Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
#9046
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wichita
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Would 2001 wrangler rims fit my 87 cherokee as far as backspacing/center hole
Edit: i have deduced that the backspacing is 5.5 were as ours are 5.25? But still unclear on the center hole size
Edit: i have deduced that the backspacing is 5.5 were as ours are 5.25? But still unclear on the center hole size
Last edited by Jeepyjeepy; 01-10-2012 at 10:53 AM.
#9048
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Joliet, Il
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
Okay, I'm still having problems with my Xj. The no starting issue, its at work and am about to go take the battery out and see if it is bad or what is going on with that, but outside of getting the battery tested what else do you guys reccomend checking.
On a side note, My Jeep lately has had power and everything, and then when I go to turn it over all the power cuts out completely and then it is all dead. I tried taking the NSS out to clean it, but it would NOT BUDGE off of the shifting shaft. I hooked the battery back up and bolted the NSS back down and it started right up... Any ideas?
On a side note, My Jeep lately has had power and everything, and then when I go to turn it over all the power cuts out completely and then it is all dead. I tried taking the NSS out to clean it, but it would NOT BUDGE off of the shifting shaft. I hooked the battery back up and bolted the NSS back down and it started right up... Any ideas?
#9049
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
#9050
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Okay, I'm still having problems with my Xj. The no starting issue, its at work and am about to go take the battery out and see if it is bad or what is going on with that, but outside of getting the battery tested what else do you guys reccomend checking.
On a side note, My Jeep lately has had power and everything, and then when I go to turn it over all the power cuts out completely and then it is all dead. I tried taking the NSS out to clean it, but it would NOT BUDGE off of the shifting shaft. I hooked the battery back up and bolted the NSS back down and it started right up... Any ideas?
On a side note, My Jeep lately has had power and everything, and then when I go to turn it over all the power cuts out completely and then it is all dead. I tried taking the NSS out to clean it, but it would NOT BUDGE off of the shifting shaft. I hooked the battery back up and bolted the NSS back down and it started right up... Any ideas?
#9051
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Seattle,Washington
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Assuming you're running stock wheels/tires/gears/and your speedometer is fine, you should consider the following:
- Do a tuneup including oil and fluid changes, spark plugs, air filter, and all that. Gummed/soured plugs, fluids outside of spec and clogged filters can cause poor efficiency.
- Commonly the exhaust manifold cat develop a crack, most often on the downpipe weld near the collector way down by the flange that bolts up to the cat. I bought my 1999 and within a week or so this busted open. Drank a ton of gas, made a slight gurgling/hissing sound (especially under acceleration) and smelled pretty bad. Originally I thought it was fuel but it's the same smell as when a car warms up in the winter
- Over time the pre-catalytic converter O2 sensor can get dirtied up and lose sensitivity and cause an unnecessarily rich mixture... similar to an exhaust manifold leak
- Are you running with the defogger on all the time? My last car had no AC, so I got used to having air blowing on the windshield constantly. Imagine my surprise when I found in the manual that, even though the **** isn't marked (and there's no light... grrrr) the Defog vent control actually runs the AC system when its above freezing outside. For a month I was running my air conditioner without even realizing it
Once you rule the above out the problem may be more in depth.
Edit: I have poor record keeping (forget to reset trip odometer and write down fuel consumption) but I got 21.something MPG over Christmas break carrying 4 people up to the family's place for dinner.
- Do a tuneup including oil and fluid changes, spark plugs, air filter, and all that. Gummed/soured plugs, fluids outside of spec and clogged filters can cause poor efficiency.
- Commonly the exhaust manifold cat develop a crack, most often on the downpipe weld near the collector way down by the flange that bolts up to the cat. I bought my 1999 and within a week or so this busted open. Drank a ton of gas, made a slight gurgling/hissing sound (especially under acceleration) and smelled pretty bad. Originally I thought it was fuel but it's the same smell as when a car warms up in the winter
- Over time the pre-catalytic converter O2 sensor can get dirtied up and lose sensitivity and cause an unnecessarily rich mixture... similar to an exhaust manifold leak
- Are you running with the defogger on all the time? My last car had no AC, so I got used to having air blowing on the windshield constantly. Imagine my surprise when I found in the manual that, even though the **** isn't marked (and there's no light... grrrr) the Defog vent control actually runs the AC system when its above freezing outside. For a month I was running my air conditioner without even realizing it
Once you rule the above out the problem may be more in depth.
Edit: I have poor record keeping (forget to reset trip odometer and write down fuel consumption) but I got 21.something MPG over Christmas break carrying 4 people up to the family's place for dinner.
can you explain more about this exaust leak that could be causing this problem,,i did smell what i thought was a gas leak the other day ,i thought it might be the injectors leaking ,but after keeping an eye on them for a while i determined its not a fuel leak at the injectors..this crack was on the manifold itself or on the pipe near the catilictyic converter flang? i supose then the 02 sensor would be getting wrong information causing excessive fuel consumpsion?
#9052
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Joliet, Il
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
Originally Posted by dukie564
battery terminals - wire brush the posts shiny and replace the terminals.
Is there anything else that any body would recommend me checking before I get stuck somewhere again?
#9054
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Joliet, Il
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
Originally Posted by dukie564
no i guarantee your problem lies with that connection
#9055
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
It can crack in a few places, obviously near welds... most seem to be on the pipe from cyls 3-6 where they meet the collector to the flange. I had a crack and actually a hole in mine. As a result the raw exhaust causes the smell and fresh air gets into the exhaust system, fooling the O2 sensor and the ECU into thinking that it's running lean and dump more fuel in.
#9056
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Thanks for the help so far. I'd be lost, otherwise lol.
*Edit: I went out and bought some Iso Heet. It's a fuel antifreeze, water remover and injector cleaner. Also poured in some octane booster for shˇts and giggles. Got some gas too so all the additives could mix in real well and drove around about 10 miles. I'll have to let the Jeep cool down and sit for a bit and start it up later to see if the problem reoccurs. I'll let you know what happens.
*Edit: I went out and bought some Iso Heet. It's a fuel antifreeze, water remover and injector cleaner. Also poured in some octane booster for shˇts and giggles. Got some gas too so all the additives could mix in real well and drove around about 10 miles. I'll have to let the Jeep cool down and sit for a bit and start it up later to see if the problem reoccurs. I'll let you know what happens.
Don't know if it just hasn't had enough time to work or if I have to run the engine through an entire tank of gas, but my above "fix" hasn't yielded any positive results. I'm beginning to think I have a more complex issue going on with the Jeep.
#9058
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wichita
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Im starting to get curious on exactly how much lift i really have ( po before the po lifted the rear and maybe the front) the front was sagging when i got it and i put 2" spacers in it and its still got a rake. Does anyone know the stock renix model ride height with 205/75s or from hub to flair front and back
#9059
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kuna, ID
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by Jeepyjeepy
Im starting to get curious on exactly how much lift i really have ( po before the po lifted the rear and maybe the front) the front was sagging when i got it and i put 2" spacers in it and its still got a rake. Does anyone know the stock renix model ride height with 205/75s or from hub to flair front and back
#9060
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by jx2991
I think on stock height from hub to flare it should be 17". Not positive though.