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12-04-2011, 04:20 PM
#8341
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Location: North Carolina
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L High Output
Originally Posted by dukie564
neither. Oversized tires you need to do a "chalk test" to get the pressure right since they are very different. Basically involves coating the treads in chalk, driving forward a little bit, then checking the contact patch. You need to aim for a full contact patch the whole way across the tire with no high spots or cupping.
Start with a baseline pressure of 25psi and go up or down from there.
12-04-2011, 04:21 PM
#8342
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L High Output
Originally Posted by LoveMy89Anya
are you using a breaker bar on the immovable bolt? if not, try that.
as far as the bolt hitting the exhaust pipe, depending on where its at, yo may be able to take the exhaust pipe down from its hangers and move it to the side/away from the bolt enough to get at it.
as far as the bolt hitting the exhaust pipe, depending on where its at, yo may be able to take the exhaust pipe down from its hangers and move it to the side/away from the bolt enough to get at it.
12-04-2011, 07:53 PM
#8343
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Location: NW NY
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
12-04-2011, 07:54 PM
#8344
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I had a similar situation a month or so ago (minus the PCM fiasco). My coil was the culprit. I tested the ohms on the coil. It was only 2.something. My understanding is anything under 5 ohms means its junk. Swapped it with a new one and was back on the road. Hope this helps.
12-04-2011, 08:03 PM
#8345
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Location: Clayton, NC
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
So my '99 I6 4.0L Cherokee died on the road a few weeks ago...just kind of sputtered out and wouldn't restart. It would crank and crank, just no turn over. I had a shop check it out and the diagnosis came back as a bum PCM--$1000 bucks! I got one programmed from a company on line for $200 and did the 4 minute install myself...still no luck. I think I have fuel (Schroeder valve on the rail spits, but I don't have an actual pressure gauge; also I can hear the fuel pump priming when I click the key to run). The shop that diagnosed the PCM claims to have tested the Ignition Coil and CPS with no problems, but those are the only other things that I can think of that will keep an engine from getting spark...
If anyone can think of something I'm missing, I'd be very grateful for a little insight/advice. I figure CPS/ignition coil are going to be the suggestions, but was just wondering if anyone had seen these probs and can help me out. Many thanks in advance!
If anyone can think of something I'm missing, I'd be very grateful for a little insight/advice. I figure CPS/ignition coil are going to be the suggestions, but was just wondering if anyone had seen these probs and can help me out. Many thanks in advance!
12-04-2011, 08:09 PM
#8346
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Location: Utah
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I'm working on tracking down a power door lock electrical problem and I'm pretty sure that it's caused by not getting the full 12V to the circuit. If I want to test that the circuit is getting 12V to the fuse is it as simple as using a DMM with one probe grounded and touching to other probe to the hot side of the fuse holder with the fuse out?
12-04-2011, 10:47 PM
#8347
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
Originally Posted by spoons
So my '99 I6 4.0L Cherokee died on the road a few weeks ago...just kind of sputtered out and wouldn't restart. It would crank and crank, just no turn over. I had a shop check it out and the diagnosis came back as a bum PCM--$1000 bucks! I got one programmed from a company on line for $200 and did the 4 minute install myself...still no luck. I think I have fuel (Schroeder valve on the rail spits, but I don't have an actual pressure gauge; also I can hear the fuel pump priming when I click the key to run). The shop that diagnosed the PCM claims to have tested the Ignition Coil and CPS with no problems, but those are the only other things that I can think of that will keep an engine from getting spark...
If anyone can think of something I'm missing, I'd be very grateful for a little insight/advice. I figure CPS/ignition coil are going to be the suggestions, but was just wondering if anyone had seen these probs and can help me out. Many thanks in advance!
If anyone can think of something I'm missing, I'd be very grateful for a little insight/advice. I figure CPS/ignition coil are going to be the suggestions, but was just wondering if anyone had seen these probs and can help me out. Many thanks in advance!
