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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Seasoned Member
Here's an exhaust question for you.
My 90 XJ with a slushbox does not have a catalytic converter or stock muffler.
All it has is a one inlet/two outlet free flow muffler. Sounds really nice, I gotta say that. A deep throaty sound but not too loud.
Does the lack of back pressure from the catalytic converter and stock muffler have anything to do with engine performance?
Ever since I bought my truck, I've been trying to figure out why it does not have any "oomph" when it downshifts to the "passing gear"
It downshifts fine, but just doesn't seem to have any "get up and go"
Is that because of no back pressure?
My 90 XJ with a slushbox does not have a catalytic converter or stock muffler.
All it has is a one inlet/two outlet free flow muffler. Sounds really nice, I gotta say that. A deep throaty sound but not too loud.
Does the lack of back pressure from the catalytic converter and stock muffler have anything to do with engine performance?
Ever since I bought my truck, I've been trying to figure out why it does not have any "oomph" when it downshifts to the "passing gear"
It downshifts fine, but just doesn't seem to have any "get up and go"
Is that because of no back pressure?
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
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1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here's an exhaust question for you.
My 90 XJ with a slushbox does not have a catalytic converter or stock muffler.
All it has is a one inlet/two outlet free flow muffler. Sounds really nice, I gotta say that. A deep throaty sound but not too loud.
Does the lack of back pressure from the catalytic converter and stock muffler have anything to do with engine performance?
Ever since I bought my truck, I've been trying to figure out why it does not have any "oomph" when it downshifts to the "passing gear"
It downshifts fine, but just doesn't seem to have any "get up and go"
Is that because of no back pressure?
My 90 XJ with a slushbox does not have a catalytic converter or stock muffler.
All it has is a one inlet/two outlet free flow muffler. Sounds really nice, I gotta say that. A deep throaty sound but not too loud.
Does the lack of back pressure from the catalytic converter and stock muffler have anything to do with engine performance?
Ever since I bought my truck, I've been trying to figure out why it does not have any "oomph" when it downshifts to the "passing gear"
It downshifts fine, but just doesn't seem to have any "get up and go"
Is that because of no back pressure?
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Tie rod ends 1990 Cherokee limited
It won't allow me to search on my phone. I'm looking for any info about the stock tie rod ends needed. Part #'s would be great. Are they 11/16 or 20mm.. Right hand thread or left?
No, I don't lick fish.
Here's an exhaust question for you.
My 90 XJ with a slushbox does not have a catalytic converter or stock muffler.
All it has is a one inlet/two outlet free flow muffler. Sounds really nice, I gotta say that. A deep throaty sound but not too loud.
Does the lack of back pressure from the catalytic converter and stock muffler have anything to do with engine performance?
Ever since I bought my truck, I've been trying to figure out why it does not have any "oomph" when it downshifts to the "passing gear"
It downshifts fine, but just doesn't seem to have any "get up and go"
Is that because of no back pressure?
My 90 XJ with a slushbox does not have a catalytic converter or stock muffler.
All it has is a one inlet/two outlet free flow muffler. Sounds really nice, I gotta say that. A deep throaty sound but not too loud.
Does the lack of back pressure from the catalytic converter and stock muffler have anything to do with engine performance?
Ever since I bought my truck, I've been trying to figure out why it does not have any "oomph" when it downshifts to the "passing gear"
It downshifts fine, but just doesn't seem to have any "get up and go"
Is that because of no back pressure?
No, I don't lick fish.
and
ES2223R 11/16" RH thread
You need a RH thread and a LH thread. These ends thread into the stock adjusting sleeve (DS1045S) and acts as the "tie rod"
The other parts you're seeing (w/ 20mm threads) are the components for the drag link (DS1046 20mm RH thread - long end, ES2222L 20mm LH thread short end, and ES2080S adjuster sleeve)
Let me know if you're interested in upgrading to the beefier, solid V8 Grand Cherokee tie rod setup. I have part numbers for those too.
