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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l
Mine is an 87 xj 2.5l and based off the aftermarket temp gauge mine stays at 190-200.
Last edited by Ethan94; 06-08-2017 at 05:50 AM.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
So before I go outside and start working on the Jeep again figure give another go at trying to understand air tool specs. The compressor is a 30 gallon, 155PSI, with 5.3CFM @90PSI. Does that mean an impact that say MAXIMUM AIR FLOW 5.9 CFM is too much. Still eyeballing that dewalt DWMT70773L. It has 3 year warranty. I can get it through the store for about $110. And found one on Ebay for $85, says new not refurbished, with free shipping. Figure it this way. Not like it is going to be running all day. If I have to wait for the tank to fill up a little while trying to get a nut off no big deal. One good thing about not having a life. My time is not valuable. LOL.
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Greetings! I recently got a stock 99 Jeep Cherokee XJ, I have always loved the way a built jeep looks and I wanted to build mine. I want a 4.5" lift kit with 31" to 32" tires. But everyone is saying that a 4.5" lift kit is too much work, I was wondering if that's true. I am not a car genus and I'm no mechanic but I can do plenty with installing parts. Thank you for reading and responding!
Best of Luck
-Markus
Best of Luck
-Markus
i did a 4-ish inch lift on mine in my driveway.. and that list Basslicks posted is a good reference guide. From what i have read, certain parts aren't always necessary (like the SYE for example). Some jeeps can get away without certain parts and others can't.
i'm currently on 30" A/Ts that were on my xj when i bought it in April. i did a add-a-leaf (2") and a 2" shackle for the rear and i found some 3" skyjacker springs for the front at a junkyard. I added a 2" spacer to the front and it seems to sit pretty darn close to level (with the exception of my sagging d/s rear leaf but that will be replaced eventually).
no t-case drop, no SYE, and i don't seem to have any drivetrain vibs.
still need to replace the shocks and do something about the brake lines
if you do the install yourself... just make sure everything is tightened properly... i had a castle nut work itself just barely loose on the D/S... and death wobble got progressively worse on a 120mile drive.
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
So the previous owner of my '00 had tints put in. They turned purple. Bugs me. Awhile back I got a quote for $250 to remove and replace with. Thing is I would rather have factory tinted glass. Found some at the boneyard. For big and little windows in the back doors, cargo bay windows, and rear hatch with a defogger window they want $200. Does that seem reasonable? Is it possible to put a meter on the connectors of the hatch window to check continuity to see if it works properly? I am going to track down a cargo bay leak. Removed the hatch plastic and while nothing is jumping out at me leaning towards it being part of the seal at the top. Thinking a remove and replace would be the best way to fix this instead of just gunking it up more. Going to hit it with some water today to see if I am right. So since it might play out like that thinking maybe just go for the tinted glass.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
CT. Thinking the shipping would kill any kind of a good deal. Plus as you pointed out them arriving in one piece is probably iffy at best.
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
yeah, after padding and all that... sucks too cuz they are pretty much pristine. i gutted a set of doors to do my half door project (that hasn't been touched in a month)
Senior Member
i point my IR gun at the thermostat housing and get around 220*F after a normal drive, and around 230-240 after my commute back from work in traffic (the e-fan kicked on when the IR showed 240)
at those times, the temp gauge reads slightly under 210* for the first reading, and right on the 210* mark during the commute in traffic.
my question is, is it more likely that the IR gun gives a reading too high or that both temp sensors give a reading too low? what's the ideal place to point the IR gun for coolant reading? upper radiator hose?
thanks
at those times, the temp gauge reads slightly under 210* for the first reading, and right on the 210* mark during the commute in traffic.
my question is, is it more likely that the IR gun gives a reading too high or that both temp sensors give a reading too low? what's the ideal place to point the IR gun for coolant reading? upper radiator hose?
thanks
You can buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter for cheap and use an app like Torque to get readings from the computer to get something more precise. I have a scangauge that I bought 15 years ago before those bluetooth adapters were available and leave it running all the time, but today I'd buy an UltraGauge instead.
Both my scangauge and the obd2 bluetooth adapters I have report the same thing you are seeing.
Like you and BassLicks said, hitting the temp sensor housing with an IR gun is the most accurate method because it takes out any errors in the sensor itself (but introduces its own errors if it's not a high-quality gun). That's a little hard to do while trucking down the interstate, though.
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Anybody ever regrease your seat adjuster slides? I figure prepping to POR 15 them, cleaner/degreaser, risne, metal prep, and then rinse again I washed away some of the grease. They still seem to move alright but figure it wouldn't hurt. Was thinking maybe this:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MCC1394
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MCC1394
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
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165 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by wizardpc
The gauge in your instrument cluster is an idiot gauge. It gives you a ~210 reading until you get to 255 or so, then it will jump up to 260 and the check gauges light will come on. Ask me how I know.
You can buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter for cheap and use an app like Torque to get readings from the computer to get something more precise. I have a scangauge that I bought 15 years ago before those bluetooth adapters were available and leave it running all the time, but today I'd buy an UltraGauge instead.
Both my scangauge and the obd2 bluetooth adapters I have report the same thing you are seeing.
Like you and BassLicks said, hitting the temp sensor housing with an IR gun is the most accurate method because it takes out any errors in the sensor itself (but introduces its own errors if it's not a high-quality gun). That's a little hard to do while trucking down the interstate, though.
You can buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter for cheap and use an app like Torque to get readings from the computer to get something more precise. I have a scangauge that I bought 15 years ago before those bluetooth adapters were available and leave it running all the time, but today I'd buy an UltraGauge instead.
Both my scangauge and the obd2 bluetooth adapters I have report the same thing you are seeing.
Like you and BassLicks said, hitting the temp sensor housing with an IR gun is the most accurate method because it takes out any errors in the sensor itself (but introduces its own errors if it's not a high-quality gun). That's a little hard to do while trucking down the interstate, though.
Gas
My Cherokee I bought has 1/4 of gas in the tank and it seems like it sat for a while and that the gas is most likely fairly old.
So to the question would it be okay to mix in some new premium gas because it is kinda running rough and seems like its running rich and doesnt want to ignite the fuel well and backfires in the exhaust I am gonna replace the spark plugs as well and just to specify it is a 88 Cherokee Chief with a 90 4.0
So to the question would it be okay to mix in some new premium gas because it is kinda running rough and seems like its running rich and doesnt want to ignite the fuel well and backfires in the exhaust I am gonna replace the spark plugs as well and just to specify it is a 88 Cherokee Chief with a 90 4.0
CF Veteran
How long is a while. I can let my CJ snow plowing Jeep sit from one winter to the next with no problem. Of course it is carbureted. Got good fuel pressure? If so add 5gal of gas along with a bottle of dry gas to get rid of any water from moisture.
I'm gonna guess 1 year maybe more I'm not really sure. And about fuel pressure again I'm not sure I think so though (Sorry about not being certain all my tools are packed up being I'm moving soon)