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CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Glendale,Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by ol"blue
They only adjust as you press the brake when you back up. Each time you do this, it should move the adjuster wheel slightly, spreading the shoes closer to the drum. Be careful, as pumping the brake too much while backing up can cause the shoes to become too close to the drums, and overheat or lockup while driving.
Read/look at this, as it will show you where the parts are, how to adjust, and how to replace if needed.>http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearDrums1.htm
Read/look at this, as it will show you where the parts are, how to adjust, and how to replace if needed.>http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearDrums1.htm
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Glendale,Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Originally Posted by ol"blue
They only adjust as you press the brake when you back up. Each time you do this, it should move the adjuster wheel slightly, spreading the shoes closer to the drum. Be careful, as pumping the brake too much while backing up can cause the shoes to become too close to the drums, and overheat or lockup while driving.
Read/look at this, as it will show you where the parts are, how to adjust, and how to replace if needed.>http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearDrums1.htm
Read/look at this, as it will show you where the parts are, how to adjust, and how to replace if needed.>http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearDrums1.htm
Also how would I know when they are tight enough?
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Glen Burnie Maryland
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6l
They only adjust as you press the brake when you back up. Each time you do this, it should move the adjuster wheel slightly, spreading the shoes closer to the drum. Be careful, as pumping the brake too much while backing up can cause the shoes to become too close to the drums, and overheat or lockup while driving.
Read/look at this, as it will show you where the parts are, how to adjust, and how to replace if needed.>http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearDrums1.htm
Read/look at this, as it will show you where the parts are, how to adjust, and how to replace if needed.>http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearDrums1.htm
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wichita
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Culprite
stoped in a shop today the said my shoes were still really think, but if i am in natural i rool back, e brake cable is as tight as it can be
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Glen Burnie Maryland
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6l
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: some small town oregon
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by kbkunz
lower sway bar bolts. pound em out? or press em out? som*****es are stuck in there good...
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ridgecrest Ca.
Posts: 202
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Woodinville, Bothell and Marysville Washington
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Originally Posted by dirt_biker_guy
Thanks Ill check it out tomorrow! Its been driving me nuts.
Member
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Location: Ridgecrest Ca.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Dang, is it under 10 bucks? lol Im on a tight budget since I have recently had two kids with my wife in the last 2 yrs! Might have to just deal with it! lol
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Location: Wichita
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Culprite
i hate the tablet! , thank you i will look innto this
AW4 Trans 2wd to 4wd
This has probably been asked before but here it goes anyway. I have a donor 4wd, 1998. Going to pick up a 2wd in Florida soon and want to convert it to 4wd. No problem with conversion, 40 years in the 'pits', can fix anything on wheels or tracks. The 98 4wd is running down the road every day, cylinder 1 is weak and is noticeable. The unit has 210k miles on it. The trans shifts well and feels solid. There is really no way for me to know how many miles are actually on the trans so I'll assume it's all of the 210k. The 2wd has about 80k on it. My question is, can the 4wd output shaft be put into the 2wd trans WITHOUT a complete disassembly? My guess is no but you never know until you ask or research and I'm not up for researching a simple question. I figured this would be the place to ask and get the right answer ASAP. If no then I'd probably just overhaul the 4wd trans and use the 2wd for hard parts if needed. Thanks in advance for helping.
Remanufactured Engine Tag on 4.0 Engine-Whose??
Hope this is the right place for this. I just purchased a used 4.0 to replace a 250K knock'r and while taking off the misc. brackets found a tag under the AC bracket. It's basically an aluminum tag painted red with a large stamped number 550612 on it and a very small #1227 in print on one corner of the tag.
Anyone know who the company is that uses this particular tag?? If I can find out it might save me some tear down time. See attached pic.
Thanks
Anyone know who the company is that uses this particular tag?? If I can find out it might save me some tear down time. See attached pic.
Thanks
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter, I6
Hi guys, i wanted to fill up my rear diff with some new oil, but i noticed theres a tag on it that says "fill up with limitted slip lube only" does this means i have got a limited slip diff in my xj? (Dana 35c) if so what oil should i use?
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Albuquerque
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0L I6
So....i'm pretty sure i have the problem figured out but thought what the heck, throw it up here and see what y'all think.
i just put in my rusty's 3" lift i picked up off craigslist last week. it didn't come with extended brake lines, so i removed the rear from the bracket and just let it hang. also the e-brake cables are hanging, as the springs broke off when i removed them (pretty rusty). i took it for a quick test drive around the block, and good news no clunks, grinding, or wobble (70mph). unfortunately, the brake light turns on shortly after running, and my power brakes went out halfway through the testdrive
i was thinking the e-brakes hanging are tripping the brake light somehow, replace springs and make them taught again,
and maybe the rear line got nicked, or because it's just hanging is preventing the power brakes from working properly?
Let me know if anyone else ran into issue such as this, or if you have any ideas at all. Thanks Guys!
i just put in my rusty's 3" lift i picked up off craigslist last week. it didn't come with extended brake lines, so i removed the rear from the bracket and just let it hang. also the e-brake cables are hanging, as the springs broke off when i removed them (pretty rusty). i took it for a quick test drive around the block, and good news no clunks, grinding, or wobble (70mph). unfortunately, the brake light turns on shortly after running, and my power brakes went out halfway through the testdrive
i was thinking the e-brakes hanging are tripping the brake light somehow, replace springs and make them taught again,
and maybe the rear line got nicked, or because it's just hanging is preventing the power brakes from working properly?
Let me know if anyone else ran into issue such as this, or if you have any ideas at all. Thanks Guys!