nielsenml

Sounds like the switches are worn out. Try replacing them.

DRIVE IT LIKE A JEEP

where is the best place to run accessory wires through the firewall on a 1996

troy fritz

A 27 spline has less splines,there for each spline would be bigger than the splines on a 29,right?Thicker splines would be stronger than thinner splines I would think.Can anyone explain in easy terms why 29 is better?In my mind bigger splines equal stronger splines.Just putting it out there for discussion.

cob24

I think the shaft is thicker and the splines are the same size? I have no knowledge to back this up, but that would explain why its stronger

codfish

So my 92 quit on my yesterday. When I would press the throttle it would bog out and almost die, then it would catch it self and run good. got off the road and I shut it down and then it would not restart. After it died it did not have any fuel pressure, but it also did not have any spark. So today I put the key in and it started right up and it has not shut down all day. No check engine light. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Codfish

fantic238

beer isn't working on you..

fantic238

The diameter of the axle shafts is also bigger:
27 splines - 1.17 dia
29 splines - 1.21 dia
The splines are the same size, just two more.

fantic238

Usually when a FP goes bad it won't resurrect, so i would say it is more a CPS issue or bad wiring.

fantic238

backed up.

codfish

Thanks. Hopefully CPS....I really don't want to chase a bunch of bad wires.

Later,
Codfish

TrollHammer

There's a lot of extra wires for options that were never plugged in to all my XJs. I used to think that all XJs were wired for all features and all you had to do was plug them in, but I've since found that only my '91 has connectors on the harness for ALL features except the power door equipment. My 93 has quite a few extras, but didn't have some of the dash features, like fog lights and the 'power/comfort' transmission switch.

As far as "needing" the extra connectors, that's up to what you plan to do with your jeep. If it's not hurting anything, leave it for when and if you want to use it. If it is causing issues like shorting out, and you dont need it, generally you are safe to tape it off if its something simple like a light.

TrollHammer

Generally, on my wife's grand cherokee, if we have issues with the windows or locks or anything power in the doors, we look at the wiring in the driver's side umbilical. They put a little extra wire in there so that it twists instead of bends, which is good, but the insulation dries out and cracks and makes weak points in the wires, which then fracture the wire inside. The frustrating point is that you can pull the rubber boot back and not see anything wrong, both because there's so many wires and because the crack can be on the back side of the wire. You may have to look through every wire, rotating it or using a mirror to inspect every one. Most of the broken wires we find (we've done this about half a dozen times) are half way from the body to the door in the section covered with the rubber boot, and the results can be random, depending if it's controlling one direction of a window motor, or a common feeding a whole block of controls. The repair is simple but frustrating: cut and strip back the wire when you find the crack, and butt splice it back together. There's not much room or extra wire, though, and you don't want to accidently cut any others in the tight space.

The biggest issue I've run into is that this is only a temporary solution some times. A butt splice doesn't hold up to the twisting very well and will fail again the more you open the door, but it'll last 2-3 years of moderate use. The only thing I can think of that is more perminant is if some kind of strain relief is used (heavy duty heat shrink, perhaps), or fresh wire is spliced in from outside the flex zone (inside the door and inside the frame). This is beyond the scope of effort I want to do, though. If you verify that the wires are good on the drivers door, check the door wiring of the door of the window that has the problem. I only say to check the driver's door as it's the highest use door, and the others would have to regularly have passengers to have anywhere close to the same wear, but that doesn't mean they can't fail too.

It could also be bad switches: poke around the bone yards and see if you can dig some up for around $5. Do a little research to see if there were other vehicles that used the same switches to widen your options (as an example, the steering column and cruise controls for '90s jeeps were used in some '80s and '90s GMs!)

That's the only two points in the power window system that would have consistant issues. The only other point of failure is the motor, but that would be intermittant up and down.

97reaperdually

ok i have 2 questions, first i have an 88 and 89 XJ and i am not sure what axles i have in them, they both have tow hitches but i am not sure if they were aftermarket or OEM so i don't know whether i have a d30, d35, or a d44

Second, on my 89 it has a 4.0HO 5pd and when it is under acceleration it does great but when i am cruisin in any gear at around 1500-2000RPMs it sputters, it had about 3 gal of 2-3 year old gas in it when i got it and i put a can of b12 and filled the tank with good gas, it also has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air/fuel filters, new CPS, New Coil and module. i am not sure but i think it is the cat being clogged up but i am not sure, any ideas will help

