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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Model: Cherokee
The only thing I can add this already good answer is, if you want to really go in depth, take the front bumper end apps off and do a visual from that point and check the radiator support to make sure it's straight. Other than that as long as she drives straight and theres no paint bubbling you should be fine
On a side note, can the plastic guards that attach behind the Bumper end caps (in front of the front tires) be taken off without any issues? I recently put on 30x9.5x15's (no lift, Jeep height is stock) and have some rubbing when I turn to the right. Looking at it, those fender well plastic pieces are getting chewed up. Or would it best to trim them up a bit?
Moderator of Jeeps
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Thanks for the quick replies! I looked around as best I could when I had the bumper caps off and everything looked good to me, but my inexperience with the front end parts made me ask the question.
On a side note, can the plastic guards that attach behind the Bumper end caps (in front of the front tires) be taken off without any issues? I recently put on 30x9.5x15's (no lift, Jeep height is stock) and have some rubbing when I turn to the right. Looking at it, those fender well plastic pieces are getting chewed up. Or would it best to trim them up a bit?
On a side note, can the plastic guards that attach behind the Bumper end caps (in front of the front tires) be taken off without any issues? I recently put on 30x9.5x15's (no lift, Jeep height is stock) and have some rubbing when I turn to the right. Looking at it, those fender well plastic pieces are getting chewed up. Or would it best to trim them up a bit?
Moderator of Jeeps
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
It can, but I don't know for how long, and I'm told it isn't comfortable. Look into the Durango steering box. It's bolt-in from a 98/99 V8 Durango (without the plow option). Makes steering easier on you, but i don't know if the box is stronger.
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rome NY, by way of Myrtle Beach SC
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Lifter question
So here's my issue, in the process of a top end rebuild (1991 4.0HO) I yanked the lifters out yesterday, and there is about a 1/4" difference in the hight of the new lifters I ordered. (new are taller) Now I triple checked part numbers and even asked on here before I ordered them to ensure I ordered the correct parts. So here's my question, Does anyone know the stock lifter height?
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by Z.paul17
Will the stock steering box turn 35 12.50
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Like clown said, get that box upgraded as well as a new tie rod and end too if those aren't done either. Even of it works at first it'll eventually cause unnecessary strain on you and you jeep.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Is there any one problem that can cause the CPS, ASD, and misfire codes? I've been having stall problems, replaced the battery (tested bad), TPS (got ahead of myself), and CPS (tested bad). Replaced the CPS, cleared the codes, and now it still stalls while giving up no codes. It was showing codes for the CPS, ASD, and misfire before the CPS was replaced. '97 4.0L AW4, thanks in advance for any help.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Originally Posted by zombiegirl827
Two Questions! How hard is it to replace a gas tank & a rear wheel seal?
Axle seal depends on which axle you have. C-clip ones require sone work in the differential, non-clip units are bolted on and I don't think need the diff opened. In either case looks less annoying then the gas tank lol
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High Output
Gas tank looks like a massive pain in the ****. You have to drain it and work all the hoses, filler neck, and pump assembly ouy of it. If you're taking it out replace what you can while you're at it, and do any other related work in the area like welds, rust repair, paint the floor, etc.
Axle seal depends on which axle you have. C-clip ones require sone work in the differential, non-clip units are bolted on and I don't think need the diff opened. In either case looks less annoying then the gas tank lol
Axle seal depends on which axle you have. C-clip ones require sone work in the differential, non-clip units are bolted on and I don't think need the diff opened. In either case looks less annoying then the gas tank lol
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by zombiegirl827
Hahah thanks! My gas tank has two leaks in it, and the wheel seal is leaking pretty bad, saw it last night when we looked over the jeep again. Ugh, more work and no play! ;-(
Moderator of Jeeps
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I just recently did mine. Took me a couple days, but I was working on my Jeep in between my 12 hour shifts at work. It was a pain, and like they said, replace everything you can while you're in there. Tank, straps, sending unit, hoses, filler neck/overflow hose. Speaking of this, i still need to put my skid back on...
Anyway, '88 MJ gas tank swap from my build thread:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/re...9/#post1844254
Anyway, '88 MJ gas tank swap from my build thread:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/re...9/#post1844254