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XJ Ask the Question Thread
01-01-2012, 11:04 PM
#8836
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tigard, OR
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
A lot of fuel issues can come from rebuilding an engine.. especially if the complete fuel system wasn't cleaned at the time. Have you used Seafoam in your fuel before? It can really help clean your system out..
Does anyone have a link to that write-up, about properly using seafoam? I think it'd help.. or if anyone else has better suggestions for a lack of consistent fuel situation?
Does anyone have a link to that write-up, about properly using seafoam? I think it'd help.. or if anyone else has better suggestions for a lack of consistent fuel situation?
A couple of things-
I was told the motor is new not rebuilt. Now I didn't get any papers that say "new motor" but the papers I got they say motor swap. Also the motor is really clean for 156k miles.
Also I don't think its just a simple fuel system clean issues. Once again when I cold start the Jeep I can hear the fuel pump prime and it start right away. After shutting down and trying to start it again the fuel pump will not prime until the second time I turn on the ignition. I think its an electric issue like a relay or something. Thanks for the advice zimbobwye
01-02-2012, 06:11 AM
#8837
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Randoph ohio!
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hey.. im new to this game and wanted to know when I bolt my winch/winch plate on to my bumper if grade A bolts will be strong enough to withstand the pressure from winching myself out of a mess? What ya think 4 would be good enough or should I use more.. and what size do ya think thanks cherokee forumers
01-02-2012, 06:13 AM
#8838
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Randoph ohio!
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Np and I just realized for anyone on iPhone/I touch if you go to settings you can turn on signatures.
01-02-2012, 06:41 AM
#8839
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Newman, Lake WA
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
Originally Posted by 98 brutus
Hey.. im new to this game and wanted to know when I bolt my winch/winch plate on to my bumper if grade A bolts will be strong enough to withstand the pressure from winching myself out of a mess? What ya think 4 would be good enough or should I use more.. and what size do ya think thanks cherokee forumers
01-02-2012, 06:47 AM
#8840
CF Veteran
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Location: Randoph ohio!
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by Bassfishertim2015
Four is just right, I used grade 8 for my 8,000lb and I've got stuck pretty good and the winch never moved. Just be sure to check the bolts now and then.
01-02-2012, 10:11 AM
#8841
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
Posts: 12,692
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by 98 brutus
Yes what the heck I got a sig set.. and im on a driod 3 and my sig never shows up, unless im on my pc
01-02-2012, 11:22 AM
#8842
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Also i went to Autozone to get the v8 tie rod and got thoroughly confused. The only steering component on my jeep thats hollow is the drag link. The drag link (was posted here as a tie rod) for the v8 won't work cuz it screws into something instead of over a tie rod end like the stock drag link
XJ Tie rod top, ZJ Tie rod bottom
And I think you're confused on the draglink/tie rod terminology (as is autozone). The drag link runs from the pitman arm to the passenger tire. The tie rod runs from the driver's tire to the drag link near the other tire.
01-02-2012, 11:30 AM
#8843
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Roscoe, IL
Posts: 295
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242 Power Tech I6
Originally Posted by dukie564
yea the ZJ tie rod is a bit different. The ZJ tie rod is 1" solid, the XJ one is 7/8" hollow. The ZJ rod also has one TRE build into the rod, then a sleeve, then the other TRE (bigger than XJ). You need all 3 components.
XJ Tie rod top, ZJ Tie rod bottom
And I think you're confused on the draglink/tie rod terminology (as is autozone). The drag link runs from the pitman arm to the passenger tire. The tie rod runs from the driver's tire to the drag link near the other tire.
01-02-2012, 11:43 AM
#8844
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Clunking at my feet
Some pretty nasty clunking at my feet. Does not occur While in gear and on the gas. Only occurs as soon as you let off the gas or push in the clutch. It will do it at idle, in neutral, when warm, but not when its cold. The previous owner says he had a shop do a replacement clutch kit but didnt notice the clunking when he drove the vehicle home from the shop. Also, i ran my vin # and it says my XJ came with an automatic trans. Could the P.O. have ruined something when he did the swap? Does this sound like anything you have heard of before? Any suggestions would be a great help, thanks!
01-02-2012, 12:08 PM
#8845
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by 96J33p
A couple of things-
I was told the motor is new not rebuilt. Now I didn't get any papers that say "new motor" but the papers I got they say motor swap. Also the motor is really clean for 156k miles.
Also I don't think its just a simple fuel system clean issues. Once again when I cold start the Jeep I can hear the fuel pump prime and it start right away. After shutting down and trying to start it again the fuel pump will not prime until the second time I turn on the ignition. I think its an electric issue like a relay or something. Thanks for the advice zimbobwye
01-02-2012, 03:07 PM
#8846
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
Posts: 12,692
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by dukie564
yea the ZJ tie rod is a bit different. The ZJ tie rod is 1" solid, the XJ one is 7/8" hollow. The ZJ rod also has one TRE build into the rod, then a sleeve, then the other TRE (bigger than XJ). You need all 3 components.
XJ Tie rod top, ZJ Tie rod bottom
And I think you're confused on the draglink/tie rod terminology (as is autozone). The drag link runs from the pitman arm to the passenger tire. The tie rod runs from the driver's tire to the drag link near the other tire.
