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XJ Ask the Question Thread
02-05-2012, 08:05 PM
#9646
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 cylinder
Originally Posted by TheGreatEscape
Other than the emblem & the toggle, what else can I look for to determine if I have the HO or not?
02-05-2012, 08:06 PM
#9647
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I recently bought a 2001 jeep cherokee i have big plans for it but before i do anything i have to fix the heater core. Has anyone figured out a way of getting it out without taking the entire dash apart?
02-05-2012, 08:12 PM
#9648
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by jeepin4jesus
Go to you local jeep dealership and ask for a print out of what u jeep came with from the factory.
02-05-2012, 08:12 PM
#9649
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by strongislandjeep
I recently bought a 2001 jeep cherokee i have big plans for it but before i do anything i have to fix the heater core. Has anyone figured out a way of getting it out without taking the entire dash apart?
02-05-2012, 08:21 PM
#9650
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
Ugghhh. I just finished mine. I got heat now. What a pain in the ***! Do yourself a favor take your time, take pictures as you go and label everything. There is a great write up on here, it really helped.
02-05-2012, 09:59 PM
#9651
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by TheGreatEscape
I've a 91 4.0 I6 XJ.
My husband swears its the HO but I thought the HO wasn't in production til 92.
I have the Power/Comfort trans toggle as well, which I have read was there until 92 when they started putting the HOs in them.
Am I wrong?
My husband swears its the HO but I thought the HO wasn't in production til 92.
I have the Power/Comfort trans toggle as well, which I have read was there until 92 when they started putting the HOs in them.
Am I wrong?
02-06-2012, 06:09 AM
#9653
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
First I would check all your connectors. Then I would check the Throttle position switch which is on the front of the throttle body "side facing radiator". I can't remember if the 96's have one but if they do, it helps control the trans shifting control. If these things are good, you can try to get a Transmission Control module from the JYard and install it. They are $10 to $20 bucks from the U-Pull it yard. Make sure it is from your year group. Like 96 to 2001 or something.They are usually under the lower dash trim panel on the passenger side. It is bolted right to the plastic panel.
I am having an intermittent transmission problem with my 96 cherokee... it will drive fine for weeks and then today it gets stuck in second gear, the rpms start running up and then it shuts its self off and will no longer start. this is the 3rd time this has happned, i have towed it to multiple shops that cant find anything wrong with it and after a few days ended up driving it home. any ideas would help
02-06-2012, 06:18 AM
#9654
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Yeah, probably U-Joint. Put it in Neutral, pull the emergency brake tight, then put it back into park. You want to get the load/tension off the drive shaft. Then you get underneath it and push the drive shaft back and forth and up and down. Look for movement and or slop, especially where the U-joint bearing caps engage the U-joint body. If they are bad it will move around there. If nothing moving there, check the slip yoke, up and down, back and forth looking for slop or movement.
02-06-2012, 06:31 AM
#9655
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Always use PB Blaster on rusty bolts. If a bolt starts to get really hard to turn, stop and spray PB Blaster on it and wait a few minutes. If you don't, it can break or cross thread. You can buy PB Blaster at Pep Boys. NEVER EVER USE WD 40. It is not a good penetrating lubricant. It is a water displacer, hence the "WD". They try to pass it off as a lubricant and penetration spray but it is not. It is Fish oil believe it or not, which is not very good for thread penetration. I have used PB Blaster for years and it is the only one that actually works like you think it should.
A few minutes of PB is better than hours or even days of trying to get a broken bolt out or re-threading a bolt hole.
And if the bolts or nuts are really rusty, DO NOT REUSE THEM. Do yourself a favor and replace them with new ones from ACE Hardware ect.
It's an old saying but really holds true "An ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure".
A few minutes of PB is better than hours or even days of trying to get a broken bolt out or re-threading a bolt hole.
And if the bolts or nuts are really rusty, DO NOT REUSE THEM. Do yourself a favor and replace them with new ones from ACE Hardware ect.
It's an old saying but really holds true "An ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure".
02-06-2012, 06:41 AM
#9656
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Could be the ballast resister. But I don't know if the 99 has one. I do know that the Airtex pumps are problematic and most people steer clear of them. Bosch are okay. Wallbro are my favorite, I think you can get them off of RockAuto.com
i have a 99 classic with the 4.0 in it. 82k miles on the motor and tranny etc. have an aritex fuel pump in it and i seem to be losing fuel pressure? i can crank up. and drive it no problem but maybe 20 seconds later it starts to sputter and bog/stall like it has no fuel getting to it. i pop it in Neutral, cut it of, crank it back up (all while rolling down the road) and when i put it in drive and stomp the gas i have all the power again for the same ammount of time sometimes its not too bad sometimes i have to start it every 100 yards to keep it running. any help would be greatly appreciated. i can easily replace the fuel pump but that would make this my 3rd one and its getting to be a bit expensive and i was wondering if there were any other routes to take?
02-06-2012, 07:05 AM
#9657
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Installing gears for the first time is a pain in the a$$. It has to be done VERY precisely and right or it will make noise at the very least. If you really screw it up you will destroy your new gears. I did it on two vehicles and I will not do it again. I take my stuff to professionals and get a warranty. If it is not right THEY have to do it again. You have to have shims "the right size for the new gears and they all need different sizes and you will not know until you pull it apart, bolt in the new gears and measure the gear lash and pinion depth" All this needs special tools like a dial indicator with magnetic stand, and so on. Do yourself a favor and take it in. 
Also you need gears that match your tire size. If you go too deep you will not have any highway drivability "5000 Rpms at 55mph". If you go too shallow you will have no power and or not enough low end for technical terrain off road. I put in a chart from Morris 4x4.com so you can match up your needs.
02-06-2012, 07:19 AM
#9658
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Your going to think I am insane. Put a raw egg in your radiator. You can look it up and see what I am talking about. It will fill the pin hole created when you flushed your radiator. I think you put it in when the water is cold. But if you look up the directions it will tell you. Sounds crazy but it works. Do Not use that radiator stop leak. It will plug up stuff you don't want plugged up. Otherwise you will have to pull the dash out and replace it.
Which sucks bad. It is a huge job, I have done it once and I still wake up at night screaming from that nightmare.
Which sucks bad. It is a huge job, I have done it once and I still wake up at night screaming from that nightmare.
and ideas guys?!
02-06-2012, 10:31 AM
#9659
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Your going to think I am insane. Put a raw egg in your radiator. You can look it up and see what I am talking about. It will fill the pin hole created when you flushed your radiator. I think you put it in when the water is cold. But if you look up the directions it will tell you. Sounds crazy but it works. Do Not use that radiator stop leak. It will plug up stuff you don't want plugged up. Otherwise you will have to pull the dash out and replace it.
Which sucks bad. It is a huge job, I have done it once and I still wake up at night screaming from that nightmare.
Which sucks bad. It is a huge job, I have done it once and I still wake up at night screaming from that nightmare.
02-06-2012, 10:34 AM
#9660
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Another trick for this that works better, especially on long bolts like the leaf spring bolts, is as soon as it starts "chattering" or "squealing", stop and use a strong arm to cycle the bolt in and out to clear the threads of rust. Much more effective, and you don't have to wait.