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 91
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3 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Misfire issue
Hello,
1993 Cherokee 4.0 with 165k miles. Items replaced in last year:
Cap and rotor
Plugs
Plug wires
TPS
Coolant temp sensor
O2 sensor
It runs rough when first driving, doesn't seem to misfire when WOT. Goes away some after driving for awhile. Not really sure what else to check. Any help would be appreciated.
Error codes 12 and 17 come up. Temp gauge works.
1993 Cherokee 4.0 with 165k miles. Items replaced in last year:
Cap and rotor
Plugs
Plug wires
TPS
Coolant temp sensor
O2 sensor
It runs rough when first driving, doesn't seem to misfire when WOT. Goes away some after driving for awhile. Not really sure what else to check. Any help would be appreciated.
Error codes 12 and 17 come up. Temp gauge works.
No, I don't lick fish.
Hello,
1993 Cherokee 4.0 with 165k miles. Items replaced in last year:
Cap and rotor
Plugs
Plug wires
TPS
Coolant temp sensor
O2 sensor
It runs rough when first driving, doesn't seem to misfire when WOT. Goes away some after driving for awhile. Not really sure what else to check. Any help would be appreciated.
Error codes 12 and 17 come up. Temp gauge works.
1993 Cherokee 4.0 with 165k miles. Items replaced in last year:
Cap and rotor
Plugs
Plug wires
TPS
Coolant temp sensor
O2 sensor
It runs rough when first driving, doesn't seem to misfire when WOT. Goes away some after driving for awhile. Not really sure what else to check. Any help would be appreciated.
Error codes 12 and 17 come up. Temp gauge works.
17 on the other hand, is where your problem lies.
"17 Engine did not reach operating temperature within acceptable limits"
Get an IR temp gun and point it at the thermostat housing. Temp gauges on the dash are known for their inaccuracy. For instance, when mine is at 210*, the gauge reads 240. Verify that the engine is operating at 210 with the IR gun at the thermostat housing and how long it takes to get it to that temp. If it takes forever or doesn't reach that temp at all, you may need to at the very least replace the thermostat with a quality 195* stat.... or even give more attention to your coolant system.
Seasoned Member
I had a V6 vehicle a while back that a muffler shop put a restrictive muffler on it, and it would barely get out of it's own way.
I also got a check engine light about an hour after it was installed.
Ended up taking it back and having a different muffler installed. Check engine light went off within minutes, and the vehicle ran like a new car (quietly)
I understand restricted airflow is one thing, but I wasn't sure about the lack of restriction.
Thanks!
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 91
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3 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Code 12 means the battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts. You can ignore that, it's purely informational.
17 on the other hand, is where your problem lies.
"17 Engine did not reach operating temperature within acceptable limits"
Get an IR temp gun and point it at the thermostat housing. Temp gauges on the dash are known for their inaccuracy. For instance, when mine is at 210*, the gauge reads 240. Verify that the engine is operating at 210 with the IR gun at the thermostat housing and how long it takes to get it to that temp. If it takes forever or doesn't reach that temp at all, you may need to at the very least replace the thermostat with a quality 195* stat.... or even give more attention to your coolant system.
17 on the other hand, is where your problem lies.
"17 Engine did not reach operating temperature within acceptable limits"
Get an IR temp gun and point it at the thermostat housing. Temp gauges on the dash are known for their inaccuracy. For instance, when mine is at 210*, the gauge reads 240. Verify that the engine is operating at 210 with the IR gun at the thermostat housing and how long it takes to get it to that temp. If it takes forever or doesn't reach that temp at all, you may need to at the very least replace the thermostat with a quality 195* stat.... or even give more attention to your coolant system.
It may not be reaching 210 since I have been driving only 6 mi work with AC on so both fans run.
*edit
Just ran it to 210*+ and it still is running weird. Is there a connector from one of the temp sensors that may be messed up?
Last edited by charbur; 10-06-2017 at 10:37 AM.
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Tool to drive in extension housing seal?