12-05-2011, 01:51 AM
#8348
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Location: Massachusetts
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Just sold my 95 XJ 5 speed and bought another 95 XJ with an automatic trans and less miles. The electric fan seems to be always running, especially when the defroster is on. The temp never gets to 210 degrees. If I turn off the defroster the fan will go off but only til the temp reaches about 180 or so, then it will come on again. If I shut the jeep off while the fan is running, the fan will continue to run. I have been driving around with the fan unplugged and have not had any overheating issues but it is pretty cold here in the Northeast. I noticed that the previous owner had removed the AC relay and put it in the glove box. Not sure why that was. I know the previous owner's mechanic and asked him what the deal was. He does not seem to remember doing any of that, but stated he had replaced the water pump, t-stat, and power steering pump not 6 months ago. Is there just the one temp sensor in the t-stat housing or is there another one? Any info would be great.
12-05-2011, 06:09 AM
#8349
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Location: Dayton, Ohio
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Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Tango 22
Just sold my 95 XJ 5 speed and bought another 95 XJ with an automatic trans and less miles. The electric fan seems to be always running, especially when the defroster is on. The temp never gets to 210 degrees. If I turn off the defroster the fan will go off but only til the temp reaches about 180 or so, then it will come on again. If I shut the jeep off while the fan is running, the fan will continue to run. I have been driving around with the fan unplugged and have not had any overheating issues but it is pretty cold here in the Northeast. I noticed that the previous owner had removed the AC relay and put it in the glove box. Not sure why that was. I know the previous owner's mechanic and asked him what the deal was. He does not seem to remember doing any of that, but stated he had replaced the water pump, t-stat, and power steering pump not 6 months ago. Is there just the one temp sensor in the t-stat housing or is there another one? Any info would be great.
12-05-2011, 06:39 AM
#8350
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Just sold my 95 XJ 5 speed and bought another 95 XJ with an automatic trans and less miles. The electric fan seems to be always running, especially when the defroster is on. The temp never gets to 210 degrees. If I turn off the defroster the fan will go off but only til the temp reaches about 180 or so, then it will come on again. If I shut the jeep off while the fan is running, the fan will continue to run. I have been driving around with the fan unplugged and have not had any overheating issues but it is pretty cold here in the Northeast. I noticed that the previous owner had removed the AC relay and put it in the glove box. Not sure why that was. I know the previous owner's mechanic and asked him what the deal was. He does not seem to remember doing any of that, but stated he had replaced the water pump, t-stat, and power steering pump not 6 months ago. Is there just the one temp sensor in the t-stat housing or is there another one? Any info would be great.
Also, any time the A/C or Defroster is on, the electric fan comes on. It's supposed to do that to pull heat off of the condenser coil.
12-05-2011, 11:08 AM
#8351
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Location: chillicothe, OH
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Will a proportioning valve from a 89 work with a 95 booster and mc? Am upgrading brakes on my 91. Frankenstein style. Gotta get what i can. This (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/brake-p...-pv6070fd.html) says that the prop valve is the same?
12-05-2011, 11:12 AM
#8352
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Will a proportioning valve from a 89 work with a 95 booster and mc? Am upgrading brakes on my 91. Frankenstein style. Gotta get what i can. This (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/brake-p...-pv6070fd.html) says that the prop valve is the same?
12-05-2011, 12:03 PM
#8354
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Newman, Lake WA
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
What do you guys think of those walmart goodyear wrangler authority tires? Come in 31x10.50x15. 150 a tire. Has the severe service emblem on the tire, for those of you who don't know what that is. It's rated for severe snow and ice. All four tires come to 634 installed. My walmart offers a 60 k mile warranty. Looks to be a pretty meaty tire.
12-05-2011, 12:25 PM
#8355
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Did you check your fusible links? I'm not sure if '99s have them or not, but I know my '88 does. When one blew a couple years back, all my Jeep would do is wind over and over but no crank. Took 2 months of diagnosing and one accidental pull on a fusible link and my problem was solved.