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XJ Ask the Question Thread
07-30-2012, 12:50 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
i'm so confused why you would want to eliminate power steering - i see no benefits
07-30-2012, 01:05 PM
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by dukie564
i'm so confused why you would want to eliminate power steering - i see no benefits
07-30-2012, 02:59 PM
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
But serious question about my belt popping off....are the brackets and powersteering pumps different between renix and 91 to 95 ho motors? If so are there any visual clues so I know if maybe the pulley is just not aligned with the rest or something
07-30-2012, 03:39 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
PS pump bracketry is used to control belt tension, so i'm thinking you either have the belt too loose, or more likely too tight. Also make sure the locking bolts for the brackets are tightened after adjusting the tensioner bolt.
Old school tension method - grab the belt between your thumb and index finder the middle of it's longest run (should be the top horizontal run) and twist. You should be able to twist it ~90*, no more no less.
Old school tension method - grab the belt between your thumb and index finder the middle of it's longest run (should be the top horizontal run) and twist. You should be able to twist it ~90*, no more no less.
07-30-2012, 04:01 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Originally Posted by Jeepyjeepy
Does anyone have a guess as to why AutoZone sells a manual steering box when as I understand it all xj/MJs had powersteering. I figured out how to delete power steering pump so I wonder if this is a viable option
07-30-2012, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
PS pump bracketry is used to control belt tension, so i'm thinking you either have the belt too loose, or more likely too tight. Also make sure the locking bolts for the brackets are tightened after adjusting the tensioner bolt.
Old school tension method - grab the belt between your thumb and index finder the middle of it's longest run (should be the top horizontal run) and twist. You should be able to twist it ~90*, no more no less.
Old school tension method - grab the belt between your thumb and index finder the middle of it's longest run (should be the top horizontal run) and twist. You should be able to twist it ~90*, no more no less.
07-30-2012, 08:45 PM
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HEY Dro,
First about those inclines. I know when I pull the Allegheny Front which is about 5mi w/3 sections a 9% grade my '96,w/same drivetrain as yours,won't do it in OD. Sometimes I'll drop the shifter to 3 or when it down shifts itself I'll just work the throttle to keep it from up shifting. Plenty of power to pull it when not in OD though.
Other than what you've already done maintenance wise so far you may want to check/change the differentials and transfer case fluids depending on what they look like. Also you may want to have a trans flush done. I'm getting ready to have one done. They're not cheap ($100-$150) but I feel they're worth it. Grease or replace the steering components if needed. Of course there's the brake assembies. Air filter. Shocks and steering stabilizer? Serpentine belt. Might want to pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual. LOTS of stuff to get into if you feel like it.
First about those inclines. I know when I pull the Allegheny Front which is about 5mi w/3 sections a 9% grade my '96,w/same drivetrain as yours,won't do it in OD. Sometimes I'll drop the shifter to 3 or when it down shifts itself I'll just work the throttle to keep it from up shifting. Plenty of power to pull it when not in OD though.
Other than what you've already done maintenance wise so far you may want to check/change the differentials and transfer case fluids depending on what they look like. Also you may want to have a trans flush done. I'm getting ready to have one done. They're not cheap ($100-$150) but I feel they're worth it. Grease or replace the steering components if needed. Of course there's the brake assembies. Air filter. Shocks and steering stabilizer? Serpentine belt. Might want to pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual. LOTS of stuff to get into if you feel like it.
07-31-2012, 03:14 AM
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I read through a couple of threads here regarding the upper radiator hoses and now I'm a bit confused. The upper hose on my '99 XJ looks like the one in the picture. The arrow is pointing towards the kink in the hose where it comes off the water pump. Is this the correct hose for my 1999 XJ 4.0 with A/C?
Some have answered questions for me regarding my overheating issues. I was wondering if this kink could be part of my problem or not.
Thanks again guys for all of your help!
Some have answered questions for me regarding my overheating issues. I was wondering if this kink could be part of my problem or not.
Thanks again guys for all of your help!
Last edited by Dro; 07-31-2012 at 03:15 AM. Reason: Forgot the picture
07-31-2012, 07:38 AM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Originally Posted by Jeepyjeepy
Yes all bolts were retightened. I will double check belt tension again. But I was asking because even a perfectly tensioned belt will pop off if the pulleys are not properly aligned correct?
07-31-2012, 09:06 AM
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Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I have a 91 xj ho with a Dana 30 front end and a Dana 35c rear end. I just recently upgraded my gears from a 3:55 to 3:73 ratio. I have already broke an axle shaft on the rear. The good ole Dana turdyfive. Anyways... I'm thinking about the Chrysler 8.25 swap. If I do this swap do I have to replace the front end as well? And what gears come in the 8.25s? Will my 3:73s fit in it? What all is needed for this swap, ect.?
07-31-2012, 09:33 AM
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Water Pump Installation! Help Please!
I'm wondering how easy it will be for me to replace my wife's 2005 Grand Cherokee Laredo 2x4 3.7 liter, water pump.
I bought a new water pump w/ gaskets and hardware included from Bosch and I'd rather not have to pay someone to put it in if I can find a free manual or guide online...
Any help would be appreciated!
I bought a new water pump w/ gaskets and hardware included from Bosch and I'd rather not have to pay someone to put it in if I can find a free manual or guide online...
Any help would be appreciated!
07-31-2012, 09:47 AM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Originally Posted by LawDog9
I have a 91 xj ho with a Dana 30 front end and a Dana 35c rear end. I just recently upgraded my gears from a 3:55 to 3:73 ratio. I have already broke an axle shaft on the rear. The good ole Dana turdyfive. Anyways... I'm thinking about the Chrysler 8.25 swap. If I do this swap do I have to replace the front end as well? And what gears come in the 8.25s? Will my 3:73s fit in it? What all is needed for this swap, ect.?
07-31-2012, 09:58 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
I read through a couple of threads here regarding the upper radiator hoses and now I'm a bit confused. The upper hose on my '99 XJ looks like the one in the picture. The arrow is pointing towards the kink in the hose where it comes off the water pump. Is this the correct hose for my 1999 XJ 4.0 with A/C?
Some have answered questions for me regarding my overheating issues. I was wondering if this kink could be part of my problem or not.
Thanks again guys for all of your help!
Some have answered questions for me regarding my overheating issues. I was wondering if this kink could be part of my problem or not.
Thanks again guys for all of your help!
My first step would be to replace the radiator cap. I recommend getting this particular part from a dealer so you know it's correct and will seal.
07-31-2012, 09:58 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