Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
on
1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
on
1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
on
1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I keep running into conflicting information, dead old hyperlinks, and broken Photobucket images, and I'm tired of searching. People keep mixing information from Renix, mid-model, late-model, early TJ, late TJ, 2.5L, 4.0L..... I can't keep track of all the conversations going in each thread that I try to read.
I'm looking to swap the alternator in my '93 YJ (same configuration as a '93 XJ) to either the 136A ZJ or the 160A Dodge option.
Can someone tell me whether or not the 160A will work with my PCM, and show a picture of exactly what I have to grind to mount one of the larger alternator bodies?
(I will be upgrading my power cables along with the swap)
I'm looking to swap the alternator in my '93 YJ (same configuration as a '93 XJ) to either the 136A ZJ or the 160A Dodge option.
Can someone tell me whether or not the 160A will work with my PCM, and show a picture of exactly what I have to grind to mount one of the larger alternator bodies?
(I will be upgrading my power cables along with the swap)
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Oil Pan Gasket Replacement Front Axle Space Requirement
NEWBI POSTING...- I hope this is where this post/reply goes –
Targeting - (OEM XJ Cherokee Technical. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here - XJ (84-01)
My Vehicle - 1996 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 Automatic 2WD Stock Suspension (Not Lifted)
OK, after reading as many posts as I can find the time for and before I start the task of replacing the leaky Oil Pan Gasket.I know there’s interference dropping/removal of the pan with the front axle.My question to anyone that may know here is,How much clearance is required between the pan/ gasket surface and the top of the front axle to adequately install and at least not be juggling or needing to maneuver pan & gasket through and between bearing caps or oil pump, sump & AXLE, etc. Is it a doable for a one person jobber? How do I make sure to have enough space to do it right, without gagging up the gasket before it gets in place with pan?
Thank you for your time.
Targeting - (OEM XJ Cherokee Technical. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here - XJ (84-01)
My Vehicle - 1996 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 Automatic 2WD Stock Suspension (Not Lifted)
OK, after reading as many posts as I can find the time for and before I start the task of replacing the leaky Oil Pan Gasket.I know there’s interference dropping/removal of the pan with the front axle.My question to anyone that may know here is,How much clearance is required between the pan/ gasket surface and the top of the front axle to adequately install and at least not be juggling or needing to maneuver pan & gasket through and between bearing caps or oil pump, sump & AXLE, etc. Is it a doable for a one person jobber? How do I make sure to have enough space to do it right, without gagging up the gasket before it gets in place with pan?
Thank you for your time.
01 NSS no start problem after trany fix.
Sorry for the book but I need some ideas, Lets see if anyone else has had a similar issue. 01 sport 240k. Started getting an intermittent metal on metal noise, 2 days later the noise stops and the trany went into neutral in every gear. After removing oil cooler lines and starting it I noticed there was no pressure so I started thinking torque converter/oil pump problem (Mind you the jeep started every time no problem) so I went to remove the aw4 and noticed one of the big bolts on the side of the bell housing was missing and it looked to be maybe an 8th inch separated from the motor. So I removed the aw4 and torque converter to find the end of the oil pump shaft was slightly damaged (the metal on metal noise I was hearing) so I replaced the oil pump and torque converter then reinstalled the aw4. This isn't my first time so I know everything is hooked up properly but now the jeep wont start...? Good voltage and everything works in the interior, just hear the relay click when I turn the key. Then I noticed I had no reverse lights so I went to the NSS. Made sure the connector was clean/tight still nothing. So then I tried the good ole NSS bypass just to see if it would start. I started with the connector dissconected and jumped the 7 and 8 pin with a paperclip, from what everyone says that should give me reverse lights and allow the jeep to start in any gear...but got nothing....? So then I plugged the connector back together and stripped just a little bit of the 7 and 8 wires and jumped them with the paperclip....this gave me reserve lights but still no start....? Already went threw, checked then swapped all the fuses and relays just to be sure. What should I look for next? Ignition switch? What would cause my NSS Or ignition switch to act this way out of no where? Only other thing I can think of is the blinkers stopped working like 3 days before the noise started. The flashers would work, but I noticed the day I went to pull the trany that after a short time working underneath the blinkers started working again....? Any input that I haven't already covered would be appreciated thanks
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 4,481
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
14 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
NEWBI POSTING...- I hope this is where this post/reply goes –
Targeting - (OEM XJ Cherokee Technical. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here - XJ (84-01)
My Vehicle - 1996 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 Automatic 2WD Stock Suspension (Not Lifted)
OK, after reading as many posts as I can find the time for and before I start the task of replacing the leaky Oil Pan Gasket.I know there’s interference dropping/removal of the pan with the front axle.My question to anyone that may know here is,How much clearance is required between the pan/ gasket surface and the top of the front axle to adequately install and at least not be juggling or needing to maneuver pan & gasket through and between bearing caps or oil pump, sump & AXLE, etc. Is it a doable for a one person jobber? How do I make sure to have enough space to do it right, without gagging up the gasket before it gets in place with pan?
Thank you for your time.
Targeting - (OEM XJ Cherokee Technical. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here - XJ (84-01)
My Vehicle - 1996 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 Automatic 2WD Stock Suspension (Not Lifted)
OK, after reading as many posts as I can find the time for and before I start the task of replacing the leaky Oil Pan Gasket.I know there’s interference dropping/removal of the pan with the front axle.My question to anyone that may know here is,How much clearance is required between the pan/ gasket surface and the top of the front axle to adequately install and at least not be juggling or needing to maneuver pan & gasket through and between bearing caps or oil pump, sump & AXLE, etc. Is it a doable for a one person jobber? How do I make sure to have enough space to do it right, without gagging up the gasket before it gets in place with pan?
Thank you for your time.
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Valrico FL
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
XJ starting/cranking issues
I actually posted about this same problems before, same problem is rearing its aggravating head once again.
I've replaced the battery twice now, new negative terminal connector (soldered on) had the alternater checked out. Dude at the parts store said it was good. To my knowledge i didn't have anything running in the background to cause a dead battery again (lights, accessories, etc).
I've already done a tune up and the starter was replaced, but not by me. I dont know if this is related or not but the ignition switch/lock cylinder has been giving us problems since I've owned the vehicle. Only in the sense that the key won't turn and sometimes after it does and it's started and running the airbag light will stay on unless i turn the key back just a tad. Could there be a bad connection in my ignition switch that's causing this repeated dead battery? What else could it be?
I've replaced the battery twice now, new negative terminal connector (soldered on) had the alternater checked out. Dude at the parts store said it was good. To my knowledge i didn't have anything running in the background to cause a dead battery again (lights, accessories, etc).
I've already done a tune up and the starter was replaced, but not by me. I dont know if this is related or not but the ignition switch/lock cylinder has been giving us problems since I've owned the vehicle. Only in the sense that the key won't turn and sometimes after it does and it's started and running the airbag light will stay on unless i turn the key back just a tad. Could there be a bad connection in my ignition switch that's causing this repeated dead battery? What else could it be?
No, I don't lick fish.
In this case I'm going to concede to this very good point. If sidewall profile is also being increased along with the wheel diameter then it makes sense. But when you increase wheel diameter and lower the profile of the sidewall without also increasing the diameter of the tire it is very ignorant and impractical for a vehicle designed and marketed to also be used off road.
Take your control arms off and measure them and order some based on the measurements here....
http://energysuspension.com/universa...isolators.html
I keep running into conflicting information, dead old hyperlinks, and broken Photobucket images, and I'm tired of searching. People keep mixing information from Renix, mid-model, late-model, early TJ, late TJ, 2.5L, 4.0L..... I can't keep track of all the conversations going in each thread that I try to read.
I'm looking to swap the alternator in my '93 YJ (same configuration as a '93 XJ) to either the 136A ZJ or the 160A Dodge option.