TrollHammer

On the first one, there's lots of images on the 'net that will help with visually identifying the axle, but generally, the d35 has a round or egg-shaped cover and the d44 is more 'stop sign' shaped. Both will be marked somewhere on the diff with a 'd44' or a 'd35' (or a variant there of, such as 'd35c' for the c-clip version). I've got a parts '89 with a reciever and it has a d35. As far as I can figure, d44s are so rare that it's a fairly safe bet it's a 35 anyway, unless you got lucky. Good news is that it won't be a D30 in the rear, those were only in wranglers. The D30 is, however, up front in ALL cherokees, your only debate is whether it has vacume disconnects or not, which I've heard are the weakest link in them. EVen then, you run them til they break and then throw in solid shafts, which are cheaper and more reliable.

Doesn't really matter, though, as you will only have trouble with a D35 when you start going big with tires or are really hard with the side to side forces. My wife's grand cherokee has a d35c with 280k on it, and I finally had to replace a shaft due to wear, and only, I suspect, because the diff fluid was low. The rest of it is fine as far as I can tell, and she's not always easy on her jeep. The only thing I don't like is that the bearing wears directly on the shaft instead of having an inner race that's replacible, but what can you do? If you're daily driving with it, it doesn't matter what's back there if it works, and if you're building a off road rig, you'll probibly find an axle that's already built for far cheaper and less hassle than than building up either a D44 or D35. I've been dealing with this myself, and the guys I've been wheeling with gave me an ultimatium this weekend that a D44 wouldn't help with: I have to build a rig capible of pulling thiers out to be fair, and a D44 would be borderline. As such, an entire rig that's already built up and trail ready is on par with buying the parts and building it myself these days.

Oh, and I should mention that I've looked over hundreds of cherokees and grand cherokees, own 4 myself, and have never seen a stock D44, that's how rare they are... not that you can't find them in other vehicles, but then why not go with a d60, which is much more common? Anyway.

One last note on axles: there's a hundred ways to spend your money on the axles: gearing, lockers, stronger shafts, different splined shafts, reinforced third members, CV joints, reinforcement, etc etc etc. The biggest thing I've learned is that if they're working and doing what they're supposed to, don't worry about replacing things til they break! I've run my jeeps bone stock on 676 trail, shoestring, funnyrocks, and moonrocks (local stomping grounds), kept up with far better rigs, and didn't really break anything... except a shock and a window, but no amount of upgrades are going to prevent that, it's all in how you drive and where. I'll probibly keep on going, only improving things that I have to to keep having fun, and when an axle shaft breaks, THEN I'll worry about whether or not to put expensive upgrades in, otherwise I'll have a stock shaft (or a whole set) sitting around doing no good. I guess one school of thought says they'd make good trail spares, but if that's the case, why did you spend so much on upgrades if they're going to break too? (besides lugging around 4 shafts and whatever other parts for "trail spares")

On the second part, I've not heard of the fuel additive you're refering to, but the best treatment for a system that's had old gas in it is seafoam. disolves every bit of the varnish and whatnot. You should also look for vacume leaks, especially in the 'bottle' or 'egg' located in the passenger side bumper, I've heard lots of problems with that. As far as exhaust goes, there's only about one "easy" way to go about it: detach the exhaust temporarily and see if it runs better. I'm not really all that knowledgeable about RENIX systems, but I understand that they have a lot more adjustments that can be made than the later fuel injected systems, and I'd imagine more things that can get out of whack, requiring the use of some rather involved electronic hardware to tune up, so I've read.

kl9josh

hi new to the site hope you guys can lend a hand. i have a 1998 jeep cherokee that has been a pain in my side for several months now ive had it in 3 diffrent shops and payed 3 diffrent bills all to have the same problem. my problem while driving and keeping the throttle at a constant it will almost back out for a sec and if i dont give more throttle it will continue but if a give throttle it will take off. it seem to do this between 2 and 3 thousand rpms but im not for shure if thats the only time it will do it but it does not turn off the radio stays on and lights also. the check engine light is on. the codes are p0123 tps sensor a circuit high input, p0122 tps sensor a circuit low input,p1694 malfunction auxilary input/ output,and p0715 input turbine speed sensor a circut. this is what has been replaced and done to it new ecm, new tps, spark plugs & wires, rotor cap and button. ive check the sweep on the tps with a volt meter it seem to sweep fine but one thing i do notice is. that the signal wire comeing from the ecm send 5 volts also when it is unpluged i dont believe this is right by looking at some stuff online. if anyone can help it would be greatly appricated.
thanks
josh