Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
#1081
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: oregon
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ive been searching for someone with the similar problem with their windows but didnt find it my passenger window switch will push it up but not down the driver side switch wont move it but works with every other window fine what can i do to attemp to fix it i pulled the motor and hard wired it and it worked fine
#1083
A 27 spline has less splines,there for each spline would be bigger than the splines on a 29,right?Thicker splines would be stronger than thinner splines I would think.Can anyone explain in easy terms why 29 is better?In my mind bigger splines equal stronger splines.Just putting it out there for discussion.
#1084
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
A 27 spline has less splines,there for each spline would be bigger than the splines on a 29,right?Thicker splines would be stronger than thinner splines I would think.Can anyone explain in easy terms why 29 is better?In my mind bigger splines equal stronger splines.Just putting it out there for discussion.
#1085
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Aurora, colorado
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1992 XJ 4.0 auto issues
So my 92 quit on my yesterday. When I would press the throttle it would bog out and almost die, then it would catch it self and run good. got off the road and I shut it down and then it would not restart. After it died it did not have any fuel pressure, but it also did not have any spark. So today I put the key in and it started right up and it has not shut down all day. No check engine light. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Codfish
Thanks,
Codfish
#1086
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
god you just scared me even more with driveline,u-bolts,splines talk.....
but you say the transmission is fine so i will have a beer actually, and hopefully all that other stuff you named isnt anything serious......
thanks again
P
also i actually forgot the light where the gear shift is(drive, reverse, etc) went out...is this some sort of warning sigh or just a bad bulb?
but you say the transmission is fine so i will have a beer actually, and hopefully all that other stuff you named isnt anything serious......
thanks again
P
also i actually forgot the light where the gear shift is(drive, reverse, etc) went out...is this some sort of warning sigh or just a bad bulb?
#1087
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
A 27 spline has less splines,there for each spline would be bigger than the splines on a 29,right?Thicker splines would be stronger than thinner splines I would think.Can anyone explain in easy terms why 29 is better?In my mind bigger splines equal stronger splines.Just putting it out there for discussion.
27 splines - 1.17 dia
29 splines - 1.21 dia
The splines are the same size, just two more.
#1088
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
So my 92 quit on my yesterday. When I would press the throttle it would bog out and almost die, then it would catch it self and run good. got off the road and I shut it down and then it would not restart. After it died it did not have any fuel pressure, but it also did not have any spark. So today I put the key in and it started right up and it has not shut down all day. No check engine light. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Codfish
Thanks,
Codfish
#1090
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Aurora, colorado
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#1091
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Washington
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
As far as "needing" the extra connectors, that's up to what you plan to do with your jeep. If it's not hurting anything, leave it for when and if you want to use it. If it is causing issues like shorting out, and you dont need it, generally you are safe to tape it off if its something simple like a light.
#1092
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Washington
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
ive been searching for someone with the similar problem with their windows but didnt find it my passenger window switch will push it up but not down the driver side switch wont move it but works with every other window fine what can i do to attemp to fix it i pulled the motor and hard wired it and it worked fine
The biggest issue I've run into is that this is only a temporary solution some times. A butt splice doesn't hold up to the twisting very well and will fail again the more you open the door, but it'll last 2-3 years of moderate use. The only thing I can think of that is more perminant is if some kind of strain relief is used (heavy duty heat shrink, perhaps), or fresh wire is spliced in from outside the flex zone (inside the door and inside the frame). This is beyond the scope of effort I want to do, though. If you verify that the wires are good on the drivers door, check the door wiring of the door of the window that has the problem. I only say to check the driver's door as it's the highest use door, and the others would have to regularly have passengers to have anywhere close to the same wear, but that doesn't mean they can't fail too.
It could also be bad switches: poke around the bone yards and see if you can dig some up for around $5. Do a little research to see if there were other vehicles that used the same switches to widen your options (as an example, the steering column and cruise controls for '90s jeeps were used in some '80s and '90s GMs!)
That's the only two points in the power window system that would have consistant issues. The only other point of failure is the motor, but that would be intermittant up and down.
