieiii

I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee limited that is cutting out when the RPM'S hit about 2500-2800, I have replaced the TPS, Map Sensor, had the codes read and their are none showing. I have checked the CPS and it appears to be good. I also recently replaced the flex plate. The Jeep idles fine and throttle acceleration is good until I hit the higher rpm's then it just starts cutting out, drives fine as long as i keep the rpm's under around 2500/ It does this whether in gear driving or just setting in park reving the motor. I am completely stumped and would greatly appreciate any help or advice on what to look at next?

wildspear

The MAP sensor is connected to the throttle body. The main seal isn't that hard to change. Drop the oil pan and the seal is held in with two bolts. Take those bolts out then slide the seal out of the channel. Do a search for more detailed steps but once you get the pan off it will be pretty straight forward.

sycoglitch

i could be very well wrong but do a google search on the "governer sensor" i believe its located by the transmission or in it

evanh

I have a 99 cherokee. Manual trans, 4wd. My gauge cluster is only the speed and gas, with idiot lights for the rest. Is it possible to swap a gauge cluster that actually has the gauges and tach? Without having to change anything major? Thanks.

DocBoCook

does anyone have pictures of the fuses and their locations for the A/C components so I can try and narrow down whats wrong with my system. I have gauges, and they say it is overfull, but I don't trust it because the A/C clutch isn't turning.
Thanks

xjorourke

i do have a question but before it's answered I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has posted on here, I'm new as of today and have already learned so much!

My question: i roll a 98 with a 6.5 rough country lift and I'm about to upgrade from 33's to 35's. i've been hearing that taking that step can jump start diff problems (like blowing them). any advice, is this the case? i'll be getting upgraded diffs later, but will the stock ones hold me over till then?

sycoglitch

What diffs do you have. If it isn't an 8.25 don't upgrade

xjorourke

how can i find this info out if i don't know it?

Customizer1000

Well the differentials arent really the problem, the axles are, if you run the diffs open you should be fine, you either have a d 35 or chry 8.25 in the rear, the 8.25 is the better and a d 30 up front, i ran a d35 & d30 for 4 years with 35s never broke a thing