Nperryman

Not sure what you are wanting to check for, but get under the jeep and check for rust under the floor pans and along the frame etc. What lift does it have? Check heating and air conditioning. Make sure the four wheel drive works, check for rips in seat.... I'm not really sure what you are wanting to check.

salad

Depends on the year - different problem areas. The Cherokee had a massive production run with the 4.0 from 1988 to 2001... please be a little more specific...

NewKindOfClown

TC drop/SYE? Good chance you'll need one, but maybe not.

rabblerouser

Couldnt find the answer by searching, and the writeup doesnt say what size it is, but what size torx are the door bolts on the early style doors? biggest ive got is a t30 which is too small, so im gonna have to pick up the bit

its going to be the 80s this week, and looking forward to taking the doors off.

Nperryman

So, I went mudding a few times lately, and if I get stuck I did the rocking back and forth thing. I later found out that that is bad on your transmission. My check engine light came on today and my rpm, were about 500 rpms over what they usually are. The scanner said cylinder 2 misfire and when I pressed the down button it said something about a transmission solenoid or something. We cleared the codes and it drove home fine. Should I be worried about anything? It has been a week since I last went mudding. I have a 98 sport automatic by the way.

waffalz22

Ok so my gas gauge AWWAYS reads empty is there anything I can try that doesent involve dropping my gas tank?

Sideways99

cut a hole in your floor lol
i'd say fuse but i have a feeling it piggy backs with the one for the pump so no clue really
but the hole can be covered and sealed for later use

waffalz22

Could you take a pic of where I should do that I really don't wanna drop my gastank lol

EDIT: my xj is a 91 limited

HINKLE83

I have a few quick questions, and being that I am very new to the XJ world, hopefully they are quick fixes! The first is a loud rattle that seems to come from right around the cat when I am idling or at very low speeds, it sounds almost like a can full of nuts and bolts being rattled around. I was thinking loose exhaust mounts or, judging by the large dent in the cat, could be that catalytic material rattling around. The other unusual thing is another rattle, this one more "thumpy" and slower, that I can hear and feel coming from under the drivers side floor, also while at low speeds and while turning. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you CF for all the great help!

waffalz22

Hey welcome to cf my cat did the same thing when I dropped all my jeeps weight on it out wheeling it was cat material bouncing around so I bought a cheap one from advanced

HINKLE83

Thank you for your quick response! Hopefully that solves one problem, so thanks again and I'm sure the people at the drive-through windows will thank you as well for not having to listen to that racket! I see that the cat is welded in, looks like I have to pull in a favor to get a buddy to weld a new one in!

Sideways99

to be honest i really was joking
i'd hate to give you advice where to cut and be wrong or get ya blown up cuz you cut into your tank and threw a spark
it may be best to pick a weekend and drop it, do what you need and be satisfied
on a side note are your other gauges working properly? the cluster may be bad? checking that is easier than droppin your tank.

waffalz22

Yeah I figured XD and yes all my other gauges work perfectly see

assetts91

T55

Modrod

Even if it is the sending unit in the tank, you don't have to drop it. The access flange is mounted on the front side of the tank and you can get into to it from in-front by the diff. I jacked mine up and put jack stands on the frame and let the rear axle hang down so it was flexed down out of the way.
Just remember that when you take the assembly out, that there is a rubber plug/grommet thing on the end of the return line that goes down to the bottom of the tank. When you pull out the assembly, if it is not on the bottom of the return tube you will have to put your hand down in the tank and pull it out of the bracket thing on the bottom of the tank and put it back on the return tube when you reinstall the assembly. The grommet/plug thing will slide into a hole in a bracket at the bottom of the tank when you put it back in.
You want to have 1/4 of a tank or less when you do this so the gas doesn't gush out. Putting the giant rubber o-ring and lock ring back on can be a pain in the butt to get it sealed up good. I think it is better to get a new rubber o-ring and locking ring from the parts store. It's not expensive and easier to put on an o-ring that has not expanded from age and time.