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05-27-2012, 11:22 AM
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idle issue ...I think
Hello everyone and thanks for any help you give. I am new here but I own a couple jeeps. Here is my question. I have a 1997 cherokee sport. I went to get it inspected and there was an issue . The guy said it looked like it had an oil leek somewhere around the steering pump but he could not tell so it failed.
I looked closer at it when I get home and it turns out the tranny line was leeking where it goes into the top of the radiator. I tightened it up and then I took it to the car wash. I pressure washed the engine compartment and the under carrage. Took it home and did not drive it till the next day. I have a boat that I tow with this jeep. I went to tow the boat the next day and the jeep was running weird. Bucking and not shifting untill I hit 4,000 rpm. Also the check engine light came on. I figured I must have some condensation in my cap. After about 10 minutes of driving the engine stopped acting up and ran fine. I decided to continue my trip to the lake. Today I took the cap off. It had no water and it was not that bad but I changed it anyway. The guy at the parts store said that my year jeep was made with 2 different distributors and the cap he was giving me might not be the right one.
I compaired them when I got home and they seem the same. I installed the cap and rotor and started it up. It seemed to run fine so I unplugged the battery to reset the check engine light. After a little while I hooked the battery back up and went to start it. This time it went to 2100 rpm and then the check engine light came back on. Did I get the wrong cap? Or is this just the TPS failing?
I looked closer at it when I get home and it turns out the tranny line was leeking where it goes into the top of the radiator. I tightened it up and then I took it to the car wash. I pressure washed the engine compartment and the under carrage. Took it home and did not drive it till the next day. I have a boat that I tow with this jeep. I went to tow the boat the next day and the jeep was running weird. Bucking and not shifting untill I hit 4,000 rpm. Also the check engine light came on. I figured I must have some condensation in my cap. After about 10 minutes of driving the engine stopped acting up and ran fine. I decided to continue my trip to the lake. Today I took the cap off. It had no water and it was not that bad but I changed it anyway. The guy at the parts store said that my year jeep was made with 2 different distributors and the cap he was giving me might not be the right one.
I compaired them when I got home and they seem the same. I installed the cap and rotor and started it up. It seemed to run fine so I unplugged the battery to reset the check engine light. After a little while I hooked the battery back up and went to start it. This time it went to 2100 rpm and then the check engine light came back on. Did I get the wrong cap? Or is this just the TPS failing?
05-27-2012, 11:28 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Hello everyone and thanks for any help you give. I am new here but I own a couple jeeps. Here is my question. I have a 1997 cherokee sport. I went to get it inspected and there was an issue . The guy said it looked like it had an oil leek somewhere around the steering pump but he could not tell so it failed.
I looked closer at it when I get home and it turns out the tranny line was leeking where it goes into the top of the radiator. I tightened it up and then I took it to the car wash. I pressure washed the engine compartment and the under carrage. Took it home and did not drive it till the next day. I have a boat that I tow with this jeep. I went to tow the boat the next day and the jeep was running weird. Bucking and not shifting untill I hit 4,000 rpm. Also the check engine light came on. I figured I must have some condensation in my cap. After about 10 minutes of driving the engine stopped acting up and ran fine. I decided to continue my trip to the lake. Today I took the cap off. It had no water and it was not that bad but I changed it anyway. The guy at the parts store said that my year jeep was made with 2 different distributors and the cap he was giving me might not be the right one.
I compaired them when I got home and they seem the same. I installed the cap and rotor and started it up. It seemed to run fine so I unplugged the battery to reset the check engine light. After a little while I hooked the battery back up and went to start it. This time it went to 2100 rpm and then the check engine light came back on. Did I get the wrong cap? Or is this just the TPS failing?
I looked closer at it when I get home and it turns out the tranny line was leeking where it goes into the top of the radiator. I tightened it up and then I took it to the car wash. I pressure washed the engine compartment and the under carrage. Took it home and did not drive it till the next day. I have a boat that I tow with this jeep. I went to tow the boat the next day and the jeep was running weird. Bucking and not shifting untill I hit 4,000 rpm. Also the check engine light came on. I figured I must have some condensation in my cap. After about 10 minutes of driving the engine stopped acting up and ran fine. I decided to continue my trip to the lake. Today I took the cap off. It had no water and it was not that bad but I changed it anyway. The guy at the parts store said that my year jeep was made with 2 different distributors and the cap he was giving me might not be the right one.
I compaired them when I got home and they seem the same. I installed the cap and rotor and started it up. It seemed to run fine so I unplugged the battery to reset the check engine light. After a little while I hooked the battery back up and went to start it. This time it went to 2100 rpm and then the check engine light came back on. Did I get the wrong cap? Or is this just the TPS failing?