A few weeks ago I replaced the extension housing seal (the seal around the driveshaft at the back of the transmission; people use different names for it) and now the leak is worse. I’m thinking I didn’t get it seated properly, and need to try again. Haynes says to pound it in with a big socket or piece of pipe, but I’ve looked all over Home Depot for anything of the right diameter, and can’t find it. Anybody have a suggestion for getting this bugger in right?
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 6
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0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
1991 Cherokee Laredo 4.0l 4WD Fuel Tank
First time on this site. Replacing the fuel tank on this Jeep. Vin# calls for a 20 gallon tank. Removed the old tank (original) and it has the filler tube and vent lines running inside the tank along the top and then 90 degree toward the bottom of the tank. Found one article online that says this is a 13.5 gallon tank (not 20 gallon). The article says Chrysler used the same size (outer dimensions) for the 20 gallon and 13.5 gallon tank back in the day. The only difference was the filler tube and vent tube that continued to run inside the tank. Anyone familiar with this year of Jeep and can confirm what the article said? Don't see any problem going to the 20 gallon tank now other than making sure the new pump has the correct sending unit. Thanks for any help.
No, I don't lick fish.
The one into two free flow muffler is just that; 2.5 in and out.
I had a V6 vehicle a while back that a muffler shop put a restrictive muffler on it, and it would barely get out of it's own way.
I also got a check engine light about an hour after it was installed.
Ended up taking it back and having a different muffler installed. Check engine light went off within minutes, and the vehicle ran like a new car (quietly)
I understand restricted airflow is one thing, but I wasn't sure about the lack of restriction.
Thanks!
I had a V6 vehicle a while back that a muffler shop put a restrictive muffler on it, and it would barely get out of it's own way.
I also got a check engine light about an hour after it was installed.
Ended up taking it back and having a different muffler installed. Check engine light went off within minutes, and the vehicle ran like a new car (quietly)
I understand restricted airflow is one thing, but I wasn't sure about the lack of restriction.
Thanks!
Thank you for the information. Does it need to reach 210* within a certain amount of time to clear that code? I have a mechanical aftermarket gauge also. I replaced the TStat within the last 2 years and I'm 90% sure it is a 195*. I can definitely replace that again.
It may not be reaching 210 since I have been driving only 6 mi work with AC on so both fans run.
*edit
Just ran it to 210*+ and it still is running weird. Is there a connector from one of the temp sensors that may be messed up?
It may not be reaching 210 since I have been driving only 6 mi work with AC on so both fans run.
*edit
Just ran it to 210*+ and it still is running weird. Is there a connector from one of the temp sensors that may be messed up?
First time on this site. Replacing the fuel tank on this Jeep. Vin# calls for a 20 gallon tank. Removed the old tank (original) and it has the filler tube and vent lines running inside the tank along the top and then 90 degree toward the bottom of the tank. Found one article online that says this is a 13.5 gallon tank (not 20 gallon). The article says Chrysler used the same size (outer dimensions) for the 20 gallon and 13.5 gallon tank back in the day. The only difference was the filler tube and vent tube that continued to run inside the tank. Anyone familiar with this year of Jeep and can confirm what the article said? Don't see any problem going to the 20 gallon tank now other than making sure the new pump has the correct sending unit. Thanks for any help.
http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoFuelTank.htm
I managed to get about 23 gallons capacity out of mine doing this.
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2017
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
cherokee fuel tank
Did you verify the temperature with an IR temp gun pointed at the thermostat housing or are you going by the gauge on the dash?
If your VIN calls for a 20 gallon tank, it should be a 20 gallon tank. The filler tube will bend downward toward the bottom of the tank, the vent tube should be, more or less, straight out. You can "cheat" the capacity of the tank by putting an elbow on that vent tube making it act like a "snorkel" up out of the level of the gasoline. The tank itself can hold up to 25+ gallons, it's the vent tube that limits the amount of fuel below that capacity.
http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoFuelTank.htm
I managed to get about 23 gallons capacity out of mine doing this.