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06-13-2012, 01:13 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
yea. Gutter mounts can support a lot of weight since it's the structural seam of the vehicle.
06-13-2012, 01:51 PM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
Okay, yesterday I got on the freeway and when I was accelerating to about 60-65mph my xj felt like someone (the night before) had put a drive shaft limiter on it. The drivetrain noise increased, not a grinding or clanking sound, just a louder whirring noise as if there was something binding somewhere. If I stayed below 60mph there was no sound or resistance. I shifted to full-time 4wd and the sound and resistance went away until I reached 75mph. Around town at lower speeds everything seems normal. I changed the tranny and t-case fluids (no debris in old fluid). The rear diff was a little low but after topping off the same thing happened. Any ideas? Stock 91 XJ limited 4.0L, AW4, NP242, D35 rear diff,
06-13-2012, 04:34 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rear Brakes
06-13-2012, 05:05 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 L
Originally Posted by Juan Rabago
Thanks. The sound is coming from the right rear tire. sorry if Im responding wrong, still trying to get the hang of the forum.
06-13-2012, 05:54 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
06-13-2012, 07:22 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by zimbobwye
Is it a new, "new" radio? Typically all new radios have a built-in capacitor, which eliminates that noise you're hearing. What you're hearing is a type of interference which actually comes from your alternator spinning faster as your engine accelerates.
06-13-2012, 07:24 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s
Also look at your plug wires. Most say interference free. If not its a good place to start lol
06-13-2012, 07:27 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rear Brakes
When I started to take off the old brakes, I noticed there was more wear and tear on the top front of the right rear brakes. do you know if that came from the E-brake being used to much. maybe. I do not have lockers
Last edited by Juan Rabago; 06-13-2012 at 07:31 PM.
06-13-2012, 08:38 PM
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
'98 Cherokee Sport 5 speed v6 4.0
recently had the wires ripped out of my o2 sensor after the cat converter. a short time after i replaced it with a new o2 sensor (check engine light still on, never reset), it started bucking in lower gears. it feels like a fuel problem, but it idles fine.
i've tried to do a self-test to see what codes come up, not sure if i did it right. when i press the trip/odometer button, turn the key "on" and let go of the button, "2.3" shows up for a second (different from my tripometer reading).
any ideas on the problem? or a way to bring up the p-codes that i haven't tried?
thanks.
recently had the wires ripped out of my o2 sensor after the cat converter. a short time after i replaced it with a new o2 sensor (check engine light still on, never reset), it started bucking in lower gears. it feels like a fuel problem, but it idles fine.
i've tried to do a self-test to see what codes come up, not sure if i did it right. when i press the trip/odometer button, turn the key "on" and let go of the button, "2.3" shows up for a second (different from my tripometer reading).
any ideas on the problem? or a way to bring up the p-codes that i haven't tried?
thanks.
06-13-2012, 08:53 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: v6 4.0
getting it to an auto store is a bit difficult, was hoping to do it myself if at all possible..
any more help would be appreciated, and any more info you need let me know.
thanks again.
06-13-2012, 09:14 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Carruthers
thanks!
getting it to an auto store is a bit difficult, was hoping to do it myself if at all possible..
any more help would be appreciated, and any more info you need let me know.
thanks again.
06-13-2012, 09:33 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: v6 4.0
06-13-2012, 09:36 PM
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
If you just want to get it running you can try unhooking both battery cables, then hold them together for 15 seconds to drain any residual charge from the PCM. This will erase any trouble codes and reset it and place it in learning mode. Reconnect the cables, then if possible, drive it until it learns the parameters and acts normal again. Usually 5-10 miles.