sycoglitch

Yea you just need a relay though

roberto1247

Hi new to this my son bought a 1998 Cherokee straigh 4.0 six with 160,000 miles looks good has a particular starting issue --it will start you drive it park it it will start again u park it then it will just crank and crank and wont "catch"-- leave it sit awhile and sometimes it will start before we start ripping things out any advise please robertgoodbar@gmail.com

stef101

Does anyone know what you hve to do to replace the trans cooler lines from the oil cooler all the way to the trans? Its a 96 Grand Cherokee with a 4.0. Ive got the part ready to go just getting alot of ways to put it in. Any help is greatly appreciated

Scott0821

I'm thinking about doing a tune up soon
So right now I'm thinking:

Spark plugs- Champion Double Platinum's (or copper)

Wires-...?...recommend brand?

Seafoam everything followed by new oil in 200 miles (best oil you've had?)

Clean tps and iac

Does a cold air intake help?

Should I replace the distributor cap?

Should I wait to seafoam it before I do anything else to it? Or dies it matter?

Feel free to put your imput in about this and what I'm missing. Please help with with my questions as well. Thanks!

salad

Spark plugs: Champion or NGK coppers, the platium ones are fine on engines with different thermal profiles, but about 99% of 4.0L owners report problems. Champion RC12ECC is OEM for 1999, NGK ZFR5N will also work great (OEM for 2000+)

Wires: I've got a nice set of NGK wires, they're pretty and blue and are numbered I think some people on here are fans of Champion and Belden.

Distributor cap/rotors: Accel, BWD, and NAPA Premium I recall. Decent quality gear with brass contacts to resist corrosion. You want to do this at the same time as the plugs/wires... or sorta the same time, don't get the wires crossed

When doing the plugs/wires/distributor/cap get yourself some grease. There are two kinds I use:

Electric: Apply *ON* contacts to prevent corrosion, this stuff is actually electrically conductive and will fix the issue of plugs and wires being welded together (lol #1 spark plug such a pain to remove). Only brand I'm familiar with is NO-OX-ID by Sanchem.
Dielectric: Apply *NEAR* contacts to basically waterproof connectors, this stuff is electrically insulative and should not be used on connectors themselves. Permatex is the most popular brand.

Seafoam: I'd be leary on this unless you have a good idea of the health of the engine internally. Gunk can be dislodged and cause issues. I would play it safe only leave it in the crankcase for like 50 miles. In the fuel and TB or brake booster is less likely to cause issues. At any rate I'd do this first so your new spark plugs aren't fouled.

Clean TPS and IAC: Yep, in fact I'd pop off the throttle body and scrub that puppy out.

Oil: Yes, you should run oil. My personal preference is a synthetic with zinc. A lot of people run Shell Rotella T or T6, and a lot of people run Wal-Mart Supertech 5W30 dino oil, or whatever's on sale that week lol. There are almost weekly threads on this. Just change it on interval and use a good filter! DO NOT BUY FRAM! Here are some part numbers for decent oversize filters (will fit on a 1999, sorry not familiar with the P/Ns for OEM sizing)

K&N Gold: HP-3001
Mobil 1: M1-301
Motorcraft: FL1A
Napa Gold: 1515
Purolator: L30001
WIX: 51515

CAIs aren't exactly a tuneup discussion... a higher flow intake and exhaust system definitely helps, yes. Tons of info on here for searching.

Scott0821

Hey thanks for the great info! How do you feel about royal purple for the trans and diff?

D_Conrad

I know what it is I was wondering if its better then having it go through the radiator. I have the lines off another jeep to set it up like that. The radiator has the spots for it too. Im just wondering what option is better.

salad

Not personally familiar with it but I haven't seen anyone post negatively about it. The only thing that comes to mind is that they don't have a fluid appropriate for the AX-15 transmission or the other manuals present in our Jeeps... for that application you're better off with Redline MT-90, Pennzoil Synchromesh, or any other synchromesh-specific manual transmission lube. If you have an AX-5 or AX-15 don't dump motor oil or API GL-5 gear oil in there.

olmiaakc

i have a 1990 cherokee ltd with i6.have standard vacuum routing according to manual with one vacuum line running from the rear of valve cover to the intake and a breather line running from front of valve cover to air filter housing/tube (aftermarket) oil migrates thru these lines into intake and air filter making a mess.wanted to install push in breathers but when i plug the vacuum line to the rear of valve cover the engine idle drops and it eventually dies.is this supposed to happen,or does it indicate a problem.

Nperryman

I can not get my electric fan to kick on. I don't have my low pressure switch connected to the accumulator, would that mean anything? Because that's what keep the compressor running. It is bypassed though, do the air conditioning is in. How do I test the fan?

DESERTXJ206

You could connect the fan to a toggle switch. A lot of people do that for ease of use. The factory efan kicks on with either a/c or when engine temps are 218*. IMO the 218 is a little high for it to kick on so I run a toggle. Hope this helps.

Scott0821

What temp do you usually turn it on at?

DESERTXJ206

My Cherokee has had cooling issues since I have bought It so as soon as I start my truck I turn it on. Most people who do not have cooling problems turn it on when in traffic, out offroading when speeds are pretty slow. But I live in az where temps get about 115 in the summer so mines always on just to make me feel better about preventing it from running hot. But I'd say kick it on at maybe 210 and see if your gauge creeps down a bit.

salad

No, that's supposed to happen. The engine depends on that flow of air to run properly. It sucks up combustion gasses from blowby and other fumes. Excessive oil vapor indicates worn rings or a clogged CCV system. All them elbows, tubes, and connectors should be cleaned out or replaced. Unfortunately if you have worn rings your crankcase will push out more oil vapor than usual, a few people have had success with putting an el-cheapo fuel filter inline with the rear hose (to the intake manifold) to catch the extra vapors.

Check out these:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/oil...2/#post1712128

Kuro89

My cps tested at .4 vac is that bad enough for a no start situation?