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Old 08-16-2012, 12:38 PM
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Its what i thought it was. Just in case someone else needs to know...

"I did this on my 97 and it was completely plug and play. The wires for the heated part are already in the plug on the door harness. Just unplug and remove the non heated mirrors, the bolt on the heated mirrors and plug in. They activate with the rear defroster switch, so there's nothing else to add besides the mirrors."

Found that here.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...eat-xj-119245/
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Its what i thought it was. Just in case someone else needs to know...

"I did this on my 97 and it was completely plug and play. The wires for the heated part are already in the plug on the door harness. Just unplug and remove the non heated mirrors, the bolt on the heated mirrors and plug in. They activate with the rear defroster switch, so there's nothing else to add besides the mirrors."

Found that here.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...eat-xj-119245/
Awesome
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:33 PM
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how do you make your own thread
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:28 PM
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HELP!!


On a 93 grand cherokee laredo v6, the car cranks up after a full turn then a half, what would that be? Also the car is slow on take offs and it takes up to 3,000 rpms to shift to 2nd gear, what could that be also?
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SigFig
HELP!!


On a 93 grand cherokee laredo v6, the car cranks up after a full turn then a half, what would that be? Also the car is slow on take offs and it takes up to 3,000 rpms to shift to 2nd gear, what could that be also?
does it go into all gears?
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
It looks like the wire harness plugs into the same one. But how does the heat work? Does it come on when I hit rear defroster button or what? I didn't see a mirror defrost button...
Normally heated mirrors operate when the rear window defroster is working.
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:07 PM
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I really can't tell, it has rough shifts, its takes from a start to get up to 3,000 rpms to shift then again to next gear. If i let off the gas, the car will shift. It hard getting up to 45 miles from a start, sometimes when driving it will stay at a certain mph until i press the gas real hard and it revs up
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SigFig
I really can't tell, it has rough shifts, its takes from a start to get up to 3,000 rpms to shift then again to next gear. If i let off the gas, the car will shift. It hard getting up to 45 miles from a start, sometimes when driving it will stay at a certain mph until i press the gas real hard and it revs up
ok i had a 92 xj laredo doing simular to that...sold it and later learned it was the kick down cable from the throttle to the transmiaaion. to test that you open the throttle all the way from under the hood, with the car off, and feel for tension on the kickdown cable. it should feel like a guitar string
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:19 PM
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are there any engine lights on
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:28 PM
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I'm prepping to replace my track bar. Picked up a new one today (Moog #DS1235). I reviewed the Removal/Installation procedure in my FSM which makes it sound like an easy enough task. The only "special" tool required is a universal puller. What (if any) pitfalls may I anticipate and/or prevent - and how?
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SigFig
I really can't tell, it has rough shifts, its takes from a start to get up to 3,000 rpms to shift then again to next gear. If i let off the gas, the car will shift. It hard getting up to 45 miles from a start, sometimes when driving it will stay at a certain mph until i press the gas real hard and it revs up
The first thing you are going to want to do is have someone with a scan tool see if any fault codes are stored in the transmission control module. Your trans is electronically controlled by a module and most problems will store a fault code. It could be a solenoid, etc

If there are no codes stored it could be something like a throttle position sensor, or the throttle valve cable is adjusted incorrectly, hanging up, or damaged. Either of these things will cause delayed or hard shifting.

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Old 08-16-2012, 07:28 PM
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"...sometimes when driving it will stay at a certain mph until i press the gas real hard and it revs up".

SigFig, Your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) plays a large part in automatic transmission shift-control. Search for threads on how-to test the TPS. You may find that the TPS is failing, but has not yet failed "hard" enough to throw a code.

Cleaning your throttle body is also a simple and effective trick for diagnosing issues like this...

Last edited by Cherryokee; 08-16-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:03 PM
  #13513  
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thanks, i'm get this to my mechanic as he and anyone else in this town doesn't deal with OBD1 which their machines are too advance for a 96' and later

Last edited by SigFig; 08-16-2012 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:05 PM
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About scanning the TCU, do you have to have an OBD1 scanner to do that? Also my check engine light is not on and when I do the on,off,on,off,on trick to get my engine light to flash a code, it only shows what it suppose to show, 55 which means test is complete
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:13 PM
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Is there any way to put a 231j tcase on a 2wd aw4 or does the whole tranny have to be swapped out?
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