dilljeepo

Hey guys,
Thanks for your help with my sagging leaf spring problem, I now know enough to make an informed decision . Now for another question (but not the last!), I didn't get a manual with my Jeep ,the last owner said he didn't have it either, he bought it almost brand new. Is there anywhere on the internet I could find an owners manual for my Jeep for free? I've found some sites that have them but they want me to pay before I get it and I don't trust online payments. Thanks in advance for any answers anyone has, this forum has already really helped me so much!

Skipper

Ran a diagnostic test that showed errors PO 135;PO 141; PO 155; PO 161; PO 158; Changed all four O2 sensors. Same errors showed up after the change. Came here to ask why and was told that all four sensors going out at the same time was unlikely and that I should change the relays for the O2 sensors. Changed both relays and now I have the PO 135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Bank 1 Sensor 1 and the PO 141 oxygen heater bank 1 sensor 2 errors.

I talked to a mechanic and he said I might have to change the computer.

Will changing out the computer work or is there an easier/less expensive fix for this problem?

fantic238

Are the sensors heating? they should when the jeep is cold.
Anyway it isn't that important. Once the engine is hot it should work fine.
Ignore the CEL.

KY_Bob

I had a similar problem after changing my O2 sensors. The guy at Autozone cleared the errors and they never came back...I think you are probably ok.

Bustedknuckle

Check around on eBay, or Google search for the manual. More often then not, people will find them and sell on random sites, Amazon etc.

You could order from the dealer if need be as a last resort, but as usual expect to pay stealership prices.

Skipper

Seems as they are not heating. The Jeep runs a little rough at idle when the engine is cold. Twice now, in the last two months that i have been working on this, even when warm accelerating from a stop it sputtered and coughed and I had to floor it to get it to stop.

Heater bank one. Which one does this mean? Upper or lower pair of sensors?

It is telling me that two brand new sensor are out in one bank. So could one of the new relays be bad? Heater bank one? One relay for the uppers and one relay for the lowers right?

Replace which relay?

TrollHammer

Didn't want to start a new thread on this one since every other forum has one and it usually isn't helpful or pretty.

My OR jeep is needing an overhaul, in a sense. I figure it's going to be a nice winter project. Engine swap, fenders finished, about 33-35" tires (or whatever I can get for cheap), and axle work.

There's nothign wrong with the axles, other than they are stock gearing and open.

More to the point, the rear is a Chrysler 8.25 with 27 spline shafts (assumption based on year '93). From what I've read, it's a stout axle that has a reasonably good track record, and a growing support (I believe up to 4.88 gears so far, which is what I'd go for if I regear).

The debate is what I'm going to miss out on if I weld (lincoln lock) the 8.25. I have an 8.8 out of a 96 exploder (disc brakes, unknown diff and gearing) I can get ahold of for $50, and it appears that there is a good chance I can just plug it in, other than the spring mounts. I don't have a welder capable of doing anything reliable on a vehicle, so I'd have to have help welding on either axle, the difference being I could technically drive the thing to someone's house to get the 8.25 welded.

I practically have no budget for this thing and I'm trying to get it together cheap for next year.

Pro 8.25:
Have it, already matched gears to the front, and it's in it, only have to lock it

Con 8.25: Weakest shafts of all 8.25s, weaker than 8.8", drum brakes (that I've had no problems with yet)

Upgrades availible 8.25: gearing up through 4.88 or better, some lockers, 29 spline shafts (making it on par with a D44), disc brake conversion.

Pro 8.8: Cheap deal for what it is, Disk brakes, strongest axle thats the right width for the XJ. may or may not have a limited slip.

Con 8.8: A lot of fab work I'm not currently cabible of doing, WILL have to regear no matter what (unless something wierd happened), costs time and money.

Upgrades: Not many, mostly welding the tubes, gearing up into the 5s, a lot more locking options.

My ideal goal is 35" tires, and I wheel northwest trails (676, naches, etc). I just need to get the rig up to the point my cousin is comfortable with me being able to pull him out. I still need to get a winch (smittybilt, perhaps) and, like I said, tires, and I need to think about a cage at some point ($4 a foot if my cousin does it out of DOM).

As far as gearing, if I stick with my current axle, I can perhaps regear my np242 tcase and get the torque back I'd lose from the tires.

That's where I'm stuck at, though weighing it out. Part of me thinks I should jsut weld what I got and get the other axle, slowly building it up and put it in if I break the 8.25.

I'd like knowledgeable or expreinced input, please.

L-ucky-S-ix

4WD issue.
I am messing around with a custom center console. While the motor was off I shifted the 4wd lever to 4-wheel low. When I had to drive somewhere minutes later I had to shift it back to 2wd. It would budge. I ended up getting the car moving to shift it back and it clunked into 2wd. Ughh the feeling felt bad but not too abnormal.
I kept driving and my late stayed on "lock." I get to work and was turning semi-tightly and there was some squeal and I am worried that I have damaged something. The late stayed on the entire time.

fantic238

Damn. Wrote a nice log answer but somehow it got deleted...
Summarizing briefly i said this:
Forget about the 8.25 with locker and 35s.
You will need the 3.73&up carriers aswell to go to 4.88s.
Welding the planetary gears isn't a joke. You need a decent welder and some skills.
Get the 8.8 (what is it, ranger or explorer?), if you're lucky it has 31 spline shafts, otherwise 28 splines is still a tougher axle than the 8.25. According to the model they came with 3.73 or 4.11s, so no need to swap the carriers to go to 4.88s.
Welding a couple of spring perches on the tubes is something you can do with a household welder, and when you have the axle under the jeep it is only a matter of drive shaft, brake lines and shock mounts.
Winch and lockers are overrated when you have 35s and don't have to worry about how much gas you give.

fantic238

It was still in 4wd high. Don't worry it is normal on jeeps. Next time back up a couple of times or make a couple of tough turns on gravel to get back to 2wd.

