cruiser54

Take one to Napa and look through their catalog.

Ralph77

Yeah go to Napa. They will have a big loose leaf binder near a big display. Find what you need in the book.

rcguymike

Napa is just about the only auto place we don't have up here anymore...used to. We have Auto Zone, Car Quest/Advanced, Autovalue, and of course Amazon...lol

cruiser54

Snag them in a junkyard using a pocket screwdriver. Super glue them in your header panel.

RustyRed96

Hey guys, my driver side rear brake line is rotting out... does anyone know what diameter it is? Or what length I should use for a new one? Thank you

Ralph77

3/16". Buy the copper/nickel alloy lines. You wont be sorry. They make premade ones. What could it be? 20"? That is probably the shortest line on the Jeep. We are talking from on top of the diff to the wheel cylinder right?

Cane

i point my IR gun at the thermostat housing and get around 220*F after a normal drive, and around 230-240 after my commute back from work in traffic (the e-fan kicked on when the IR showed 240)

at those times, the temp gauge reads slightly under 210* for the first reading, and right on the 210* mark during the commute in traffic.

my question is, is it more likely that the IR gun gives a reading too high or that both temp sensors give a reading too low? what's the ideal place to point the IR gun for coolant reading? upper radiator hose?

thanks

MarkusBett

Greetings! I recently got a stock 99 Jeep Cherokee XJ, I have always loved the way a built jeep looks and I wanted to build mine. I want a 4.5" lift kit with 31" to 32" tires. But everyone is saying that a 4.5" lift kit is too much work, I was wondering if that's true. I am not a car genus and I'm no mechanic but I can do plenty with installing parts. Thank you for reading and responding!

Best of Luck

-Markus

kgm

P&W are needed, so I'm doing that when I have time. Luckily my muffler broke off too, so I need some good jeep time ha ha.

Ethan94

My fuel sending unit is shot and I'm looking for a new one for an 87 2.5l xj and I'm seeing a lot that specify for the 4.0. Is there a difference between them? Or would it work just fine? I'm having trouble finding one for a 2.5l so figured if there's no real difference just get one.

Ethan94

there's a few things I need help

1. I don't know what the air output on my mechanical fan is, so I don't know the minimum I'd need in an electric fan?

2. I have seen many advertised specifically for the 4.0 as far as the fitting goes would there be a difference between an 87 2.5 and 87 4.0?

3. A lot of what I read says their fans are coming on 215-220, I would prefer the fan came on sooner. How would I go about making it either kick on and off as the engine comes on and off or have it turn on at 190-200? Which is the normal operating temp of my jeep currently.

The purpose for the fan is the added hp and mpg I've heard about, I don't plan on doing any water crossings and I plan on mild-moderate off-roading this is my DD and having overheated the engine once and lost my savings account regretfulling rebuilding it (3,500$) instead of doing an engine swap I'm rather afraid of any temp over 210

4 any recommendations on fans? That aren't the 500$ triple fan setups, preferably a very cost effective one for under a few hundred

Basslicks

Thermostat housing is where you want to point your IR gun. What IR gun are you using? Is it Harbor Freight or something of higher quality? Is your sensor and sender OEM, new-old stock, MOPAR replacement, or aftermarket? It's hard to tell you which is giving you the false reading without knowing this. 210* is normal operating temp for the Jeep.... it will fluctuate between 210-220. 230 is about where the fan should be kicking on, but 240 isn't crazy high either for a stop and go commute.

I wouldn't say it's too much work, it just requires more parts.

Click for full res

That being said, I wouldn't discourage you from doing it. You can do it in your driveway with hand tools, a jack, and some jackstands. I lifted mine before I had the tools I have now, I used the factory crank-up bottle jack, ratchets with cheater bars, and cinder blocks. Mine is a 3.5" lift, but the principle is the same. You're just unbolting parts, removing them, and installing new parts and torquing them down.

There's a lot of good information here on the forums for tips and tricks on the install as well. Definitely invest in a decent torque wrench. You don't want to "guess" on torque spec with these lift kits.

lol... right on.

Why do you want the fan to come on sooner that 220? That's already a little too soon for it to kick on. 210-220 is normal operating temperature. The 4.0 lives there. Having your 4.0 run at 190-200 is killing its efficiency.

Ralph77

So the previous owner of my '00 had tints put in. They turned purple. Bugs me. Awhile back I got a quote for $250 to remove and replace with. Thing is I would rather have factory tinted glass. Found some at the boneyard. For big and little windows in the back doors, cargo bay windows, and rear hatch with a defogger window they want $200. Does that seem reasonable? Is it possible to put a meter on the connectors of the hatch window to check continuity to see if it works properly? I am going to track down a cargo bay leak. Removed the hatch plastic and while nothing is jumping out at me leaning towards it being part of the seal at the top. Thinking a remove and replace would be the best way to fix this instead of just gunking it up more. Going to hit it with some water today to see if I am right. So since it might play out like that thinking maybe just go for the tinted glass.

Basslicks

$200 bucks for a full privacy glass conversion in good shape? I'd say that's pretty good.You'll still have to have film tint applied to the front windows if you want them tinted though. As far as testing the defroster, you should be able to hook up an multimeter to the contacts and switch it to the continuity symbol

Ralph77

Thanks. Kind of figured you could test the continuity with a meter to see if the defroster tape was broken anywhere. Was thinking $200 was more then fair. Especially since the retint is $250. Plus maybe I can make a couple bucks on my old glass. I figure I can handle the door and cargo bay windows but might let a professional deal with the hatch. I got a guy. No desire tint the front windows. They did not come from the factory like that and I have no idea what the laws in my state are and don't feel like finding out the hard way.