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#7171
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 L
Originally Posted by Bugsy
Treble all the way up and Bass all the way down? Anyone in your heep lately?
#7172
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Location: Vancouver, BC
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#7173
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Location: Long Island
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
check the wires that connect to the back of the sub then back to the amp. If you can take a diff sub and try it with where your current sub is. that way you can isolate if its the actual sub or the wiring. make sure there is no cuts or breaks in the wires that could be shorting it out. also some amps have a protection mode where they stop putting out power, so in theory it doesn't blow a speaker out. so you could have a faulty amp to or at least make sure its getting power from the truck in the first place. last thing i would check is the connections on the back of the deck if its not getting signal from the deck it will never work.
#7174
my 96 xj sport 4.0 ho idles great but
when u give it gas it backfires,spits,n sputters.i have changed the plugs wires cap roter dist. coil crank sensor fuel filter.it dosent have a crossed wire and it was set tdc b4 new dist.was put in.what can i do to fix this problem
#7175
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 L
Originally Posted by dasbugin
check the wires that connect to the back of the sub then back to the amp. If you can take a diff sub and try it with where your current sub is. that way you can isolate if its the actual sub or the wiring. make sure there is no cuts or breaks in the wires that could be shorting it out. also some amps have a protection mode where they stop putting out power, so in theory it doesn't blow a speaker out. so you could have a faulty amp to or at least make sure its getting power from the truck in the first place. last thing i would check is the connections on the back of the deck if its not getting signal from the deck it will never work.
#7176
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did you check the fuel pump? it could be on its way out...or at least the fuel pressure if its not getting enough gas it will not run right no matter what you do.
#7177
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Best way to find a bad vaccum line
I have a bad vacuum line i know this cause that's what the check engine is saying and i know its not the gas cap cause i replaced that with a bran new one from the dealer.
So now my problem is i dont have days to waste finding and trying differnt lines any suggestions to find quickly which one is bad? or maybe just a diagram of all the lines i don't know how expensive they are maybe i should just do them all in one shot and be done.
So now my problem is i dont have days to waste finding and trying differnt lines any suggestions to find quickly which one is bad? or maybe just a diagram of all the lines i don't know how expensive they are maybe i should just do them all in one shot and be done.
#7178
New to this site sorry if this is the wrong thread!
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport, 4L with a bad rear seal. I have the starter out the pan unbolted but can't get enough clearance to get it out. Is the only answer to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine? If so what else should i unbolt?
Thanks for all your help,
RAD
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport, 4L with a bad rear seal. I have the starter out the pan unbolted but can't get enough clearance to get it out. Is the only answer to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine? If so what else should i unbolt?
Thanks for all your help,
RAD
#7179
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You could. Not having to do this yet; I would carefully jack the unibody up. Extending the suspension travel might give the room needed to wiggle it out. Basically creating distance between the pan and the differential. You might have to raise both sides simultaniously. Or jack the motor up.
#7180
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a bad vacuum line i know this cause that's what the check engine is saying and i know its not the gas cap cause i replaced that with a bran new one from the dealer.
So now my problem is i dont have days to waste finding and trying differnt lines any suggestions to find quickly which one is bad? or maybe just a diagram of all the lines i don't know how expensive they are maybe i should just do them all in one shot and be done.
So now my problem is i dont have days to waste finding and trying differnt lines any suggestions to find quickly which one is bad? or maybe just a diagram of all the lines i don't know how expensive they are maybe i should just do them all in one shot and be done.
#7181
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Location: Roscoe, IL
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242 Power Tech I6
there's a good chance it's in your switch, man. If i hold mine, like to change lanes, but without completely turning it on, mine will stay solid. But, if i move the lever all the way, until it clicks, both work fine. so, i'd say to check your switch, in the column.. you'll be able to see a dark mark against the plastic and contact points, if it's burned out. i know that's what my problem is.. just haven't found a cheap replacement switch yet.
#7183
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
#7185
Good evening guys-
Have an 86 2.5 4wd and about a year ago the vacuum actuator stopped shifting into 4wd. don't need the front axle engaged that much so I have been pulling the actuator off whenever I did need it and engaging manually. It's a pain in the butt so I did a search here and found many folks have changed the split axle for a solid one.
Sounds like the best solution but I wonder what the downside is to doing this. Any suggestions?
Have an 86 2.5 4wd and about a year ago the vacuum actuator stopped shifting into 4wd. don't need the front axle engaged that much so I have been pulling the actuator off whenever I did need it and engaging manually. It's a pain in the butt so I did a search here and found many folks have changed the split axle for a solid one.
Sounds like the best solution but I wonder what the downside is to doing this. Any suggestions?