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Old 06-21-2012, 07:20 AM
  #12316  
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Compressor cycling: A) not enough refrigerant to keep compressor cool B)low pressure C) cabin was cool and did not need the compressor. Putting charge in solved the problem, the compressor should run constantly until not needed. Also, if you have too much pressure, our compressors for the cherokee have a blow-off type valve at the back, let it do its thing.
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:18 AM
  #12317  
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Originally Posted by zimbobwye
Anyone else see that the government is starting to investigate rear end collisions on GRAND Cherokees '93 & up? Heh.
FIFY

...and the claim that the gas tanks explode in a RE collision is retarded and has been around for quite a while....
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:28 AM
  #12318  
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Originally Posted by Griff94
I have a conundrum...my dad told me he has a friend who started powdercoating and he offered to do my wheels for like 75 a piece....should I get the stock wheels powdercoated or get blackrock d-windows?
$75 each? That seems awfully high - at least for my area. I was quoted $100 for all 5 of my rims. I know he's your dad's friend and all but you might want check some more coaters if you plan to go that route.
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:37 AM
  #12319  
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why not just paint them yourself? either sand them down or have a local machine shop media blast them, then primer paint clear - easy!
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:30 AM
  #12320  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
why not just paint them yourself? either sand them down or have a local machine shop media blast them, then primer paint clear - easy!
x2.
Just do what dukie describes it is by far the cheapest and easiest way. With my media blaster from harbor freight ($30) and my pancake compressor I sand/media blast a $hit ton of stuff, it's paid for itself 10 times over by doing other peoples items, it is well worth the investment if your looking for one. Sand is about $7 for 50lbs at tractor supply stores (just be sure to get the 'fine' sand - ask me how I know.)
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:39 PM
  #12321  
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Is bump steer what you feel when you hit a bump and your wheel takes a sudden jolt? I always see people talk about it but never knew what they were talking about.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:56 PM
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yup that'd be it!
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:15 PM
  #12323  
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Originally Posted by Jace
the compressor should run constantly until not needed.
That's what my gut said and my HVAC uncle, but I'm thinking it should cycle. How long does yours run typically before clicking off?
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:47 PM
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I'm still confused... So it should be cycling less than ten times a minute, but shouldn't be running constantly? O'Reillys has the switch for 16.99. I'll replace that and see what happens.
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:32 PM
  #12325  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
yup that'd be it!
So I take it the steering stabilizer is basically a shock to help prevent that jolt?
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by xj guy

So I take it the steering stabilizer is basically a shock to help prevent that jolt?
Helps yes, but a lot of things are also factors in that. Steering angles, shocks and bushings also play a big factor in that.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:17 PM
  #12327  
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I'm a noob with a seriously aggravating electrical problem.....I've got a 95 Cherokee Sport that's been giving me some trouble with it's pwr windows, locks, heat, ac, radio, signals, wipers, etc. working whenever they felt like it, if at all....several of my interior fuses blew so i replaced all of them only to discover it was a temporary fix.....so I ripped open the driver side door panel and rewired everything from the door to the fuse box (lots of wear and tear and several exposed wires including at the door hinge all got redone and taped up excessively)..... so now everything but the windows work....I coated the panel in dielectric grease (lots of copper corrosion) and crossed my fingers but still no go....Now I've got the fuse panel pulled out but so I can see what's up behind it but I don't know my *** from a hole in the ground when it comes to this kind of ****.....and I cant find a visual diagram for it anywhere (She didn't come with an owner's manual)....So I guess my question is this: If there's no damage to any wires back there and everything is where it's supposed to be (provided I find a good wiring diagram) and it's not every motor in all 4 doors, then am I back to simply getting another 30A circuit breaker fuse ( it'd be the fifth in 2 weeks) or do I quit and bring her to a pro? And if I am wired wrong behind the panel then how do I go about fixing it? Please help a girl out before she can no long fight the urge to driver it off a cliff.....

P.S. Am I alone in this or is this electrical crap typical for the year, make and model?
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:05 PM
  #12328  
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The pressure reading after the Jeep sat overnight was right around 100psi with it off. With the engine and AC on the reading is just over 20psi (compressor running) and 45psi(compressor off). I disconnected the switch and made sure it had a good connection.

Does this sound normal? the psi should be 30/40psi, right?

The compressor did start to cycle with the AC set to 1 non recirculate...
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:49 PM
  #12329  
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Is this lift better than the add a leaf set? http://www.jeep4x4center.com/rough-c...s-rc-630h.html

this is the add a leaf set: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/rough-c...s-rc-670h.html

and will the shocks be enough for a DD with light trail riding, no hardcore. i have searched but i want to make sure that THIS lift has the right things. I dont really understand the difference in the rear spring vs add-a-leaf lifts but i heard that the spring kits are better than add-a-leafs. Any help is appreciated
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:53 PM
  #12330  
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Ok, so I did the d35 to c8.25 swap. What fuse/fuses/relays do I pull to make the abs light go out? I pulled one, a few, a few different combos with no luck. Help.
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