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11-13-2011, 10:15 PM
#7921
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by mikedeezxj
Love my 89 anya saved the day so i figured out i have no bumper ball and the vaccume lines were just sittin there open plugged them and bam fixed the idle now the questions are can i just cap em off or are the neccessary for proper driveability? Whats the best thing to do here
11-13-2011, 10:16 PM
#7922
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by dukie564
LoL...how did I become a Renix guru?
I agree though it definitely sounds like a vac leak. Disconnect the lines one by one with the engine running and plug the hole with your finger. You're looking for the one that doesn't bring the idle back down. If all the lines check out ok the leak could be between the TB and the intake manifold, or between the intake manifold and the head.
11-13-2011, 10:39 PM
#7925
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4l
IMO Rough Country and Rusty's have the most complete kits. I strongly suggest a kit that comes with full replacement rear leaf springs. Add-A-Leaf kits ride terrible and sag over time.
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_4.html
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_xj_kit
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_4.html
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_xj_kit
11-14-2011, 10:40 AM
#7926
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cleveland TN
Posts: 46
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 95 Cherokee sport . The check engine light comes on motor starts bogging down bad ,oil pressure shoots to 60-80 at idle ,trans starts shifting weird , and sometimes voltage meter drops to red . I believe this prob is surrounding one of my injectors butt sure .. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also how do u check the check engine light on a 95 as it is a obd1 and parts stores can not read those .
11-14-2011, 10:49 AM
#7927
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
I have a 95 Cherokee sport . The check engine light comes on motor starts bogging down bad ,oil pressure shoots to 60-80 at idle ,trans starts shifting weird , and sometimes voltage meter drops to red . I believe this prob is surrounding one of my injectors butt sure .. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also how do u check the check engine light on a 95 as it is a obd1 and parts stores can not read those .
Start with the key off / engine off. Do the following quickly:
Key "ON" (do not start)
Key "OFF"
Key "ON"
Key "OFF"
Key "ON"
Check engine light will start flashing - they will be two number codes with a long pause between codes/numbers, kind of like Morse code (eg: 5-5 = 55).
Right off the bat I can guess it's probably a grounding issue since all that happens at once, but get the codes off first.
11-14-2011, 02:08 PM
#7929
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cleveland TN
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok so I checked it and it was 27 which is injector control circuit signal not responding correctly !! Any suggestions on that one ?
11-14-2011, 02:43 PM
#7930
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Apple Valley, MN
Posts: 2,763
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I just got a pair of these lights from northern tool
http://m.northerntool.com/northernto...ductName=false
I have almost no prior experience in electrical wiring, but I can read the diagrams. If anyone could tell me how to do it in detail, it would help so much, I found this diagram online but not sure if it applies here.
Thanks in advance!
Adam
http://m.northerntool.com/northernto...ductName=false
I have almost no prior experience in electrical wiring, but I can read the diagrams. If anyone could tell me how to do it in detail, it would help so much, I found this diagram online but not sure if it applies here.
Thanks in advance!
Adam
11-14-2011, 02:50 PM
#7931
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Summerville, South Carolina
Posts: 2,613
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 1plunk
I just got a pair of these lights from northern tool
http://m.northerntool.com/northernto...ductName=false
I have almost no prior experience in electrical wiring, but I can read the diagrams. If anyone could tell me how to do it in detail, it would help so much, I found this diagram online but not sure if it applies here.
<img src="https://www.cherokeeforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76351"/>
Thanks in advance!
Adam
http://m.northerntool.com/northernto...ductName=false
I have almost no prior experience in electrical wiring, but I can read the diagrams. If anyone could tell me how to do it in detail, it would help so much, I found this diagram online but not sure if it applies here.
<img src="https://www.cherokeeforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76351"/>
Thanks in advance!
Adam
11-14-2011, 02:55 PM
#7932
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
1. Clean the battery terminals REALLY well with sandpaper or a terminal tool - even if they look ok, just do it, there can be an invisible layer that forms blocking *most* of the current from flowing, enough to not start, but not enough that the electronics are dead too. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease or battery terminal grease before re-installation.
2. If that doesn't work, replace the terminals. Same reason as above...they're cheap...i've saved people a $200+ repair bill by spending $4.30. Sometimes cleaning them just doesn't work. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease or battery terminal grease before re-installation.
3. Check 'yer grounds. There are two that usually cause issues. One is a thick black wire at the Battery (-) post running to the fender, the other is a copper strap at the rear of the valve cover running to the firewall. Clean up the contact points with some sandpaper and reattach. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease before re-installation.
There is also a grounding point at the oil filler tube anchor bolt on some models. Unscrew the bolt, clean up the surfaces really well, and reinstall.
2. If that doesn't work, replace the terminals. Same reason as above...they're cheap...i've saved people a $200+ repair bill by spending $4.30. Sometimes cleaning them just doesn't work. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease or battery terminal grease before re-installation.
3. Check 'yer grounds. There are two that usually cause issues. One is a thick black wire at the Battery (-) post running to the fender, the other is a copper strap at the rear of the valve cover running to the firewall. Clean up the contact points with some sandpaper and reattach. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease before re-installation.
There is also a grounding point at the oil filler tube anchor bolt on some models. Unscrew the bolt, clean up the surfaces really well, and reinstall.
11-14-2011, 03:03 PM
#7933
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Apple Valley, MN
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by zombie jeep101
It said wiring not included. What was there on the back to hook up to?
11-14-2011, 04:45 PM
#7934
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Summerville, South Carolina
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Anyone know anything about dropping the front axle? What to watch out for or what not to do?? Or the best way to do it?
11-14-2011, 05:35 PM
#7935
CF Veteran
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Location: Summerville, South Carolina
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by zombie jeep101
Anyone know anything about dropping the front axle? What to watch out for or what not to do?? Or the best way to do it?