odgreen

just get what ever you wanna spend the money on...
either one will work.
and your engine aint gonna fall out.

cob24

The bushings are very rotted though. I was able to stick my finger all the way through to the other side on the drivers side. That can't be safe to drive on right?

Bush League 96 XJ

Honestly as long as they are tight your good, if one of your motor mount was actually out you would know. your whole jeep would shake and vibrate pretty bad, but if they are rotting you should replace them.

cob24

Yeah I'm going to replace them. The mount themselves are still instant but when I start it it starts hard and I feel it throughout, same thing when i shut it down. Just worried that since I've been trying to figure out this squeak for a month now with no luck that my grace period may be up

odgreen

Ok so to make u feel better...
There was no rubber left in my motor mounts when I replaced them. It's not going to fall out.

DESERTXJ206

The poly ones will cause vibration because of how stiff they are. They will outlast the OEM many times but the less vibration of the two would be the rubber OEM. People say with tighter stiffer motor mounts you will get tighter power and torque to the drivetrain. I can see where they would get that due to hard acceleration the engine will shift a bit before it sends power back. The poly will allow less engine movement causing more vibes throughout the Jeep. Just my . 02

cob24

That actually does make me feel better

Bush League 96 XJ

lol

cob24

Anyone know a good brand for stock replacement mounts?

jonahdfish

i have a 89 cherokee it will start easily and it can reeve in park or neutral but when you shift it into drive or reverse it will shut off. Also (its been doing this since i got it) you smell gas when you drive it any ideas?

waffalz22

Can some one point me in the direction of a weldless rear cut and fold write up I don't have access to a welder

Kuro89

Haven't seen one, but you could just substitute rivets and silicone for welding

NewKindOfClown

I'd say it's the same process, but you rivet or seal instead of welding, like he said. Welding will be better and stronger, but I don't think you'd have trouble either way. Watch out for the pinch seams, though, if you aren't rewelding.

pvt_pyle

I'm not really sure whether or not this belong in this thread but I have a problem with my headlights. Awhile back the low beams stopped working and I found a short in the plug connected to the light switch. I swapped out the plug, rewired everything and changed the fuse but they still won't work. The high beams work fine so I'm really not sure what else I could be missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

waffalz22

Mk thanks but could you guys point me to a normal good write up on rear quarter cut and fold