#1093
ok i have 2 questions, first i have an 88 and 89 XJ and i am not sure what axles i have in them, they both have tow hitches but i am not sure if they were aftermarket or OEM so i don't know whether i have a d30, d35, or a d44
Second, on my 89 it has a 4.0HO 5pd and when it is under acceleration it does great but when i am cruisin in any gear at around 1500-2000RPMs it sputters, it had about 3 gal of 2-3 year old gas in it when i got it and i put a can of b12 and filled the tank with good gas, it also has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air/fuel filters, new CPS, New Coil and module. i am not sure but i think it is the cat being clogged up but i am not sure, any ideas will help
Second, on my 89 it has a 4.0HO 5pd and when it is under acceleration it does great but when i am cruisin in any gear at around 1500-2000RPMs it sputters, it had about 3 gal of 2-3 year old gas in it when i got it and i put a can of b12 and filled the tank with good gas, it also has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air/fuel filters, new CPS, New Coil and module. i am not sure but i think it is the cat being clogged up but i am not sure, any ideas will help
#1094
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Washington
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
ok i have 2 questions, first i have an 88 and 89 XJ and i am not sure what axles i have in them, they both have tow hitches but i am not sure if they were aftermarket or OEM so i don't know whether i have a d30, d35, or a d44
Second, on my 89 it has a 4.0HO 5pd and when it is under acceleration it does great but when i am cruisin in any gear at around 1500-2000RPMs it sputters, it had about 3 gal of 2-3 year old gas in it when i got it and i put a can of b12 and filled the tank with good gas, it also has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air/fuel filters, new CPS, New Coil and module. i am not sure but i think it is the cat being clogged up but i am not sure, any ideas will help
Second, on my 89 it has a 4.0HO 5pd and when it is under acceleration it does great but when i am cruisin in any gear at around 1500-2000RPMs it sputters, it had about 3 gal of 2-3 year old gas in it when i got it and i put a can of b12 and filled the tank with good gas, it also has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air/fuel filters, new CPS, New Coil and module. i am not sure but i think it is the cat being clogged up but i am not sure, any ideas will help
Doesn't really matter, though, as you will only have trouble with a D35 when you start going big with tires or are really hard with the side to side forces. My wife's grand cherokee has a d35c with 280k on it, and I finally had to replace a shaft due to wear, and only, I suspect, because the diff fluid was low. The rest of it is fine as far as I can tell, and she's not always easy on her jeep. The only thing I don't like is that the bearing wears directly on the shaft instead of having an inner race that's replacible, but what can you do? If you're daily driving with it, it doesn't matter what's back there if it works, and if you're building a off road rig, you'll probibly find an axle that's already built for far cheaper and less hassle than than building up either a D44 or D35. I've been dealing with this myself, and the guys I've been wheeling with gave me an ultimatium this weekend that a D44 wouldn't help with: I have to build a rig capible of pulling thiers out to be fair, and a D44 would be borderline. As such, an entire rig that's already built up and trail ready is on par with buying the parts and building it myself these days.
Oh, and I should mention that I've looked over hundreds of cherokees and grand cherokees, own 4 myself, and have never seen a stock D44, that's how rare they are... not that you can't find them in other vehicles, but then why not go with a d60, which is much more common? Anyway.
One last note on axles: there's a hundred ways to spend your money on the axles: gearing, lockers, stronger shafts, different splined shafts, reinforced third members, CV joints, reinforcement, etc etc etc. The biggest thing I've learned is that if they're working and doing what they're supposed to, don't worry about replacing things til they break! I've run my jeeps bone stock on 676 trail, shoestring, funnyrocks, and moonrocks (local stomping grounds), kept up with far better rigs, and didn't really break anything... except a shock and a window, but no amount of upgrades are going to prevent that, it's all in how you drive and where. I'll probibly keep on going, only improving things that I have to to keep having fun, and when an axle shaft breaks, THEN I'll worry about whether or not to put expensive upgrades in, otherwise I'll have a stock shaft (or a whole set) sitting around doing no good. I guess one school of thought says they'd make good trail spares, but if that's the case, why did you spend so much on upgrades if they're going to break too? (besides lugging around 4 shafts and whatever other parts for "trail spares")
On the second part, I've not heard of the fuel additive you're refering to, but the best treatment for a system that's had old gas in it is seafoam. disolves every bit of the varnish and whatnot. You should also look for vacume leaks, especially in the 'bottle' or 'egg' located in the passenger side bumper, I've heard lots of problems with that. As far as exhaust goes, there's only about one "easy" way to go about it: detach the exhaust temporarily and see if it runs better. I'm not really all that knowledgeable about RENIX systems, but I understand that they have a lot more adjustments that can be made than the later fuel injected systems, and I'd imagine more things that can get out of whack, requiring the use of some rather involved electronic hardware to tune up, so I've read.
#1095
jeep problem
hi new to the site hope you guys can lend a hand. i have a 1998 jeep cherokee that has been a pain in my side for several months now ive had it in 3 diffrent shops and payed 3 diffrent bills all to have the same problem. my problem while driving and keeping the throttle at a constant it will almost back out for a sec and if i dont give more throttle it will continue but if a give throttle it will take off. it seem to do this between 2 and 3 thousand rpms but im not for shure if thats the only time it will do it but it does not turn off the radio stays on and lights also. the check engine light is on. the codes are p0123 tps sensor a circuit high input, p0122 tps sensor a circuit low input,p1694 malfunction auxilary input/ output,and p0715 input turbine speed sensor a circut. this is what has been replaced and done to it new ecm, new tps, spark plugs & wires, rotor cap and button. ive check the sweep on the tps with a volt meter it seem to sweep fine but one thing i do notice is. that the signal wire comeing from the ecm send 5 volts also when it is unpluged i dont believe this is right by looking at some stuff online. if anyone can help it would be greatly appricated.
thanks
josh
thanks
josh