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Old 09-08-2011, 08:58 AM
  #6766  
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Originally Posted by flosho
Hey guys, I've got a 97 Cherokee that has a rear end noise. It's kind of a howl/whirring/"wishwash" noise. It starts about 5mph and the noise level doesn't increase with speed but the noise is definitely rotational as the wsh wsh wsh speed up.

I did some research that lead me to thinking it might be the pinion bearing but everyone was stating that when they let off the gas the noise went away. Mine is constant whether I'm accelorating, coasting, etc.

This is my first 4x4 vehicle so I'm not as familiar with some of the quirks involved with them, but I am quite competent as far as wrenching on a vehicle.

Any suggestions?
I'd look at your bearings first.
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:01 AM
  #6767  
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Originally Posted by Irhall93
Anyone running a cold air intake? Notice good results? I am planning to get one but can't seem to find where i can buy one. Any ideas? I am in southern Wisconsin msg me if you want to sell me one.
I have a k&n cold air intake....
Its tight because she sucks in alot of air sounds like a whistle lol but if u plan of water crossings its a no go... I need my snorkel but to cheap to buy the kit
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:50 AM
  #6768  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Gotta love dukie answers.

Me personally it's full synthetic 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter.
Synthetic is a completely different animal than dino. This is a good combination
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:02 AM
  #6769  
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Originally Posted by slamin xj
Need some more advice please my xj quit running fuel pump isn't turning on and there is no spark. After all the wire chasing and testing I'm thinking its the pcm. Got the fuel pump to turn on for a second or two after I unhooked the pcm for a couple of hour but now nothing again. Looking for some more info before I replace the pcm. O and don't know if its relivent but the gas gauge isn't working either thanks for any info that can help
There is a sensor called the Crankshaft Position Sensor that controls the spark timing for the engine. It's very common for these to fail on these trucks, and when they do it results in a no spark, no fuel condition. This is most likely where the problem lies.

Symptoms-
- Starter cranks and cranks but engine won't start up
- Fuel gauge and voltage gauges may not work or display properly.
- You sometimes will have No Bus on the odometer after 30-60 seconds.
- A failed CPS/CKP may or may not throw a CEL trouble code.
- No spark at the spark plugs.
- Fuel pump should run and prime for 3-5 seconds.

If the CPS/CKP is failed sometimes the OBD-II code reader cannot make a connection to the computer or cannot read Check Engine Light/MIL codes because the CPS/CKP has failed.


Diagnostic steps to confirm the CPS is the cause of your no-start


You should be able to verify a bad cps, by unplugging it, and turning the ignition key to on. If the voltage gauge and/or the fuel gauge now displays correctly, replace the CPS.

Unplugging and reconnecting the CPS sensor where it connect to the main harness near the back of the intake manifold usually resets the ECU and if the jeep fires right up after doing this you can bet that the CPS is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Exchange the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay with one of the other similar ones in the PDC to eliminate the relays as the cause of the no-start Confirm that the fuel pump to runs for 3-5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON.

Eliminate the NSS as a cause of no start. Wiggle the shift lever at the same time you try to start. Put the transmission in Neutral and do the same. Do the reverse lights come on when the shifter is in Reverse?

Inspect the wires and wire connectors at the O2 sensors on the exhausts pipe. A short circuit from melted insulation or from broken O2 sensor wires can blow a fuse and the ECU/ECM will loose communication.

Begin with basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the battery and engine to the Cherokee's frame/body. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU will behave oddly until you remedy this.

CPS Testing

Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector



TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines
1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (SEE Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.



If the CPS is bad, here's how to change it:
http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/...picID=24211453

PCM should be the absolute last item you change - they very rarely go bad.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:06 AM
  #6770  
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Originally Posted by Irhall93
Anyone running a cold air intake? Notice good results? I am planning to get one but can't seem to find where i can buy one. Any ideas? I am in southern Wisconsin msg me if you want to sell me one.
I have a generic one off ebay (Chrome Intakes i think?) that I run in the winter time when I take my cowl snorkel off. I like it - sounds good and plenty of power, plus the ability to clean the filter. I do not recommend running one unless you go through the trouble of building a heat shield around it, or if you do not take it offroad through water at all.

