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XJ Ask the Question Thread
#8701
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Tie rod is 100% worth swapping. I have my V8 ZJ TR painted and waiting on my balcony so I can install it with my lift. Stock XJ TR is a .75" diameter tube. Stock V8 ZJ tie rod is a 1" diameter rod. I bought mine on here from a member, but they're about $30 from a JY. Maybe less, depending on where you go.
EDIT: To be clear, it IS a direct swap, and it works with or without lift. I'm just waiting so I can do everything at once.
EDIT: To be clear, it IS a direct swap, and it works with or without lift. I'm just waiting so I can do everything at once.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 12-27-2011 at 05:14 PM.
#8702
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Rocket Country MI
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
it should be on the inside of the drivers door like the sill part
#8703
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Location: IL
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is a 230 ft. lbs. air impact gun sufficient enough to get the front axel nut off? I got a compressor for xmas and I'm shopping for air tools now. The other model I'm considering goes up to 350 lbs.
#8704
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Gresham Oregon
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4cyl
i have a 94 cherokee 2 door with the 2.5L in it and i need another transfer case 231J, 21 spline. anyone have one that they are willing to let go?
#8705
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Location: Rocket Country MI
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#8707
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Yeah, that is a picture of a electronic speed sensor. Which is the correct speed sensor for that year.
A mechanical one has a speedometer cable that turns and goes up to the speedometer.
An electronic one uses a wire and reads electronic pulses from spinning sensor, like the one in the picture.
A mechanical one has a speedometer cable that turns and goes up to the speedometer.
An electronic one uses a wire and reads electronic pulses from spinning sensor, like the one in the picture.
yea autozone is retarded. You have a mechanical speedo cable. The correct part is BWD S8025 at advanced auto. Cross-referenced to Autozone is Duralast SU3007. Just give the parts monkey the correct part number.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...rtNumber=S8025
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...rtNumber=S8025
#8708
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
#8709
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
I know this is kind of old, but thought I would add to it. The rubber absorbs more vibration and harshness so you get a quieter and smoother ride but the rubber wears, flexes more and rots after some time. The urethane bushing are much tougher, flex less but transmit more vibrations and road noise to the inside of the Jeep. Our Jeeps are uni-body so no seperate frame like the Wranglers to isolate the cab from the bumps and road.
It's just preference, the rubber would probably last way past the time you own your Jeep.
NOW, Polygraphite is the best of both worlds. But I don't know if they make them for our Jeeps. I had them in my Mustangs and they were tough and not as stiff and harsh as the Urethane.
It's just preference, the rubber would probably last way past the time you own your Jeep.
NOW, Polygraphite is the best of both worlds. But I don't know if they make them for our Jeeps. I had them in my Mustangs and they were tough and not as stiff and harsh as the Urethane.
#8710
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Yeah, Autozone has them brand new for $34.99 and they are really well built. I was shocked at how well it was made. Plus, LIFETIME WARRANTY.
Tie rod is 100% worth swapping. I have my V8 ZJ TR painted and waiting on my balcony so I can install it with my lift. Stock XJ TR is a .75" diameter tube. Stock V8 ZJ tie rod is a 1" diameter rod. I bought mine on here from a member, but they're about $30 from a JY. Maybe less, depending on where you go.
EDIT: To be clear, it IS a direct swap, and it works with or without lift. I'm just waiting so I can do everything at once.
EDIT: To be clear, it IS a direct swap, and it works with or without lift. I'm just waiting so I can do everything at once.
#8712
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Those are cool, but be careful about putting a tire on it that is very much bigger than the stock size because the weight will tear up the Jeeps body panels where it mounts to.
#8713
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
I have a Renix, it is not really any harder to work on. The Chrysler system is a little better system but the Renix works, parts are easy to find and it actually has more low end grunt "torque" than the H.O. models which is nice on more technical off road stuff. With all the resources on here and other sites all you have to do is google your Year, Jeep, Renix 4.0 problem and bam, there are 20 links to what is the culprit and you buy the part and bolt it on and go. I'm afraid I will loose all my trouble shooting mechanical skills with so much info online. lol
Soooooooooo, that is a great deal, even if the motor or trans was shot you have a ton of room to work with.
Soooooooooo, that is a great deal, even if the motor or trans was shot you have a ton of room to work with.
okay so im about to buy an 88 2-door with 277xxx miles and the 4.0l. its the limited model and all the power windows and locks work good the rear hatch locks and opens fine it has the d44 rear axle has a 2 inch lift with 31's the floor pans are not rotted out its priced at $900. is this a good price? (sounds good to me) and is there any other things to look for when i go to check it out tomorrow? the only thing i was worried about is are the renix's harder to work on then the newer ones do they have any problems that new ones dont? any help is greatly appreciated as it will be daily driver to school and back. id really like some quick replies as im going to get it tomorrow unless you guys think its a peice of junk. merry christmas and thanks for the help.
#8714
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Here is some advice for the parts store game. Go to the part store online site and pull all your part numbers and write them down or put them in the notes of your phone first. Then just give them the part numbers.
The system they have at the parts store is actually not as good as the customer one online and if you're like me, watching some guy that used to flip burgers struggle with the computer trying to find a tie rod end "that he thinks is a tie rod" for 10 minutes drives me crazy.
A couple of times I have had to point to every link on the screen for the guy to get my part pulled up.
So now I get my part numbers first. That way you can avoid "that won't fit your Jeep" Or "that is not the right part". There are so many upgrade parts from other Jeeps that fit our XJ's, I was constantly running into that.
The system they have at the parts store is actually not as good as the customer one online and if you're like me, watching some guy that used to flip burgers struggle with the computer trying to find a tie rod end "that he thinks is a tie rod" for 10 minutes drives me crazy.
A couple of times I have had to point to every link on the screen for the guy to get my part pulled up.
So now I get my part numbers first. That way you can avoid "that won't fit your Jeep" Or "that is not the right part". There are so many upgrade parts from other Jeeps that fit our XJ's, I was constantly running into that.