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XJ Ask the Question Thread
02-14-2012, 01:24 AM
#9827
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4l. 6 cyl.
Low rpms when going uphill
When i drive to class there are some hills along the way, and at like two of them going up the hill i have around 1100 to 1500 rpm. and if i press on the gas harder i don't accelerate much and the rpm slowly go up. then sometimes jumps to 2200 rpm at the top, that's only happened twice.
This all happen around 35-40mph going up the hill
this all just seems odd to me
What do you think?
Thanks
This all happen around 35-40mph going up the hill
this all just seems odd to me
What do you think?
Thanks
Last edited by Oneplanker; 02-14-2012 at 01:29 AM.
02-14-2012, 02:29 AM
#9829
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Newman, Lake WA
Posts: 950
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
Originally Posted by rstaggs
i have a 2000 jeep cherokee 4door classic 4 cyclnder my a/c wont come out my dash it just comes out my defrost any tips on wat to do??
02-14-2012, 07:12 AM
#9830
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 1,155
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
02-14-2012, 07:21 AM
#9831
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 13
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Model: Cherokee
Dukie - thank you SO much for this!!!
Perfect reply...exactly what I needed. You rock!!
02-14-2012, 09:08 AM
#9832
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: N. IL
Posts: 801
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Start with this. Don't skip any steps or take any shortcuts.
Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
Revised 11-28-2011
Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
Revised 11-28-2011
02-14-2012, 09:22 AM
#9833
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
When i drive to class there are some hills along the way, and at like two of them going up the hill i have around 1100 to 1500 rpm. and if i press on the gas harder i don't accelerate much and the rpm slowly go up. then sometimes jumps to 2200 rpm at the top, that's only happened twice.
This all happen around 35-40mph going up the hill
this all just seems odd to me
What do you think?
Thanks
This all happen around 35-40mph going up the hill
this all just seems odd to me
What do you think?
Thanks
If that doesn't work, you may need a new throttle position sensor, but test it first.
Do a search on here - there are specific procedures listed for both of these operations
02-14-2012, 01:00 PM
#9834
Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Central Maine
Posts: 230
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
02-14-2012, 08:46 PM
#9835
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 16
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Yea, that's what I was thinking. I already have 2 u-joiints I just need to put them in asap just in case, even if that isnt what's wrong better safe than sorry. pretty much! still gotta put my new muffler on too
02-14-2012, 09:15 PM
#9836
CF Veteran
Overseas delivery parts
Does anyone know a good parts shop online that delivers Cherokee parts overseas (I'm in Australia).
Most of the shops in the US only deliver in the US (and I dont want one of them parcel-forwarding companies to go with)
amazon and ebay are limited in their parts.
cheers.
Most of the shops in the US only deliver in the US (and I dont want one of them parcel-forwarding companies to go with)
amazon and ebay are limited in their parts.
cheers.
02-14-2012, 09:35 PM
#9838
CF Veteran
02-14-2012, 10:08 PM
#9839
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
well tuneup gear i'm sure would be cheapest to source locally - doesn't need to be OEM. Headlights you can go universal h4/9003 replacements as well
02-14-2012, 10:24 PM
#9840
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 18
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hi,
I have a 94 cherokee country im having a problem with my dash lights staying on. they wont shut off unless i pull the fuse for them. what could be the problem?
Can someone help please
I have a 94 cherokee country im having a problem with my dash lights staying on. they wont shut off unless i pull the fuse for them. what could be the problem?
Can someone help please