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XJ Ask the Question Thread
No, I don't lick fish.
That poor truck. I'm still mad at kuzican for not getting video of my Wrangler going 3.5ft up in the air
Attachment 302373
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https://www.youtube.com/embed/E3EJEenCWHo?rel=0
She was good to me, though. I drove the truck 9 hours back to Ohio the next day and then brought my Kawi back to Maryland
Attachment 302373
Attachment 302374
Attachment 302375
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Attachment 302377
https://www.youtube.com/embed/E3EJEenCWHo?rel=0
She was good to me, though. I drove the truck 9 hours back to Ohio the next day and then brought my Kawi back to Maryland
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Serious water fording requires a LOT of expense. Vehicles built for that have pressurized axles to keep the water out.
Newbie
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Year: 1996 Limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
xj 96 cluster problem
xj 96 signal high beams not show cluster Accelerate the turn signal lights up, help guide how to repair it.
thank you sir
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l
So then the valves should be fully closed all the time? They were open since I bought it
Last edited by Ethan94; 06-29-2017 at 08:16 AM.
No, I don't lick fish.
Senior Member
The AC service valves were a long-time AMC feature, they used 'em from the first Nash air conditioning system in 1954 until the company's end in 1987. (Not sure how long Chrysler continued them in the XJ.)
The "SERVICE VALVES" section in the following page from the 1975 AMC service manual illustrates how they work. (In my initial description from memory I may have reversed the "front-seated" and "back-seated" descriptions.)
Basically what you want to do is crack open the valve for servicing (turn in clockwise a few turns). Put it back in the normal operating position (full counterclockwise) when done. There are no schrader valves used so it is important that you connect your gauge set hoses before cracking the valves open.
The "SERVICE VALVES" section in the following page from the 1975 AMC service manual illustrates how they work. (In my initial description from memory I may have reversed the "front-seated" and "back-seated" descriptions.)
Basically what you want to do is crack open the valve for servicing (turn in clockwise a few turns). Put it back in the normal operating position (full counterclockwise) when done. There are no schrader valves used so it is important that you connect your gauge set hoses before cracking the valves open.
Last edited by Rambler65; 06-30-2017 at 07:17 AM. Reason: Use 1975 manual page, is clearer than 1965 page
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l
Basically what you want to do is crack open the valve for servicing (turn in clockwise a few turns). Put it back in the normal operating position (full counterclockwise) when done. There are no schrader valves used so it is important that you connect your gauge set hoses before cracking the valves open.
turned out there was a hole in the hose, only found that after a puddle appeared and had to buy more after fixing the hose but it works now, a little late but the triple digits won't be as bad now
Last edited by Ethan94; 06-30-2017 at 08:27 AM.
No, I don't lick fish.
The AC service valves were a long-time AMC feature, they used 'em from the first Nash air conditioning system in 1954 until the company's end in 1987. (Not sure how long Chrysler continued them in the XJ.)
The "SERVICE VALVES" section in the following page from the 1975 AMC service manual illustrates how they work. (In my initial description from memory I may have reversed the "front-seated" and "back-seated" descriptions.)
Basically what you want to do is crack open the valve for servicing (turn in clockwise a few turns). Put it back in the normal operating position (full counterclockwise) when done. There are no schrader valves used so it is important that you connect your gauge set hoses before cracking the valves open.
The "SERVICE VALVES" section in the following page from the 1975 AMC service manual illustrates how they work. (In my initial description from memory I may have reversed the "front-seated" and "back-seated" descriptions.)
Basically what you want to do is crack open the valve for servicing (turn in clockwise a few turns). Put it back in the normal operating position (full counterclockwise) when done. There are no schrader valves used so it is important that you connect your gauge set hoses before cracking the valves open.
Glad we got ya fixed up man.
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Engine: 2.5l
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Dumb question. When wiring a relay with no 87a pin usage, does it matter whether you use pin 30 or pin 87 as the input from your 12v source? I mistakenly wired some relays with my 12v starting at pin 87. If this will be detrimental, I'll redo the wiring. Thanks!
Radiator Fan Control Relay
I have recently acquired a 2000 XJ, have to get it emission checked and check engine light is on. It will not pass with the light on. I used a code scanner and the message says P1491 - Radiator fan relay control circuit. I can reset the codes, but the check engine light comes right back on at next start. I assume the auxilary fan was plugged into the wiring loom somewhere, but is now bypassed. The fan is now wired to a different relay (says Ford on it) atttached to the inside of the passenger fender under the hood, with wiring ran thru the firewall to the inside and has a switch attached to manually turn it off and on.
My question is, where was the fan originally plugged in and can it be jumpered or something to get rid of the code and keep the check engine light off?
My question is, where was the fan originally plugged in and can it be jumpered or something to get rid of the code and keep the check engine light off?
No, I don't lick fish.
Yup. R12 converted to R134. You're probably right, they probably did away with those fittings with the new R134 systems.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cyl
I cannot figure out how to start a new post! I read this site constantly but could never find where to post anything. I've got a quick question. I bought a new track bar and when crawling under I noticed that its actually my drag link that needs replacing. I can twist it and there's plenty of play on the boot. My question is, do i have to replace the tie rod at the same time or can I just dio the drag link?
Thanks!
Oh it's a 97 XJ
Thanks!
Oh it's a 97 XJ
No, I don't lick fish.
I cannot figure out how to start a new post! I read this site constantly but could never find where to post anything. I've got a quick question. I bought a new track bar and when crawling under I noticed that its actually my drag link that needs replacing. I can twist it and there's plenty of play on the boot. My question is, do i have to replace the tie rod at the same time or can I just dio the drag link?
Thanks!
Oh it's a 97 XJ
Thanks!
Oh it's a 97 XJ
But for a question like this, posting in this thread is perfectly fine
As far as your second problem, yes you can. It would be advisable to replace the tie rod soon though because these typically wear within the same time frame.