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Old 01-04-2012, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564

sounds like you may have sediment or water in your tank. Run it till the tank is almost empty, then add a bottle of drygas and about 3 gallons of gas, then run it till almost empty again.
I have done this about 4 times and no difference
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564

he's talking about the fuel pump ballast resistor. You can completely bypass it (connect the wires together) without any issue (except perhaps more noise from the fuel pump)

The white thing seen here:
I will try this after work and post back. Thank you both, and wish me luck. (If u are following my other posts, i also need to change my rear 2 u-joints which is also new to me)
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:50 PM
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I have a set of mag wheels for my cherokee but the centers are a little bigger than my stock steel wheels are they ok to use or no
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:50 PM
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Default Importance of rear axles

Being on here for a couple of months I've noticed that there's a lot of focus on strengthening the rear axle. A lot of dislike for the D35 and preference for C8.25, D44, etc. I'm thrilled to find out that my XJ has a C8.25 in the rear, but I'm not sure why... It makes sense to me that a good rear axle is important for towing or highway travel when you're in 2H a lot, but what does it have to do with offroading when you're in 4x4 mode all the time? How come nobody upgrades their front axles? Isn't front strength important when you're relying on the front wheels to haul you over obstacles? Is the Dana 30 just inherently better and most rears suck the big one, or is there no other option?
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:52 PM
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Nevermind that crap then i guess i'll continue on looking for the ax15
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
not unless you break something. It's far easier to swap the entire axle.

Not really that much of an upgrade anyways from the 27 spline. 27 splines are fine up through 33s/35s.
Well, anything is better than the D35 rear I have now...
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Being on here for a couple of months I've noticed that there's a lot of focus on strengthening the rear axle. A lot of dislike for the D35 and preference for C8.25, D44, etc. I'm thrilled to find out that my XJ has a C8.25 in the rear, but I'm not sure why... It makes sense to me that a good rear axle is important for towing or highway travel when you're in 2H a lot, but what does it have to do with offroading when you're in 4x4 mode all the time? How come nobody upgrades their front axles? Isn't front strength important when you're relying on the front wheels to haul you over obstacles? Is the Dana 30 just inherently better and most rears suck the big one, or is there no other option?
It's because the back wheel push while the front pull, so they get a lot more stress put on them when you put big tires on. It takes more strength to turn bigger tires, and try to go uphill, over a rock, etc.
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Being on here for a couple of months I've noticed that there's a lot of focus on strengthening the rear axle. A lot of dislike for the D35 and preference for C8.25, D44, etc. I'm thrilled to find out that my XJ has a C8.25 in the rear, but I'm not sure why... It makes sense to me that a good rear axle is important for towing or highway travel when you're in 2H a lot, but what does it have to do with offroading when you're in 4x4 mode all the time? How come nobody upgrades their front axles? Isn't front strength important when you're relying on the front wheels to haul you over obstacles? Is the Dana 30 just inherently better and most rears suck the big one, or is there no other option?
People do upgrade their front axles too but they don't go in as hard as the rear. I've heard people do Dana 60 rear and 44 front so they can pull 37s. And also as above member said the rear always does more work...
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:21 PM
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Interesting, thanks for clearing that up!
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Interesting, thanks for clearing that up!
No problem
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremypcp

I will try this after work and post back. Thank you both, and wish me luck. (If u are following my other posts, i also need to change my rear 2 u-joints which is also new to me)
Ok, so far so good. U know i never thought about it, but i have been noticing a sound from my fuel pump every once in a while where it sounds like its realy straining and alot louder then usual. Do u think that stupid resister was the cause?
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:03 PM
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Question please help !!!!!!!

Ok so here's the deal I have a 95 Cherokee xj it all started one day out of nowhere my jeep started running really rough and my check engine light came on I checked the codes and there was several diff ones , the next day goin down the road it lost all lights inside and out , a couple min later it completely dies and batt is dead I have someone bring a batt put it on starts up drives fine so I have mine checked its dead so I replace it jeep runs great for 3 or 4 days then starts the same missing and check engine code but this its the code for a bad alternator so I take it off and have it checked and it passed but I bought a new one anyways put it on jeep ran great for a week until I took it to the trails and it started it again so a friend said it sounded like the idle control sensor and he had an extra new one so I installed it and low n behold my jeep was running perfect the whole day and for two weeks but here we are again wither same problem part time crappy running and check engine light with several codes ... somebody please help
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Blue xj
Ok so here's the deal I have a 95 Cherokee xj it all started one day out of nowhere my jeep started running really rough and my check engine light came on I checked the codes and there was several diff ones , the next day goin down the road it lost all lights inside and out , a couple min later it completely dies and batt is dead I have someone bring a batt put it on starts up drives fine so I have mine checked its dead so I replace it jeep runs great for 3 or 4 days then starts the same missing and check engine code but this its the code for a bad alternator so I take it off and have it checked and it passed but I bought a new one anyways put it on jeep ran great for a week until I took it to the trails and it started it again so a friend said it sounded like the idle control sensor and he had an extra new one so I installed it and low n behold my jeep was running perfect the whole day and for two weeks but here we are again wither same problem part time crappy running and check engine light with several codes ... somebody please help
I have hear of people having lots of electrical problems from bad alternators to starters to batteries, and they were all because the were buying "Everlast" batteries from wally-world. The Everlast batteries while some may be ok, alot are known to not hold a steady charge, which will strain your other components. Not saying this is your problem, but it helps to know. I wish i did back when i was in the import scene.
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:44 AM
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i have a 99 classic with the 4.0 in it. 82k miles on the motor and tranny etc. have an aritex fuel pump in it and i seem to be losing fuel pressure? i can crank up. and drive it no problem but maybe 20 seconds later it starts to sputter and bog/stall like it has no fuel getting to it. i pop it in Neutral, cut it of, crank it back up (all while rolling down the road) and when i put it in drive and stomp the gas i have all the power again for the same ammount of time sometimes its not too bad sometimes i have to start it every 100 yards to keep it running. any help would be greatly appreciated. i can easily replace the fuel pump but that would make this my 3rd one and its getting to be a bit expensive and i was wondering if there were any other routes to take?
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:53 AM
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Does anyone have an opinion on the OEM side rails/sliders Jeep offered as an option? Jeep calls them "rock rails". But, I know they're a bolt together application. At the same time, they're much cheaper than any aftermarket option. Are they worth a darn?
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