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#6736
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Location: Vancouver, BC
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hi guys!
The boys down at the gas station messed up, and somehow managed to mangle the oil drain plug, whilst doing an oil change.
The plug´s threads are gone ( luckily it looks like the threads in the oil pan is undamaged ).
My engine is an 2.1L , and I can´t find a plug thats specific for that engine on neither teamcherokee.com or quadratec.com.
Would a plug from a 2.5L do?
regards,
Torstein
The boys down at the gas station messed up, and somehow managed to mangle the oil drain plug, whilst doing an oil change.
The plug´s threads are gone ( luckily it looks like the threads in the oil pan is undamaged ).
My engine is an 2.1L , and I can´t find a plug thats specific for that engine on neither teamcherokee.com or quadratec.com.
Would a plug from a 2.5L do?
regards,
Torstein
#6737
#6739
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
90 4.0 Intermittent idle problems
Got a 90 jeep cherokee sport 4.0 that likes to die after city driving. It starts right back up but won't idle down ( maintains about 2500 rpm) until you shut it off and re-start it then it's fine. I changed the AIC valve but that didn't solve it.
Any suggestions ?
Any suggestions ?
#6740
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
sounds like you have a vacuum leak
#6741
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Location: arcata, ca
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Help! Roommate tried to close pass door, now lock is stuck in locked position & I can't close the door. Tried search, figured I'd ask as well. I took panel off, unbolted the mechanism from door, jiggled this, jangled that. No luck. Key doesn't work either. Help!
#6742
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by smokerkenny
Help! Roommate tried to close pass door, now lock is stuck in locked position & I can't close the door. Tried search, figured I'd ask as well. I took panel off, unbolted the mechanism from door, jiggled this, jangled that. No luck. Key doesn't work either. Help!
#6745
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by BuckH
Is it hard on my engine to run it with 10w 40 oil?
#6747
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by BuckH
My father bought the oil and he said it didn't matter.. I just wanted to be sure
#6749
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
uh...both scenarios love 20W40. When it's hot, you want to have a thicker viscosity because it's only going to get thinner as it gets hotter. Older engines also love the thicker viscosity...makes the lifters run smoother and the tappets quiet down. You also have less dry starts with a thicker viscosity.
#6750
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
uh...both scenarios love 20W40. When it's hot, you want to have a thicker viscosity because it's only going to get thinner as it gets hotter. Older engines also love the thicker viscosity...makes the lifters run smoother and the tappets quiet down. You also have less dry starts with a thicker viscosity.
- You don't "want" a thicker viscosity in any weather. The size of the oil passages and component tolerances in the engine design is what determines the viscosity prescribed for the engine. Engine designers spend millions determining what is needed for an engine to run at maximum potential for as long as possible, but for some reason people think they know better...
- Oil will not get thinner as it gets hotter. It reaches it's lowest viscosity at operating temperature, about 5 minutes after you start the truck, regardless of outside temperature.
- Oil is thick at startup no matter what you use. 95% of engine wear occurs at startup, so you want the lowest startup viscosity (the "W" part) as possible to reduce wear and tear on the engine components. (5W or 10W MAX. for the 4.0L)
- Thicker oil will not produce less dry starts. In fact it's exactly the opposite. Viscosity is a measure of resistance to FLOW, which is what lubricates an engine. A thicker oil will only be more difficult to pump, therefore not providing enough lubrication at startup. If you increase the base viscosity of the oil you put in, it's making the oil harder to pump for the entire time the engine is running. The myth of "oil sitting on engine parts = better" is completely false.
Bottom line - Thicker Oil = Less Flow = Poorer Lubrication, especially at startup.
So OP it certainly does matter what oil you put in - Engine manufacturer spec is 10W-30. 5W-30 is advised to ease startup wear and tear.
You can still use that oil he bought if you need to, but I recommend mixing it 50-50 with some 5w-30.
[pssst...http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ <---Read & Comprehend]