fantic238

It will require some modifications.

fantic238

Did you remove the distributor? if yes you messed up the indexing of it. Double check fireing order and wires, if it doesn't work come back and i'll explain you the easy way to index the distributor.

lifeofchaoss

thanks Neilsenml....that will help alot i really do appreciate it

Militaryman4455

No reason to chance it... PM that kind of stuff

chattacuda

(ok, I put this in the wrong place; meant to put on what you did to the jeep this weekend; sorry) I deleted the pkost

bigins18

i found a dana 44 and a dana 60 out of a 79 f250 is this the right year for a full width conversion or no they are complete and only 150 for the pair 4.11 front and rear

2K1XJ

I just bought my jeep (2001 XJ sport 4.0 with 172k miles on it) a few months ago and have been experiencing a weird brake problem. The brakes grab something fierce. I took it to a local shop and they declared them to be in good condition (pads/discs & shoes/drums), although they have a slight warp (can be felt at very slow speeds - not noticeable at 10 mph or faster). Everything seems to be fine...except they grab badly sometimes. If I've been driving for a while they stop normally. If i'm cruisin through a parking lot at slow speeds, they lock up with slight pressure on the pedal. Any ideas would be appreciated.

nielsenml

To all who view this thread, I apologize for my post above which has been rightfully removed by the moderators. If you saw it then you know what i did. I was reckless with my "helpful link". I will be more diligent in the future.

pittman71

I'm thinking CPS??? Or could it be something else? I've searched and found similar issues, but not exactly the same.

Thanks in advance!

fantic238

The 1978-79 ford dana 44s aren't the best choice for an axle swap, the axle tube is shorter and at the knuckle end you have a cast iron outer tube that joins with the inner tube exactly where your spring perches will be.
Regarding the dana 60, no problem.

ChadAndrade

thank you for the reply this is my first forum.... yes i replaced my distributor with my old one from my old jeep how would i go about indexing it? and what is that i have checked the firing order at least 10 times thanks man

ChadAndrade

thank you for the reply this is my first forum.... yes i replaced my distributor with my old one from my old jeep how would i go about indexing it? and what is that i have checked the firing order at least 10 times thanks man


not sure if im doing this right

ol"blue

You have to set the timing marks to TDC and set the distributor where the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire on the cap.
And Welcome to CF.

ChadAndrade

also i was thinking that when i got the engine from the guy it came with the dist. so im pretty sure that one was indexed. it would not fire....then i swapped the dist. also when i unplugged the crank shaft sensor and then plugged it back in and it fired like twice the first time i tried it it was like a weak weak sputter but nothing big enough too start it.... thanks for your help

fantic238

OOOOKKKK... this is maybe one of the most difficult things to explain from behind a computer.
The distributor of a 4.0l is non adjustable, right, you can't turn the housing because it has a fix point.... but what about the shaft? That little gear it has on the bottom meshes with the camshaft and if you skip a couple of teeth... it won't start cuz of the rotor pointing in the wrong direction.
Indexing the distributor means meshing the gears so thet the rotor will point towards wire of cyl. 1 when the crankshaft is at TDC compression stroke.
Now comes the fun: how do i know wether the crankshaft is at TDC compression stroke instead of TDC exhaust stroke without looking at the valves?
Easy. Well not so easy but it can be done.
What you will need is a piece of hose that fits in the spark plug hole of cyl.1 and a compressor (in alternative you lungs).
Turn the crankshaft by hand at TDC and turn it back about 10° (counterclockwise).
Push air in the hose and if it doesn't come out from nowhere it means that both valves are closed and you are in compression stroke and you are fine.
If you hear it going in the exhaust manifold it means that the exhaust valve is open and you are in exhaust stroke. Bad. Turn the crankshaft one complete turn (360°) and you are fine.
Put the crankshaft back to TDC.
Now remove the distributor cap and look at the rotor. Is he pointing towards wire n°1? No? Then remove the distributor from the block and point the rotor towards wire 1.
You will need to orientate the oil pump gear manually with a big flat screwdriver.
When you mesh the gears, since they are helicoidal, the rotor will turn about another 1/8 turn, so you will need to turn 1/8 away from the n°1 wire before meshing the gears, so that the rotor points exactly towards wire 1 when the distributor is all the way down and seated.

It seems difficult but it isn't...