Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 L
Originally Posted by Modrod
How far down is it going to hang with all that extra adapter pipe on it? You going to be dragging that crazy concoction on rocks and stuff?
I am wondering if it would just be better to get another header that is for your XJ. Sell that one to a Wrangler owner and get the right pipe.
$150 and free shipping on EBay, stainless steel XJ header. You can easily spend more than $150 trying to get some shop to fab up an adapter for that header. And then after they do all kinds of wacky bends and connectors to get it to fit underneath your XJ, you would loose the 5 hp gain from it.
A header on a V8 car that had cast iron log type exhaust manifolds would average about 15hp. Since the stock XJ pipe is really a header, an aftermarket header will only net you about 4 to 6hp max.
These are low rpm engines and a header doesn't help much. The 99+ intake manifold is the biggest hp multiplier for your XJ "about 20hp". Only a stroker kit would out do a head and intake upgrade, but combined it would be the best since it all compliments each other.
Here is the header on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-99-JEEP-W...item231c7063d3
I am wondering if it would just be better to get another header that is for your XJ. Sell that one to a Wrangler owner and get the right pipe.
$150 and free shipping on EBay, stainless steel XJ header. You can easily spend more than $150 trying to get some shop to fab up an adapter for that header. And then after they do all kinds of wacky bends and connectors to get it to fit underneath your XJ, you would loose the 5 hp gain from it.
A header on a V8 car that had cast iron log type exhaust manifolds would average about 15hp. Since the stock XJ pipe is really a header, an aftermarket header will only net you about 4 to 6hp max.
These are low rpm engines and a header doesn't help much. The 99+ intake manifold is the biggest hp multiplier for your XJ "about 20hp". Only a stroker kit would out do a head and intake upgrade, but combined it would be the best since it all compliments each other.
Here is the header on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-99-JEEP-W...item231c7063d3
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tucson, Az
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
Unfortunately you don't want to do that. Your 88 has an R12 system and the 95 has an R134. If you put the 88 stuff on and put R134 in it, it will leak. I would go to the junk yard and get the stuff you need there from a 93+ XJ. I think 93 and newer have R134 systems. All the hoses and the compressor is sealed for R12 on your 88. The hoses will leak out along with the front shaft seal on the 88 since the R134 molecule is smaller than the R12 molecule.
And if you were to put R12 in the 95 with your 88 system, it would cost you $150 to fill it up since R12 is highly regulated and being completely phased out.
It sucks, I am going through a similar situation. I have a 90 and had to buy a new compressor, hoses, dryer for mine. It was all needing replacement so it was going to have to be done anyway. And since the R12 stuff is all being rebuilt to use R134 gas it was an easy decision.
I had to swap out the hoses since they won't hold the R134. I also swapped out the evaporator since the R12 oil left over in it will coagulate in the R134 gas and goop up the system.
If you get the stuff from the Jyard, look for a compressor that has no oil on the front, bottom of it where the seal is. Or look for one that looks replaced by a new or rebuilt compressor. With the belt off the compressor at the Jyard, turn the center of the pulley and not the outer pulley. This is so you can see if it is still good and not locked up from it coming apart on the inside. It will be fairly hard to turn but should turn and not feel like there is grinding or clunking. It is like turning an air compressor, it will feel stiff but turn.
And if you were to put R12 in the 95 with your 88 system, it would cost you $150 to fill it up since R12 is highly regulated and being completely phased out.
It sucks, I am going through a similar situation. I have a 90 and had to buy a new compressor, hoses, dryer for mine. It was all needing replacement so it was going to have to be done anyway. And since the R12 stuff is all being rebuilt to use R134 gas it was an easy decision.
I had to swap out the hoses since they won't hold the R134. I also swapped out the evaporator since the R12 oil left over in it will coagulate in the R134 gas and goop up the system.
If you get the stuff from the Jyard, look for a compressor that has no oil on the front, bottom of it where the seal is. Or look for one that looks replaced by a new or rebuilt compressor. With the belt off the compressor at the Jyard, turn the center of the pulley and not the outer pulley. This is so you can see if it is still good and not locked up from it coming apart on the inside. It will be fairly hard to turn but should turn and not feel like there is grinding or clunking. It is like turning an air compressor, it will feel stiff but turn.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Unfortunately you don't want to do that. Your 88 has an R12 system and the 95 has an R134. If you put the 88 stuff on and put R134 in it, it will leak. I would go to the junk yard and get the stuff you need there from a 93+ XJ. I think 93 and newer have R134 systems. All the hoses and the compressor is sealed for R12 on your 88. The hoses will leak out along with the front shaft seal on the 88 since the R134 molecule is smaller than the R12 molecule.
