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XJ Ask the Question Thread
#8881
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Picked up an 8.25 rear the other day off of a '94 XJ with 4:10's. I'm pretty sure it's a 27 spline. Wondering if it's possible to change to 29 spline shafts and if so, what needs to be done to make for a happy axle? Eventually going to run an Aussie locker. Any help is greatly appreciated.
#8882
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
Posts: 140
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by wildspear
They should be 12pt, 13mm. Make sure to use pb breaker. I broke two on my Cherokee ( dealer item, 12 bucks a price if I remember correctly ).
#8883
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
#8884
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 1,146
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
#8885
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
#8886
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wichita
Posts: 419
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did renix stop in 90 or 91. Found a aw4 out of a 90. I was wondering cuz yhe renix ones will bolt to my transfer case. Also they are computer controlled right so i need the automatic renix computer? Does anyone know if they made the renix wiring harnesses universal (meaning i already have the plugins tucked away somewhere) or do i have to swap wiring
#8887
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Did renix stop in 90 or 91. Found a aw4 out of a 90. I was wondering cuz yhe renix ones will bolt to my transfer case. Also they are computer controlled right so i need the automatic renix computer? Does anyone know if they made the renix wiring harnesses universal (meaning i already have the plugins tucked away somewhere) or do i have to swap wiring
You need the bellhousing, flexplate, PCM, TCU, wiring harness, transfer case, both driveshafts, linkages, and console - basically the entire truck. The manuals are longer than the autos, and won't bolt up to each other.
I would advise against attempting this swap.
#8888
92 Cherokee, Automatic, 4.0L, 4x4 chokes and looses power.
While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.
If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.
Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?
Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.
If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.
Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?
Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
#8889
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Sounds to me as though you have loose ground wire somewhere. Possibly behind your gauge cluster or something of that nature.
If you have like 10 minutes and a small piece of sandpaper I would like you to humor me. Directly behind where your gauge cluster is, but on the firewall (engine bay) there is a small bolt with threaded wire attached to it. Loosen it, sand until you see clean metal and retighten. Next go to your battery, coming of the negative terminal wire should be a wire that runs to the left and bolts directly to the body. Follow the same procedure as before. We will start easy and go from there. Please keep us informed as to your results. We love pictures also.
If you have like 10 minutes and a small piece of sandpaper I would like you to humor me. Directly behind where your gauge cluster is, but on the firewall (engine bay) there is a small bolt with threaded wire attached to it. Loosen it, sand until you see clean metal and retighten. Next go to your battery, coming of the negative terminal wire should be a wire that runs to the left and bolts directly to the body. Follow the same procedure as before. We will start easy and go from there. Please keep us informed as to your results. We love pictures also.
Also, I take it that the oil pressure fluctuating is normal to a rough idle?
Thanks!
#8890
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Newman, Lake WA
Posts: 950
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
Originally Posted by jeremypcp
92 Cherokee, Automatic, 4.0L, 4x4 chokes and looses power.
While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.
If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.
Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?
Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.
If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.
Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?
Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
#8891
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
92 Cherokee, Automatic, 4.0L, 4x4 chokes and looses power.
While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.
If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.
Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?
Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
While driving my Jeep, the engine starts to sputter (RPMs jump) then looses power, then starts backfiring. So far it hasn't stalled out completely yet. I have to pull off the road and wait for it to correct itself before i can continue driving, and i dont have any more problems until i the next day.
If i put in the Red Fuel Stabilizer, and put in 98 Octane it runs perfectly for that whole tank of gas.
Is there a reason i have to run it so rich? I know its not the gas because my other 94 Cherokee get the same gas with no trouble. Can someone help please?
Also, does anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for my '92?
#8892
Originally Posted by Bassfishertim2015
This is just a suggestion, next to the air box attached to the frame. There is two little plugs. If one of those is lose or out of sack my jeep runs like crap and wants to die most times it does. Not saying this is your problem but its work a shot.
#8893
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
The white thing seen here:
#8894
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cleveland TN
Posts: 46
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok so here's the deal I have a 95 Cherokee xj it all started one day out of nowhere my jeep started running really rough and my check engine light came on I checked the codes and there was several diff ones , the next day goin down the road it lost all lights inside and out , a couple min later it completely dies and batt is dead I have someone bring a batt put it on starts up drives fine so I have mine checked its dead so I replace it jeep runs great for 3 or 4 days then starts the same missing and check engine code but this its the code for a bad alternator so I take it off and have it checked and it passed but I bought a new one anyways put it on jeep ran great for a week until I took it to the trails and it started it again so a friend said it sounded like the idle control sensor and he had an extra new one so I installed it and low n behold my jeep was running perfect the whole day and for two weeks but here we are again wither same problem part time crappy running and check engine light with several codes ... somebody please help I have posted this several times and gotten no responses
#8895
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Newman, Lake WA
Posts: 950
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
Originally Posted by dukie564
he's talking about the fuel pump ballast resistor. You can completely bypass it (connect the wires together) without any issue (except perhaps more noise from the fuel pump)
The white thing seen here: