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XJ Ask the Question Thread
#8956
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
#8957
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Newman, Lake WA
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
Originally Posted by bsmith97xj
Ive always been taught that 80% of brake squeaks are caused by vibration. Two metal components are touching and begin to rub and make noise. Also the make of the friction materials on the shoes. Semi metallic frictions seem to cause the most noise and dust. Ceramic is probably the best IMO, but the most expensive.
#8958
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hutchinson Ks
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Bassfishertim2015
Ya I've grown up with the same wisdom lol. I'm gonna take them apart and put grease on the back side where the pads touch the inner part of the wheel. Not the drum
#8959
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lancaster, Pennsylvania
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Has anyone ever tried Bars rear main seal restorer? I Tried it and it didn't work but the reason I'm posting is I am getting a little coffee color oil on the tip of my dip stick. I was wondering if anyone else experienced this after using Bars. If not I guess I'll check my head gasket.
#8960
Has anyone ever tried Bars rear main seal restorer? I Tried it and it didn't work but the reason I'm posting is I am getting a little coffee color oil on the tip of my dip stick. I was wondering if anyone else experienced this after using Bars. If not I guess I'll check my head gasket.
changing the rear main is really not that hard, its daunting before you get into it but once you're in its no big deal.
#8961
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Apple Valley, MN
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by Kuro89
In my experience any sort of leak fixer ruins more than it helps, to be on the safe side I would change the oil
changing the rear main is really not that hard, its daunting before you get into it but once you're in its no big deal.
On topic: the only patch I would consider is for a heater core, just because they are a PITA to replace (if it doesn't fix it your back where you started... and you replace it anyway).
But with the engine, I wouldn't mess around with that stuff, just do it right the first time and don't risk an unforeseen chemical reaction that could be harmful your engine.
#8963
but for the complete switch you will need the radiator overflow and heater control valve I think.
#8964
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Columbus GA
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
okay so i was at the parts store today and the guy told be since its the 2nd pump ive gone through the pump isnt the issue its something else. well duh. so he saiys its the fuel pressure regulator more than likely and not being home and having the internet i bought his bull**** and he ordered one, havent paid yet, but get home and google it only to find out that the regulator is PART OF THE ASSEMBLY i was in the process of replacing to begin with. so should i just continue on and get the bosch pump assembly? any other ideas as far as what my issue could be? has plenty of pressure when started and ran for about 100yds-1/4 mile or so depending on what it wants to do. then after that it sputters and wont rev and tries to die as if its lost all the pressure or ran out of gas. Its my DD and im in one of those sticky situations, any help would be appreciated.
#8965
'92 Cherokee, Automatic, 4.0L, 4x4: sputters, chokes, looses power but doesn't die (at least not yet). Its as if its not getting gas. I have to run 98 Octane along with the red fuel stabilizer from Stabil just to keep it from sputtering and loosing power.
Ok so far i have changed the fuel filter, and jumped the fuel ballast resistor but no change.
Any ideas? Please help
Ok so far i have changed the fuel filter, and jumped the fuel ballast resistor but no change.
Any ideas? Please help
#8966
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
overheated and wont start
i have a 1999 xj sport, auto, 4.0l. back story first, it was only 28 outside when this happened, it was being drivin be my mom, it started to smoke and stalled, so she started it back up and drove, stalled again, started it up and drove it while smoking, than the rear drive shaft u-joint failed, now the jeep wont start. now it will crank just fine, and you can smell fuel, but i no that coolent got into the intake. so i am going to get new plugs today, i pulled of the throtal body and cleaned all the sencors off. but in the intake there is a black brown sludge, only a bit in the low points. i did replace the thermastate over the summer and flush the system, but not a new water pump or rad. and before i did that is over heated twice, but was shut off right away. so i dont know if the u-joint is realated, but any help on getting it started would be great. thanks.
#8967
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Okay the 13mm 12 point worked for my hubs after a little heat was applied so thanks guys. But once i got these out i see this huge nut holding the center of the hub on. Well i dont have a socket big enough. The biggest i have is a 1 1/4" si im gonna have to go buy one to take take nut off. Does anybody know what size i need?
#8968
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Nvm just figured it out its a 36mm socket. Just for all those who wondered. And it needs to be torqed to 175lbs
#8969
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Location: Staten Island, NY
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
Where can I buy replacement leaf packs for stock height? Looking for one that will last and not sag. Plan to do a 2" shackle and spacer in the future as well.
#8970
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Location: Newman, Lake WA
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
Originally Posted by JustinGB
Where can I buy replacement leaf packs for stock height? Looking for one that will last and not sag. Plan to do a 2" shackle and spacer in the future as well.
Last edited by Bassfishertim2015; 01-07-2012 at 06:14 PM.