Basslicks

Beat me to it.

Cane

i get some kind of ticking/squeak in the dash area, right around the driver side vent at the top (older body style).

it happens randomly but seems to be more pronounced when hot air is blowing, not in a "gets louder the faster the vent blows" way but rather sounds like the vinyl/plastic dash gets softer and squeaks against something else, so when i go over bumps or simply on a rough road i hear the sound constantly. it's getting really annoying. sounds familiar to anyone? I'll remove the dash bezel eventually to take a look, but it doesn't sound like something loose.

Basslicks

This is pretty much the answer to your question right here. Try pushing on areas of the dash until you find the noise that mimics what you're hearing, then stick a piece of felt between the two pieces that are rubbing together.

TFitzPat87

Hey all, I'll spare the details... can someone tell me what is "comparable" to Mopar Engine Oil Supplement? Thanks in advance!

Cane

what can cause the leaf springs to go out of alignment? the bottom spring is shifted on both leaf packs. normal for after market springs (RE)? if i take them out and put it back into place, any way i can prevent this?

https://i.imgur.com/uyrNDX4.jpg

SatiricalHen

Ubolts aren't tight enough, at least that's what it was on mine.

Cane

thanks last time i checked was before winter, i'm probably due!

LACK

That publication is years and years old. Its basically just zinc and phosphorous to aid in break in. Pretty much any name brand oil in todays market is sufficient, without needing the mopar additive.

If you must have it, GM (ac delco) has an assembly lube that is very similar, im sure theres a number of other assembly lubes and additives out there by other oil manufacturers as well.

TFitzPat87

Thanks! That's what I was thinking actually, but didn't have enough knowledge to know for sure.

bhennessee1

I haven't been on cf in a long time. I have a 2000 4.0 auto that doesn't want to start without priming several times. The problem is much worse when the motor is hot. If I recall correctly, this is usually a problem with the fuel check valve. Does that sound right? I'm thinking this may be two issues maybe the check valve is bad and other problems are causeing it to sputter and moss when it's hot?

NewKindOfClown

Go away

But really, you're on the right track. Problem A is a bad check valve, and Problem B is heat soak causing the gas in the fuel rail to evaporate.

Basslicks

I don't know anything about the Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, but I'll say Marvel Mystery Oil is about the only thing I'd put in the crankcase OTHER than engine oil. Does that help at all?

I say "other than", but it's more "in addition to". Supplement 1 quart of oil for MMO. You can also put it in your fuel tank for a good fuel system cleaner (might want to replace your fuel filter afterwards though).

NewKindOfClown

Supplant*

Ralph77

Have the chance to buy a Brand New Mopar Fuel Pump Assembly for my '00 for $200. Seeing how the Bosch one on Amazon cost the same anybody think the Mopar part would be better?

rcguymike

So I've been racking my brain on why my fuel trims are now negative, new injectors, did a fuel pressure test the other day, was poking around my ODB2 scanner and forgot it does the mode 6 tests, I'm failing TID:11 CID:01 for the upstream O2 sensor, no CEL but I did run it with the MAP sensor, and leaky injector problem for a while. Would that be enough to gunk up the new(as of last year) O2 sensor? Failing with a value of 19, where the Min is supposed to be 48<-whatever that means... Is this enough info to say go ahead and replace it or is there a way to clean it?

Edit: and NGK/NTK is the brand: http://a.co/iERXTeQ