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Old 07-15-2012, 01:21 PM
  #12766  
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Angry Axles, Ball Joints, and Anger Management

I live in the middle of nowhere. I was changing front brake pads on our 98 Xj 4x4 and busted a caliper bolt off in the steering knuckle. I screwed up drilling it out, which started this awful welding-drilling-more-drilling-cursing-saga that finally culminated in having to surrender and get a new knuckle, which I rode my motorcycle 200 miles to get. I finally got the old knuckle off after breaking my 3lb mallet. But, in my anger and frustration with getting the knuckle off, I got even more stupid and, for some reason, thought it might be a good idea to whack on the end of the axle as hard as I could a bunch of times (prior to breaking the mallet all together.) Its probably a good thing that there wasn't any dynamite around. At any rate, now that I got the knuckle off and have had some time to chill out, what I am wondering is: how do I check that axle u-joint with the wheel and everything off? How likely is it that I may have damaged it? How do I check the ball-joints now that I have the knuckle off and, I just learned, may have access to a press to pull them? I am trying to take my family on a much needed vacation this week and this is our only car. Today, Sunday, is the only day I have to fix it and the closest auto part store is an hour away. If I need to go there, I can't forget anything that I might need. Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated - even more so if it is immediate. Thanx.
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Bolt mirrors to fenders or A-pillar, half doors, get one that you can attach with a bolt through the hinge, or whatever creative answer you can come up with. You could probably find one to clamp on the A-pillar. Most states that I've looked at only require an interior rearview and a driver-side exterior.
Ya I bought a universal one from advanced auto but haven't got around to make it work yet
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by paulutions
I live in the middle of nowhere. I was changing front brake pads on our 98 Xj 4x4 and busted a caliper bolt off in the steering knuckle. I screwed up drilling it out, which started this awful welding-drilling-more-drilling-cursing-saga that finally culminated in having to surrender and get a new knuckle, which I rode my motorcycle 200 miles to get. I finally got the old knuckle off after breaking my 3lb mallet. But, in my anger and frustration with getting the knuckle off, I got even more stupid and, for some reason, thought it might be a good idea to whack on the end of the axle as hard as I could a bunch of times (prior to breaking the mallet all together.) Its probably a good thing that there wasn't any dynamite around. At any rate, now that I got the knuckle off and have had some time to chill out, what I am wondering is: how do I check that axle u-joint with the wheel and everything off? How likely is it that I may have damaged it? How do I check the ball-joints now that I have the knuckle off and, I just learned, may have access to a press to pull them? I am trying to take my family on a much needed vacation this week and this is our only car. Today, Sunday, is the only day I have to fix it and the closest auto part store is an hour away. If I need to go there, I can't forget anything that I might need. Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated - even more so if it is immediate. Thanx.
Turn the outer part of able shafts and watch the u joint where they insert into the u joints cups. Should be no play between the u joint and cups. There should be no tightness when moving the ujoint around in circles. Save thing with ball joints. Move then around if those are lose moving or can be jiggled around no good
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Old 07-15-2012, 02:10 PM
  #12769  
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Originally Posted by 94xjohio
Turn the outer part of able shafts and watch the u joint where they insert into the u joints cups. Should be no play between the u joint and cups. There should be no tightness when moving the ujoint around in circles. Save thing with ball joints. Move then around if those are lose moving or can be jiggled around no good
Will do. Thanx.
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:40 PM
  #12770  
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Quick question, the 8.25 non LS uses 75-90?
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Quick question, the 8.25 non LS uses 75-90?
Yes
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

Yes
Thanks and I should of also asked its 2qts needed?
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Thanks and I should of also asked its 2qts needed?
I always get 3..... Just cause then you have extra if needed or you spill some.... Lol
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:30 PM
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So very true lol specially when half the time we do stuff in the driveway or street
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

I always get 3..... Just cause then you have extra if needed or you spill some.... Lol
Get a suction gun, no spillage....
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:40 PM
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What t-case is the has the best performance overall? The 242 or 231? I know the 231 has a lot of aftermarket support, but which one would you use?
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by NorCalJeep
What t-case is the has the best performance overall? The 242 or 231? I know the 231 has a lot of aftermarket support, but which one would you use?
231j, overall best....twin stick Dana 300 hands down
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Trev1006
231j, overall best....twin stick Dana 300 hands down
Want to start a project soon, and get it done right. Thanks for the input.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NorCalJeep
What t-case is the has the best performance overall? The 242 or 231? I know the 231 has a lot of aftermarket support, but which one would you use?
You'll get 18 million opinions are this. They both have about te same range. I love my 231 to death and don't feel the need for full time 4wd plus the vicious couplers in the 242 can go but you'll see so many opinions on this
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by NorCalJeep
Want to start a project soon, and get it done right. Thanks for the input.
Then get the adapter and rebuild a d300 and twin stick it. You get 2 wd hi and lo, ability for front digs and the strongest case next to an atlas, which US basically a Dana 300 on roids. You will need to run a fsj Dana 44 up front because the 300 drops on the pass side. But if building a project do it hd and do it right.
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