05-27-2012, 12:23 PM
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Hello everyone and thanks for any help you give. I am new here but I own a couple jeeps. Here is my question. I have a 1997 cherokee sport. I went to get it inspected and there was an issue . The guy said it looked like it had an oil leek somewhere around the steering pump but he could not tell so it failed.
I looked closer at it when I get home and it turns out the tranny line was leeking where it goes into the top of the radiator. I tightened it up and then I took it to the car wash. I pressure washed the engine compartment and the under carrage. Took it home and did not drive it till the next day. I have a boat that I tow with this jeep. I went to tow the boat the next day and the jeep was running weird. Bucking and not shifting untill I hit 4,000 rpm. Also the check engine light came on. I figured I must have some condensation in my cap. After about 10 minutes of driving the engine stopped acting up and ran fine. I decided to continue my trip to the lake. Today I took the cap off. It had no water and it was not that bad but I changed it anyway. The guy at the parts store said that my year jeep was made with 2 different distributors and the cap he was giving me might not be the right one.
I compaired them when I got home and they seem the same. I installed the cap and rotor and started it up. It seemed to run fine so I unplugged the battery to reset the check engine light. After a little while I hooked the battery back up and went to start it. This time it went to 2100 rpm and then the check engine light came back on. Did I get the wrong cap? Or is this just the TPS failing?
I looked closer at it when I get home and it turns out the tranny line was leeking where it goes into the top of the radiator. I tightened it up and then I took it to the car wash. I pressure washed the engine compartment and the under carrage. Took it home and did not drive it till the next day. I have a boat that I tow with this jeep. I went to tow the boat the next day and the jeep was running weird. Bucking and not shifting untill I hit 4,000 rpm. Also the check engine light came on. I figured I must have some condensation in my cap. After about 10 minutes of driving the engine stopped acting up and ran fine. I decided to continue my trip to the lake. Today I took the cap off. It had no water and it was not that bad but I changed it anyway. The guy at the parts store said that my year jeep was made with 2 different distributors and the cap he was giving me might not be the right one.
I compaired them when I got home and they seem the same. I installed the cap and rotor and started it up. It seemed to run fine so I unplugged the battery to reset the check engine light. After a little while I hooked the battery back up and went to start it. This time it went to 2100 rpm and then the check engine light came back on. Did I get the wrong cap? Or is this just the TPS failing?
05-27-2012, 12:27 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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05-27-2012, 12:42 PM
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So I have an aw4 laying around and want to clean it up and put it in. Before I put it in I want to clean the tps real well to make sure it is not a problem. The only thing is I hear that when you do that the tranny has to be on neutral before you take it out. Is this true? If so how would I put it in neutral when it is just sitting in a shop?
05-27-2012, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Cherokee1690
So I have an aw4 laying around and want to clean it up and put it in. Before I put it in I want to clean the tps real well to make sure it is not a problem. The only thing is I hear that when you do that the tranny has to be on neutral before you take it out. Is this true? If so how would I put it in neutral when it is just sitting in a shop?
05-27-2012, 02:08 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission in neutral does not matter for TPS removal. Also TPS can't really be cleaned other than ensuring the connection is clean and using some dielectric grease on it.... You know the TPS is on the throttle body, not on the tranny, right?
Last edited by cranesrule; 05-27-2012 at 02:11 PM.
05-27-2012, 05:02 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
U-bolt Sizes
Been doing some searches on U-bolt sizes trying to figure out what I need. Would anybody know the measurements for U-bolts for a chrysler 8.25? Also I'm going with new leaf packs (OME 2") and am not sure how long the new U-bolts have to be. Any help would be much appreciated!
05-27-2012, 05:07 PM
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by cranesrule
Transmission in neutral does not matter for TPS removal. Also TPS can't really be cleaned other than ensuring the connection is clean and using some dielectric grease on it.... You know the TPS is on the throttle body, not on the tranny, right?
05-27-2012, 05:28 PM
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by xj guy
Been doing some searches on U-bolt sizes trying to figure out what I need. Would anybody know the measurements for U-bolts for a chrysler 8.25? Also I'm going with new leaf packs (OME 2") and am not sure how long the new U-bolts have to be. Any help would be much appreciated!
05-27-2012, 06:01 PM
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05-27-2012, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
I believe he may be thinking about the nss. That's something you'd like to keep clean. And make sure its in nuetral before removing it.
05-27-2012, 08:15 PM
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by xj guy
Would know how tall the Stock bolts are? A buddy of mine works for Fastnal and he said he can get me a solid price. Also Grade 8 correct?
05-27-2012, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by xj guy
Would know how tall the Stock bolts are? A buddy of mine works for Fastnal and he said he can get me a solid price. Also Grade 8 correct?