And if you were to put R12 in the 95 with your 88 system, it would cost you $150 to fill it up since R12 is highly regulated and being completely phased out.
It sucks, I am going through a similar situation. I have a 90 and had to buy a new compressor, hoses, dryer for mine. It was all needing replacement so it was going to have to be done anyway. And since the R12 stuff is all being rebuilt to use R134 gas it was an easy decision.
I had to swap out the hoses since they won't hold the R134. I also swapped out the evaporator since the R12 oil left over in it will coagulate in the R134 gas and goop up the system.
If you get the stuff from the Jyard, look for a compressor that has no oil on the front, bottom of it where the seal is. Or look for one that looks replaced by a new or rebuilt compressor. With the belt off the compressor at the Jyard, turn the center of the pulley and not the outer pulley. This is so you can see if it is still good and not locked up from it coming apart on the inside. It will be fairly hard to turn but should turn and not feel like there is grinding or clunking. It is like turning an air compressor, it will feel stiff but turn.
And if you were to put R12 in the 95 with your 88 system, it would cost you $150 to fill it up since R12 is highly regulated and being completely phased out.
It sucks, I am going through a similar situation. I have a 90 and had to buy a new compressor, hoses, dryer for mine. It was all needing replacement so it was going to have to be done anyway. And since the R12 stuff is all being rebuilt to use R134 gas it was an easy decision.
I had to swap out the hoses since they won't hold the R134. I also swapped out the evaporator since the R12 oil left over in it will coagulate in the R134 gas and goop up the system.
If you get the stuff from the Jyard, look for a compressor that has no oil on the front, bottom of it where the seal is. Or look for one that looks replaced by a new or rebuilt compressor. With the belt off the compressor at the Jyard, turn the center of the pulley and not the outer pulley. This is so you can see if it is still good and not locked up from it coming apart on the inside. It will be fairly hard to turn but should turn and not feel like there is grinding or clunking. It is like turning an air compressor, it will feel stiff but turn.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: chillicothe, OH
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by bhennessee1
Stuck, any ideas?
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Roscoe, IL
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242 Power Tech I6
Originally Posted by bhennessee1
Stuck, any ideas?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chickamauga Ga.
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by zimbobwye
Try bumping your shifter, while removing the key.... it just happens sometimes.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chickamauga Ga.
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Disoriented Hillbilly
Tap it lightly w a pair if pliers. Or put a screwdriver against metal on ignition and whack it.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Beach, Ca
Posts: 3,500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
My xj has the 3.55 open diff...
I'm assuming a locker would do nothing for me? Do I need to swap in a LSD then get a locker?
I'm assuming a locker would do nothing for me? Do I need to swap in a LSD then get a locker?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by askingxforxit
My xj has the 3.55 open diff...
I'm assuming a locker would do nothing for me? Do I need to swap in a LSD then get a locker?
I'm assuming a locker would do nothing for me? Do I need to swap in a LSD then get a locker?
As for the other question, depending on how much you trail versus how much you DD will dep what locker you get and what axle you would lock first
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Beach, Ca
Posts: 3,500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Negative, the locker is a separate device than a LSD.
As for the other question, depending on how much you trail versus how much you DD will dep what locker you get and what axle you would lock first
I'm one of those people that don't mind spending good money on my jeep and try to get the best parts I can. Having a full time locker doesn't scare me. I'll be lifting it this year but I'm not going any higher than 3.5" and 31x10.50 I like to be prepared and self sufficient especially on camping/road trips.
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: tacoma washington
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm finally replacing the axle seals in my front end after getting it all apart and the old seals out( the old seals looked pretty good) I notice that where the seals press into there is a rubber seal is this an easy replacement? whats the part called? is it just to keep fluid from going between the outside of the seal and the axle housing? Thanks
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by askingxforxit
I dont do very much trail riding but I like to go camping once a year that often have dirt roads (sometimes trail worthy roads)
I'm one of those people that don't mind spending good money on my jeep and try to get the best parts I can. Having a full time locker doesn't scare me. I'll be lifting it this year but I'm not going any higher than 3.5" and 31x10.50 I like to be prepared and self sufficient especially on camping/road trips.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Beach, Ca
Posts: 3,500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
3.5" And some good tires is perfect for camping. At this point though I wanna redirect you to search CF for locker threads because more than likely by tomorrow morning people will flood this thread saying lock this lock that blah blah blah. If money isn't an issue the best setup is ARB air lockers. They open until you hit a button then they become full time lockers. There af decent lunch box lockers too that work when you apply throttle. This is also why I recommend searching for specific threads cause a topic like this people tend to act like their setup is the best. Heck, you can probably spartan the front and be good enough. Good luck brother
Thanks for the help dude