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Old 07-02-2012, 08:09 PM
  #12586  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
I meant a bad NSS wouldn't cause the clicking sound when you start the jeep. A bad battery would. Have you try hitting the starter with a hammer to see if the starter is going. Also when did you clean the grounds and clamps. How long after the new battery. If you items were corroded even a new battery would eventually lose charge since it isn't charging right
I just cleaned them now since it wont start, this is a new issue the battary isnt bad it is all reading 12 volts even at the starter, i had the starter tested at autozone and it passed so i dont think its that, the only clicking i hear is from the relay and that is when you put the battary to it Also checked battary wires and they seem okay, enogh to get 12 through them
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bush League 96 XJ
I just cleaned them now since it wont start, this is a new issue the battary isnt bad it is all reading 12 volts even at the starter, i had the starter tested at autozone and it passed so i dont think its that, the only clicking i hear is from the relay and that is when you put the battary to it Also checked battary wires and they seem okay, enogh to get 12 through them
try having someone jump it, just to rule out the battery.
also, 12v as in 12.00? anything less than 12.5 or so will cause some iffy cranking
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:37 PM
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i've read the ZJ pitman arm gives a .75 - 1" drop over the stock XJ arm; i went to the junkyard and pulled one from the first ZJ i saw and compared it to the one in my 97 XJ, it looks damn near the same, it MIGHT have a slight drop to it but i think im just imagining it. is there a specific year zj i shouldve been lookin for? or is the difference that hard to see

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Old 07-03-2012, 03:49 AM
  #12589  
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In my 89' Jeep Cherokee my brake proportioning valve leaks I purchased a replacement taking the old valve off I accidentally rounded a couple of sides off of the flare nuts and I can't seem to find them online or their sizes without having to go buy a chilton's book or anything.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bucky
In my 89' Jeep Cherokee my brake proportioning valve leaks I purchased a replacement taking the old valve off I accidentally rounded a couple of sides off of the flare nuts and I can't seem to find them online or their sizes without having to go buy a chilton's book or anything.
Take them to the hardware store and See what size they are. There should be a board of nuts/bolts to check thread pitch and a ruler to check the head size. If they don't have a board of test bolts then just try bolts till one fits. They are most likely metric.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by rompnXJ
i've read the ZJ pitman arm gives a .75 - 1" drop over the stock XJ arm; i went to the junkyard and pulled one from the first ZJ i saw and compared it to the one in my 97 XJ, it looks damn near the same, it MIGHT have a slight drop to it but i think im just imagining it. is there a specific year zj i shouldve been lookin for? or is the difference that hard to see
needs to be off a V8 ZJ
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:29 PM
  #12592  
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Originally Posted by rompnXJ
try having someone jump it, just to rule out the battery.
also, 12v as in 12.00? anything less than 12.5 or so will cause some iffy cranking
Yeah we tried that just to make sure and no change and yest its around 12.5 im not sure on the exact voltage, but i am not getting any cranking at all, just nothing when i turn the key, are there any fuses that would keep it from turning over under the dash? i know there is a 30 amp that will keep it from turning over but it will crank in the fuse box but all of those fuses are good.
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Bush League 96 XJ
Yeah we tried that just to make sure and no change and yest its around 12.5 im not sure on the exact voltage, but i am not getting any cranking at all, just nothing when i turn the key, are there any fuses that would keep it from turning over under the dash? i know there is a 30 amp that will keep it from turning over but it will crank in the fuse box but all of those fuses are good.
my first step would be to change the battery terminals and clean the posts. You may have a good voltage reading at the starter, but that is not mean you have a connection / wire that will support the AMPERAGE necessary to crank the engine.

I'd also stick a multimeter on the trigger wire for the starter (the little one) and make sure you get a voltage reading when the key is turned to "crank"
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
my first step would be to change the battery terminals and clean the posts. You may have a good voltage reading at the starter, but that is not mean you have a connection / wire that will support the AMPERAGE necessary to crank the engine.

I'd also stick a multimeter on the trigger wire for the starter (the little one) and make sure you get a voltage reading when the key is turned to "crank"
Tried cleaning the posts and the terminals were replaced when i replaced the battery but i suppose they could have corroded, i could pick up a new wire kit and try that
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bush League 96 XJ
Tried cleaning the posts and the terminals were replaced when i replaced the battery but i suppose they could have corroded, i could pick up a new wire kit and try that
Also, follow the rest of my writeup

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/non...writeup-71401/
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:25 PM
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Default oil filter adapter leak 88 renix 4.0 xj

Finally able to trace down my small oil leak. Seems to be from the seal between the oil filter adapter & the block. I've got the older-style adapter that's verticle/upside-down. Since I'm taking it off to replace o-rings, can I pull a newer horizontal-style adapter & mount on a renix block? Local jy has a couple xj's w/ horiz-style. From my multiple searches, I'm gonna need a 16mm socket for renix, & a t60 socket for horiz-style. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Old 07-04-2012, 04:54 AM
  #12597  
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Default Possible front end damage, what Should I look for...

A few months ago I decided to paint the faded plastic bumper trim pieces (not sure of the correct term for them, one on each side) and found junk yard part numbers on the back. Also when I removed these for prep and paint I discovered that front bumper was originally red and painted black to match. The hood on Jeep does not sit flush/level like it should. I am thinking that there was some kind of damage done to the front end. Possible wreck/rear end accident. The PO was a friend of my sisters, but I get no response from her regarding the issue.

From what I can tell, the frame looks good. Is there anything else that I should look for or be wary of? Here is a pic of the hood, not a great pic, but can see that it isn't right.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:19 AM
  #12598  
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Originally Posted by Dro
A few months ago I decided to paint the faded plastic bumper trim pieces (not sure of the correct term for them, one on each side) and found junk yard part numbers on the back. Also when I removed these for prep and paint I discovered that front bumper was originally red and painted black to match. The hood on Jeep does not sit flush/level like it should. I am thinking that there was some kind of damage done to the front end. Possible wreck/rear end accident. The PO was a friend of my sisters, but I get no response from her regarding the issue.

From what I can tell, the frame looks good. Is there anything else that I should look for or be wary of? Here is a pic of the hood, not a great pic, but can see that it isn't right.
My '88 sits like that, but I assume it's from 24 years of the hood being propped on one side. From what you describe, it sounds likely that there was damage of some sort. Maybe serious, maybe not. If the frame rails look good, I don't know what else to look for. Maybe someone else can chime in. And on a side note, those are the bumper end caps.
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:38 AM
  #12599  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

My '88 sits like that, but I assume it's from 24 years of the hood being propped on one side. From what you describe, it sounds likely that there was damage of some sort. Maybe serious, maybe not. If the frame rails look good, I don't know what else to look for. Maybe someone else can chime in. And on a side note, those are the bumper end caps.
The only thing I can add this already good answer is, if you want to really go in depth, take the front bumper end apps off and do a visual from that point and check the radiator support to make sure it's straight. Other than that as long as she drives straight and theres no paint bubbling you should be fine
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bush League 96 XJ
Yeah we tried that just to make sure and no change and yest its around 12.5 im not sure on the exact voltage, but i am not getting any cranking at all, just nothing when i turn the key, are there any fuses that would keep it from turning over under the dash? i know there is a 30 amp that will keep it from turning over but it will crank in the fuse box but all of those fuses are good.
Just a though. I occasionally have exactly that problem when I attempt to start in "Park", zero cranking. However if I switch to "Neutral", presto, Jeep immediately cranks and starts.
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