Can someone tell me whether or not the 160A will work with my PCM, and show a picture of exactly what I have to grind to mount one of the larger alternator bodies?
(I will be upgrading my power cables along with the swap)
I'm looking to swap the alternator in my '93 YJ (same configuration as a '93 XJ) to either the 136A ZJ or the 160A Dodge option.
Can someone tell me whether or not the 160A will work with my PCM, and show a picture of exactly what I have to grind to mount one of the larger alternator bodies?
(I will be upgrading my power cables along with the swap)
As for the 160 - I can't honestly say. I did the 136a XJ alternator and it was 100% compatible with my PCM (remember, mine is a '92 so it's not all that different from your '93)
Part number for the XJ 136a is 13469
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...11065_940035_0
Not really a big deal I guess, but I didn't want a 7 groove pulley with a 5 groove belt.
NEWBI POSTING...- I hope this is where this post/reply goes –
Targeting - (OEM XJ Cherokee Technical. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here - XJ (84-01)
My Vehicle - 1996 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 Automatic 2WD Stock Suspension (Not Lifted)
OK, after reading as many posts as I can find the time for and before I start the task of replacing the leaky Oil Pan Gasket.I know there’s interference dropping/removal of the pan with the front axle.My question to anyone that may know here is,How much clearance is required between the pan/ gasket surface and the top of the front axle to adequately install and at least not be juggling or needing to maneuver pan & gasket through and between bearing caps or oil pump, sump & AXLE, etc. Is it a doable for a one person jobber? How do I make sure to have enough space to do it right, without gagging up the gasket before it gets in place with pan?
Thank you for your time.
Targeting - (OEM XJ Cherokee Technical. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here - XJ (84-01)
My Vehicle - 1996 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 Automatic 2WD Stock Suspension (Not Lifted)
OK, after reading as many posts as I can find the time for and before I start the task of replacing the leaky Oil Pan Gasket.I know there’s interference dropping/removal of the pan with the front axle.My question to anyone that may know here is,How much clearance is required between the pan/ gasket surface and the top of the front axle to adequately install and at least not be juggling or needing to maneuver pan & gasket through and between bearing caps or oil pump, sump & AXLE, etc. Is it a doable for a one person jobber? How do I make sure to have enough space to do it right, without gagging up the gasket before it gets in place with pan?
Thank you for your time.
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I ended up getting the 136A option. The 160A is compatible, but you have to modify the wiring harness and void the warranty on the alternator, which also means another hack job every time you replace it. The 160A is a great option for later model Jeeps, but not ours.
I've also read that the YJ alt bracket doesn't need any grinding, but I don't have my hopes up for that. I really appreciate the image showing where the grinding needs to be done, if I have to.
Worked with XJwonders today to get measurements for a new set of cables to coincide with my heavy duty alternator installation.
I've also read that the YJ alt bracket doesn't need any grinding, but I don't have my hopes up for that. I really appreciate the image showing where the grinding needs to be done, if I have to.
Worked with XJwonders today to get measurements for a new set of cables to coincide with my heavy duty alternator installation.
No, I don't lick fish.
I ended up getting the 136A option. The 160A is compatible, but you have to modify the wiring harness and void the warranty on the alternator, which also means another hack job every time you replace it. The 160A is a great option for later model Jeeps, but not ours.
I've also read that the YJ alt bracket doesn't need any grinding, but I don't have my hopes up for that. I really appreciate the image showing where the grinding needs to be done, if I have to.
Worked with XJwonders today to get measurements for a new set of cables to coincide with my heavy duty alternator installation.
I've also read that the YJ alt bracket doesn't need any grinding, but I don't have my hopes up for that. I really appreciate the image showing where the grinding needs to be done, if I have to.
Worked with XJwonders today to get measurements for a new set of cables to coincide with my heavy duty alternator installation.
Good luck on the bracket, man. If you do end up having to grind it though, it's really not too big a deal. Just remember, it's aluminum so it doesn't take much force and an abrasive grinding wheel will take quite a bit off at a time.