TrollHammer

Sorry, looks like this thing got a little lenghty...

I hate it when that happens (and for me, it happens a lot!), I usually select the text before I submit and hit copy (crtl c) so it'a at least in the buffer incase something happens.

Anyway, thanks for the info! In all the other places I've looked no one said anything about changing carriers or anything, just said "gearing available up to (whatever was availible when they posted)" I'm not recalling what the 'carrier' is, is this what is referred to the third member, the part with the planetary gears and the ring bolts to, or is there another part in the 8.25 I've not seen in other axles?

My 'household welder' is crap, I'd still have to have help or barrow a welder, which isn't too hard, just gas and maybe a trailer if they won't let me take it. I have a POS harbor frieght welder that did maybe one good weld in it's life, and now won't do well on anything over sheetmetal. I'm not even sure I can get a good tack weld out of it! Oh, well, just have to figure that into the whole thing.

So are you saying I should try and sell the axle (probibly can't get more than $100 for it around here) to pay for regearing the front to match the 8.8? (if I understand, it's currently in a 96 Explorer, unknown trans.) I guess what my issue boils down to, is if I'm spending the money to regear the front, I'd want to regear the back to what I want for my end result, so I'm not buying a gear set that will just sit around after one season's use. I'm not sure if I have the money for both front and rear, though. What I was considering on the 8.25 was to weld it, run it as is, and if I need to regear do it at the t-case for low range (which I haven't researched yet for cost). If you know where to get r&p for cheaper than about $150 or so, please let me know!

Would there be similar issues with the front as well? upper limits of gearing or carrier replacements or such like that to hit 4.56 or 4.88? (other than the fact the axle is weaker than the rear and can't do as much, it does have to match the rear, though) If there is, but isn't to match say a 4.11 8.8, then my question is solved.

This was the only point of your reply I had an issue with. I tried to look up where you hail from to see if you've been around the trails I've been on to see what perspective you're coming from. These trails are either muddy (in the spring), or loose dirt and rocks (summer). I've seen rigs with 35-37" tires, locked rear, and a winch almost denied on some parts of the trail my cousin has no trouble with (fully locked on 35's). I'm sure there are many places that won't require as much as these, but I've got to go with about the same equipment others I off road with are equipped with, so I'm not holding them back or getting pulled out every ten minutes. Indeed, I've been given a sort of ultimatum to build equal to theirs or I'm not going along anymore (they don't seem to have faith in a stock XJ?)

From what I've learned over the time there are 3 things that affect traction: Tires, # of powered wheels, and articulation. The best is all three as good as they can be, but two are a must. You can get by without articulation if you have good tires and lockers, and you don't need lockers if you can keep 4 good tires on the ground. Poor tires (worn or stock) can be ok traction wise if you have good articulation and lockers. Considering the kind of stuff I do, I wouldn't find a rear locker a waste, and I'd hate to end up in a group where no one had a winch (or the only winch in the group fried, or was the one in trouble). We did ok with a tow strap on the last run, but on the run before that a winch was being run probibly 10-15% of the day I was there, due to mud and accidents (some ours, some others we were helping out with). I'd rather have one than not and wish I had.

Brotus7

Hi guys

I tried searching but to no avail.

I have an '01 XJ w/~140 on the clock. I got a CEL for the catyltic converter efficiency. Unfortunately, I have one of the XJ's blessed with 3 cats and the front two cost an arm and a leg to replace. I don't live in CA, but we do have emissions checks here and I won't pass with the CEL on. I plan on replacing the o2 sensors, but I don't feel like dropping $350 bucks on the front cats. I can weld in some universals, but has anyone had success going doing away with the 3 cats and going to a single cat and relocating the o2 sensors as necessary (2 before, 2 after if I have 4, but I may only have 3, I don't remember)?

I still get 22mpg on the highway, so I think the sensors are reading right, but the engine feels down on power and it has a slight rumble at idle.

Thanks

L-ucky-S-ix

Alright. I will try this on my way to work and I will edit this post if I have results.

Skipper

I have a 2000 Cherokee and I am having similar problems and can not figure out how to get the CEL to stay off.
I pulled errors PO 135,141,155,161 and 158. Changed all four, yes you have four, O2 sensors and both relays. Still got A PO135 and 141 errors.
I would love to put a header on too but how would you hookup the four O2 sensors to pass smog.... I do live in CA.
Let me know if you find anything out.

KY_Bob

My A/C cuts out on hard acceleration. It stills blows but does not make cold air any more. I have checked all vacuum hoses and replaced the compressor for another issue. It still cuts out. If i turn it off and wait/drive for another 30 minutes it will work just fine again. Is there a relay or something else that could be causing this?