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Old 09-08-2011, 10:48 AM
  #6771  
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2 questions does anyone know a way to test if my gas cap is throwing my check engin light.. i looked up the code its deffinatly a gas cap or vaccume line cause its telling me its an evap leak

Second does anyone know some good / or cheap snorkles ?
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dasbugin
2 questions does anyone know a way to test if my gas cap is throwing my check engin light.. i looked up the code its deffinatly a gas cap or vaccume line cause its telling me its an evap leak

Second does anyone know some good / or cheap snorkles ?
1) No way to test it - just make sure it's tight (3 clicks), and reset the computer (touch battery terminals together for 10 seconds). If it comes back on, replace the cap (OEM cap - not a cheap parts store cap)

2) A full snorkel? I have a cowl snorkel that works great, and is suitable for 99% of water crossings - cost me $15 to make. Unless you're getting REALLY deep it should be more than enough.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/my...snorkle-67919/
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:22 PM
  #6773  
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Anyone use the RC control arm drop brackets? I don't like tubular style arms and have reinforced my stock ones like we do on cars.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:38 PM
  #6774  
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star
Anyone use the RC control arm drop brackets? I don't like tubular style arms and have reinforced my stock ones like we do on cars.
Haven't used them, but I like RRO's design a bit better
http://www.rocky-road.com/xjcad.html
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:42 PM
  #6775  
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Originally Posted by dukie564

Haven't used them, but I like RRO's design a bit better
http://www.rocky-road.com/xjcad.html
Anyone know where I can get RC LCA bushings at?
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:56 PM
  #6776  
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star
I'd look at your bearings first.

Do you mean the pinion bearings or the wheel bearings or which ones?
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:21 PM
  #6777  
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I'd check them both. There's no telling what maintenance was and wasn't done before you took ownership.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:05 PM
  #6778  
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Originally Posted by CHEROKEEFERS
Hey guys need help. 1991 cherokee 4.0L
Instrument cluster wont work, speedo and tacho are out and the rest of the gauges are reading wrong info. The odometer isnt dialing up either. I already went to the junk yard and got a replacement cluster. After I did the swap, still no luck. I need some help before I end up spending any money on an electrician.

Thanks
im not sure if this was answered, havent used computer to check forum in a while usually on ipod, BUT go in the engine compartment right behind your cluster and check that ground wire. make sure shes clean looken. take her off sand it down and the body where it connects and see what happens. also check the battery terminals too that they are clean
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:17 PM
  #6779  
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Originally Posted by slamin xj
Need some more advice please my xj quit running fuel pump isn't turning on and there is no spark. After all the wire chasing and testing I'm thinking its the pcm. Got the fuel pump to turn on for a second or two after I unhooked the pcm for a couple of hour but now nothing again. Looking for some more info before I replace the pcm. O and don't know if its relivent but the gas gauge isn't working either thanks for any info that can help
I back what dukie said. Had a YJ that I wanted to push into a lake because I couldn't get it to start. Replaced the CPS and it ran like a champ. CPS is at about 11 o'clock on the bell housing, should be less than $20 at the parts warehouse.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Sapper XJ
I have a few problems with my 87 xj. Don't know if they are all related of seperate. It's stumbling through acceleration, acts like it's going to die through idle, lost all tail lights/brake lights and emergency flashers, voltometer reads nothing, fuel gauge reads wrong info, coolant temp gauge is frozen just under 200, over heating like a SOB.

I've replaced the battery, radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat and housing after a full flush and I ordered the coolant temp sensor, but it still has all of the above problems.

I compression checked it (I did it in the dark with a very impatient wife so I reserve the right to be wrong and I'm gonna do it again in the morning) and I got these WACKED numbers.... From the front of the engine back, I got 20,25, less than 10 (possibly nothing), then 50 and 60 then 15. So what the heck do I do now? I mean I'm all ears on any of the above problems.

If it is the head gasket, how many other gaskets should I buy? cause I'm gonna replace them. If it's not then what do I do?
Whoa, one at a time please! Seriously though, the problems with your gauges are just that, problem with your gauges, or the wiring going to them. Start trouble shooting those and u will probably found corroded wires, bad grounds, or bad sending units.

If ur wife is just impatient when u work on your jeep, my question is does she have a sister? Moving on, run the compression check again, if u still get whacky numbers, u got problems. Possible head gasket, or bad rings and egg shaped cylinders in the block. Do u know the maintenance history of the motor? How many miles on the clock? Dukie has a quarter million on his clock and has no problems, not everyone is that lucky. Probability is high that u are do for a motor overhaul and rebuild.

Stumbling through acceleration may also be explained away be the comp numbers u were getting. If u get a chance, look at the injectors make sure they don't look like a sewer pipe. If they do, search for injector swap on this forum and there is a load of info on that subject.

As far as the gaskets; valve cover, intake, exhaust, and head gasket obviously. May be one or two minor ones but the whiskey is distorting my memory. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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