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XJ Ask the Question Thread
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
is there such a thing as torquing the shackle end of the leaf spring too much? i have a squeaky noise in the rear and noticed it comes from the leaf eye bolted to the shackle. the bushing seems to be "squished" together for a lack of a better word.
i used factory specs (80 or 90 ft/pound if i remember correctly) but wondering if i should unbolt it and try less torque, maybe with loctite?
i used factory specs (80 or 90 ft/pound if i remember correctly) but wondering if i should unbolt it and try less torque, maybe with loctite?
drive around the block hitting some bumps. Then, torque them.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yes, there is, and if it binds it can affect your ride and articulation/flex. The proper torque is 80ft.lbs, but would be considerably less than that if the bolt is greased or anti-seize is used. Some say you should use 1/2 the torque if the fastener is greased.
I personally just "snug" them up, because the factory bolts have thread locker on them that will keep them from loosening anyway. Mine are nowhere near the torque spec, but I check them when I'm under there and they have never backed out.
I personally just "snug" them up, because the factory bolts have thread locker on them that will keep them from loosening anyway. Mine are nowhere near the torque spec, but I check them when I'm under there and they have never backed out.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Got my 3 link set up in the mail today. Went to take a look at the crossmember bolted up to the frame and i see that 1) the bolts that I got for the crossmember support are too big for the factory crossmember weld nut and 2) theres a stud where one of these new bolts is supposed to go.
I reckon im gonna have to drill and tap these spots for the crossmember bolts. Is that accurate?
Here you can see the three bolts that hold the crossmember up. The OEM crossmember had a stud and a weld nut for a much smaller bolt than came with this 3 link kit.
I reckon im gonna have to drill and tap these spots for the crossmember bolts. Is that accurate?
Here you can see the three bolts that hold the crossmember up. The OEM crossmember had a stud and a weld nut for a much smaller bolt than came with this 3 link kit.
Flex plate position
I had issues with a cracked flexplate went to the junkyard replaced it I have a 91 Jeep Cherokee 2 wheel drive picked up another one that came off of a 94 looked identical everything lined up I saw no difference installed it after I installed it couldn't get the timing right tried over and over number one cylinder top dead center lined up the crankshaft on the front you know but the. And the line got the oil at 11 put the button at 5 on the distributor steel does not fire and consistently tried to check the crankshaft sensor now I find out that I might not have the flexplate lined up can anyone tell me how to check where the flexplate lines to the engine or do I have the wrong flexplate tried just about everything been working on it for 3 days straight ready to pull my hair out
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
Drilled out my track bar hole to 1/2" to try and cure death wobble and readjusted it, I still have wobble. Theres a new steering stabilizer too, would worn out tie rod ends and ball joints cause it, I did just roll over to 190k so I'm sure they're due to be done anyway.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Just looking for some cheap mods and things I can do
So I’ve had my XJ for a few months now and so far I’ve got a two inch lift on it and put in new speakers and just fixed a few problems. Now I wanna get into doing a few things to really make it mine if you know what I mean. I was kinda looking for a roof rack and wondering what are some cheap but good options and the same for some fog lights or a top mounted light bar. I’m also open to any ideas but if they could be in the cheaper range that would be awesome. Just some suggestions on what I should get done next would be awesome!!
Last edited by John-Matthew Lawson; 09-11-2017 at 09:06 PM.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
IAC
I have a 98 xj that ive owned for about a month now. When ever i would start it, it would idle really high for a few seconds. Then yesterday seemed to be idling kindof rough while stopped at lights, etc. I read on here to clean the throttle body and IAC. I cleaned both with brake cleaner and a rag / Q-tips and re-installed. Now the jeep wont idle at all! It will start if i give it some gas but will die immediately if i let off the throttle.
does it sound like my problem was the IAC all along and cleaning just made it worse somehow? Or do I have some other problem going on?
Thank you
does it sound like my problem was the IAC all along and cleaning just made it worse somehow? Or do I have some other problem going on?
Thank you
No, I don't lick fish.
Drilled out my track bar hole to 1/2" to try and cure death wobble and readjusted it, I still have wobble. Theres a new steering stabilizer too, would worn out tie rod ends and ball joints cause it, I did just roll over to 190k so I'm sure they're due to be done anyway.
Click for full res
Also, check your caster angle and your control arm bushings.
I have a 98 xj that ive owned for about a month now. When ever i would start it, it would idle really high for a few seconds. Then yesterday seemed to be idling kindof rough while stopped at lights, etc. I read on here to clean the throttle body and IAC. I cleaned both with brake cleaner and a rag / Q-tips and re-installed. Now the jeep wont idle at all! It will start if i give it some gas but will die immediately if i let off the throttle.
does it sound like my problem was the IAC all along and cleaning just made it worse somehow? Or do I have some other problem going on?
Thank you
does it sound like my problem was the IAC all along and cleaning just made it worse somehow? Or do I have some other problem going on?
Thank you
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
IAC may still have moisture in it from the cleaning. Try it again tomorrow. If it still does it, unplug it, clean the connections really good and put some dielectric grease on the pins.[/QUOTE]
Tried it again this morning. At first it was just a fast clicking like a dead battery, then tried again and it turned over just fine, but didn't start until i gave it some gas. Check engine light also came on this time. Not sure why it wouldn't even crank the first time...
Tried it again this morning. At first it was just a fast clicking like a dead battery, then tried again and it turned over just fine, but didn't start until i gave it some gas. Check engine light also came on this time. Not sure why it wouldn't even crank the first time...
going to be replacing the leaf springs in my jeep. was going to order all new hardware (shackle to frame, and spring eye bolts) and came across this set - http://teamcherokee.com/rear-leaf-sp...kee-1984-2001/
isn't that 2 bolts shy of a "whole set"? dont you need 8? (4 for each side)
and to confirm, the frame and spring eye bolts are the same right?
isn't that 2 bolts shy of a "whole set"? dont you need 8? (4 for each side)
and to confirm, the frame and spring eye bolts are the same right?
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
going to be replacing the leaf springs in my jeep. was going to order all new hardware (shackle to frame, and spring eye bolts) and came across this set - http://teamcherokee.com/rear-leaf-sp...kee-1984-2001/
isn't that 2 bolts shy of a "whole set"? dont you need 8? (4 for each side)
and to confirm, the frame and spring eye bolts are the same right?
isn't that 2 bolts shy of a "whole set"? dont you need 8? (4 for each side)
and to confirm, the frame and spring eye bolts are the same right?
Leaf spring to body
Leaf spring to shackle
Shackle to body
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L6
going to be replacing the leaf springs in my jeep. was going to order all new hardware (shackle to frame, and spring eye bolts) and came across this set - http://teamcherokee.com/rear-leaf-sp...kee-1984-2001/
isn't that 2 bolts shy of a "whole set"? dont you need 8? (4 for each side)
and to confirm, the frame and spring eye bolts are the same right?
isn't that 2 bolts shy of a "whole set"? dont you need 8? (4 for each side)
and to confirm, the frame and spring eye bolts are the same right?
You only need 6 bolts.